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I bought these as a set from a car, all working etc. I'm after a bit of help with what goes where really.
These are the senders:
My understanding is;
1. Boost gauge sender, t-piece into a boost hose and then this has an electrical connection to the gauge.
2. Looks like a sump plug with wires. Is this supposed to replace the sump plug and is it the oil temp sender?
3. Must be the oil pressure sender if the other one is temp. Looks like the stock sensor is mounted to the side of it. But where does it plug in? What connects to the tab coming out of it at the very bottom of the picture and what does the really wide threaded connector at the top of the braided hose connect to?
I have got this pile of wiring also:
It looks like there is a bunch of white plugs, a black one and a blue one. I think there's a separate power cable for each gauge. Can they not be daisy chained instead of each needing its own power?
Boost is as you've said, unless you have an unused blanked off nipple on the inlet manifold, as on late classics? in which case, use that.
The other two are oil pressure, which is the one with the braided hose. The end furthest from the camera goes where the present oil pressure light switch is. The oil pressure light switch is the bit closest to the camera, with one terminal. The other part of that is the oil pressure sender which goes to gauge.
The third sendert is oil temperature, it's the one screwed into a large brass adaptor. That goes into the tappings on top of cylinder three, driver's side, to the rear of the egine. Look down in front of turbo and intercooler and there is a blanking plug on top of the engine, it needsa long decent 8mm Allenk key to remove it. The adaptor goes in there.
DO NOT be tempted to fit sandwich plate or oil drain plug replacement senders, the places I've given you are the BEST places where the gauges give the most accurate readings.
Thank you both. I'll go have a look at that link now Don
Alcazar, that's great mate. Really helpful. I had a vague idea as I've said but you've clarified things exactly as I'd hoped someone would. The thing I was really confused about was the tab sticking out of the oil pressure light switch. Wasn't sure if something from the supplied loom was meant to fit that or something already on the car
Mine has similar senders (Defi) and I simply unscrewed the oil pressure switch and replaced it with the oil pressure sender, no T-piece. The switch is on a shelf in my garage, as it's redundant once the gauge is in place, and is useless anyway.
Depends on the car. There's one low down blanked by a grommet on the driver's side, and one the same on the passenger side, but on aircon cars, the aircon pipes pass through it.
Mine doesn't have aircon, so I made a cross shaped slit with a Stanley knife in that one, about 10mm across, poked a piece of stiff wire through from under the bonnet, pulled carpet and trim back, and pulled the wires through the passenger side one. It's not easy to see, hence the wire, which you can feel.
Hint: do the wires all at the same time, bundle and tape to the stiff wire, protecting the delicate small connectors on the end.
Hint: my piece of stiff wire was an old coathanger.
Hint: DO fasten, zip-tie, or tape, wiring well clear of hot parts like exhaust, turbo etc.
Hint, give yourself enough under the dash to allow the pod to be removed for maintenance etc if necessary. If I had my time again, the sender wires would have been wrapped in spiral wrap. To keep them all together.
No, no, the wires will fit through there too. It's just a blanking grommet on mine, but you can use it with aircon in place. DO remember to tape all the little white connectors one behid the other and cover them with tape to protect them when pulling through, or you'll damage them.
You can JUST make out the blanking plug looking down onto the engine in front of the intercooler, although I removed the intercooler for better access.
The plug is about 25mm diameter, flat with an 8mm hex hole in it, coloured alloy.
I bought a decent long 8mm Allen key, when it first turned the blamking plug, it made such a crack I thought I'd broken something. Not so.
The new adaptor went in by screwing a thick pen barrel lightly where the sender will go, to use to locate the adaptor in it's threads and start it turning. Don't forget some PTFE tape but not too much. Once it's in the threads, it can be done up with a socket and extension, after unscrewing the pen barrel.
Put a bit more tape round the sender before screwing it into place, don't overtighten senders.
The sender looks to be OK for PTFE tape but are you suggesting I put some around the thick gold sump plug style bolt? One layer slightly overlapping OK?
Do I need to remove the inlet for any of this or just the intercooler?
This pic here seems to be using the same setup I will be for the oil pressure:
Am I going to need to remove the alternator to fit that?
I'd use one layer of PTFE tape wrapped over itself once, on both the adaptor and the sender. Just to seal the threads.
You don't need the manifold off, the intercooler makes it easier. Use my trick for reach for the adaptor to start it in the threads.
IIRC, and it's some years since I did mine, I loosened the alternator fixings, and swung it out of the way, took the belt off I THINK for better access.
On mine, the alternator was fitted with a bolt that adjusted belt tension. I put some white paint, (TipEx will do) on the bolt to mark where it was before unscrewing it.
Only problem is, with ignition on but engine not running, the oil pressure flashes and beeps at me. Is this normal? All stops and seems to be operating normally when the engine is running.
Only problem is, with ignition on but engine not running, the oil pressure flashes and beeps at me. Is this normal? All stops and seems to be operating normally when the engine is running.
Cheers, thought as much. One other thing I've noticed, they don't dim when the lights are turned on. Any ideas? Used the wiring as per the annotations on the back of the clock.
i used to have Prosports back in my old Classic...i took them to an auto electrician and he couldn't get them to dim either..They were so bright at night that they were blinding and distracting..So much so, that i used to place a T shirt over the console...If the gauges were low down it wouldn't be as bad but I don't think I'd fit Prosports again.
On mine they only dimmed when I moved the instrument dimmer from full bright down one notch, then they did dim, or rather went from the white light to the red. My later ones don't have the white, and again, the red comes on with lights on, only when I move the dimmer.
Prosport gauge fitting, help needed
