Cheers Bonesetter! Good stuff there.
Bonesetter's camber and toe settings, front and rear for the Classic are great for "fast road". Though I personally prefer a bit of toe-in in the rear, rather than toe out. Basically, as the rear suspension compresses on a GC and GD chassis, the wheels toe-out. If you already have static toe out then under compression (when cornering), your outside wheel will have even more toe out and make it very tail happy and less stable. So under roll compression I like to have the outside rear wheel be at zero toe, so that necessitates a bit of toe-in static.
The settings posted for the WRX would actually make a decent track setting, depending on the tires. Typical semi slick tires like A048s, R888's like a minimum of -2.5 deg camber up front (depending on how stiff you suspension is and how wide the tire is). Its a good starting point, though I've seen it go as high as -4 on some people's cars. As a rule of thumb for track or aggressive road use
, I usually go about .5 deg less camber in the rear than in the front if you want the rear to be a bit more active. So if you have -2.5 up front, set the rear at -2. In the end, you'll have to take tire temps at the track to really optimize that alignment. If you want a more stable rear end (say for the road), then go equal on rear camber to front or about .25 more in the rear.
Caster is really important on the GC/GD chassis. Basically you can't have enough. So do whatever you can to get more. it makes a huge difference in front end grip. So ALK or Caster bush, rotated camber plates, etc. For you BC guys with camber plates, ideally I would look into rotating (and flipping) your camber plates so you can get more caster and camber. They would look like this:
Here's a good thread about it:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1896023
If you have alu wishbones, I would do the "free caster mod" as well. Basically you flip the rear pin around and you get about .5 deg more caster that way for free!
Here's an interesting method to get even more!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1900666
Here you can see how the pin normally sits:
torque specs:
With the pin flipped 180 deg and he added a plate for even more caster:
As far as toe and tire wear goes, its completely dependent on usage. I've had -2.5 camber and 3mm toe out and got even tire wear, but I drove like a bat out of hell. When I was driving like a granny on that setting, I started to wear the insides. Backed off my camber to -1.5 and zero toe and got even tire wear in granny mode. Then started driving like a crazy man again and got outside edge tire wear! lol Its all about compromise for your given driving conditions/needs.
You can use Bonesetters Classic geometry specs up top for a newage too. Caster will be different but the specs you want to change toe and camber, you can use his Classic settings for a GD/GG for fast road.
Note that rear camber is not adjustable without camber bolts with most struts. However, the BCs and KW's are, I believe slotted a bit in the rear. So that means there is a degree of adjustability by loosening the bolts and pulling the tire out or shoving it in. Make sure you alignment guy knows that.