96 (old shape)wrx missing under load/boost???
#1
96 (old shape)wrx missing under load/boost???
Hi Guys
My scoob had been going great untill the left front(as you look at engine bay)Coil pack failed!
It wasnt running at all on this cylinder & for a few days i had to run it in and out of work untill i sorced a new coil pack!
Thought everything was fine untill i went to give it some & its like the over boost cuts & it hits a wall & misses & jerks all over the shop!
If i let the boost build gently it seems fine???
Was wondering if the fact the car wasnt running on that cylinder could have damaged the lamda sensor or cat?
changed the plugs & robed the airflow meater of a mates wrx & still the same!
I also left the batery disconected over night to reset the ECU but still the same!
Any tips or ideas would be great!
Cheers Andy
My scoob had been going great untill the left front(as you look at engine bay)Coil pack failed!
It wasnt running at all on this cylinder & for a few days i had to run it in and out of work untill i sorced a new coil pack!
Thought everything was fine untill i went to give it some & its like the over boost cuts & it hits a wall & misses & jerks all over the shop!
If i let the boost build gently it seems fine???
Was wondering if the fact the car wasnt running on that cylinder could have damaged the lamda sensor or cat?
changed the plugs & robed the airflow meater of a mates wrx & still the same!
I also left the batery disconected over night to reset the ECU but still the same!
Any tips or ideas would be great!
Cheers Andy
#2
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1. Check ECU fault codes for sensor failures although I think it would just run rough if MAF failure. Lambda failure can result in it either running too lean or too rich depending on your ECU, either way you may not actually notice any difference in running without the lambda. The cel light will light up on new age's.
2. Clean out the boost solenoid with either brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
3. Check all the plug leads, one of mine had a bad connection (worn contact) and resulted in what you describe.
2. Clean out the boost solenoid with either brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
3. Check all the plug leads, one of mine had a bad connection (worn contact) and resulted in what you describe.
Last edited by Journeyman; 19 January 2006 at 02:32 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by Journeyman
1. Check ECU fault codes for sensor failures although I think it would just run rough if MAF failure. Lambda failure can result in it either running too lean or too rich depending on your ECU, either way you may not actually notice any difference in running without the lambda. The cel light will light up on new age's.
2. Clean out the boost solenoid with either brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
3. Check all the plug leads, one of mine had a bad connection (worn contact) and resulted in what you describe.
2. Clean out the boost solenoid with either brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
3. Check all the plug leads, one of mine had a bad connection (worn contact) and resulted in what you describe.
First one whats a MAF?
what does the boost soleinoid look like & where would i find it?
Also it has a coil pack for each plug (I was going to steel all of my mates off his on saterday if i cant sus this out!)
Also fault code's! is the only way i can check by pluging in to subaru's hardware?
Cheers for the input!
Andy
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My Money is definately going on the coil packs, mine done this, ran fine if driven gently, but minute it was on boost, or under load it miss fired.
New coil packs all round sorted it.
New coil packs all round sorted it.
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#9
Originally Posted by jonny gav
agree with alex here, if one coil was knackered you can bet the rest of them will be on the way out too!
best to replace them all.
best to replace them all.
Already changed the MAF it turns out!(looked like a airflowmetter to me)
Cheers Andy
#12
Originally Posted by mneame
have you been playing with the actuator at all? if set up for too much boost it can do the same but from what you described money's on coil packs for me.
No was totaly fine untill the one coil pack failed & it wasnt fireing at all on that cylinder!
Replaced the coil & it thought it was fine!Untill i went up the road in it that was!
Will try the rest of the coils if mate brings his scoob to work tomorrow!
Cheers for the help guys ill let you know how i get on!
Andy
#13
Bloody CAR!!!!!!!
Ok today i
cleaned boost control solenoid then tried=THE SAME
got my mate to lend me his scooby!
Changed boost control valve=THE SAME
Changed the coil packs=THE SAME
Now is there a way to disconect the over boost as it feels very similar to when a over boost cuts in on a car!
Also the boost control valve to me just looks like a ECU controled BLEED VALVE!
If this is the case i should be able to reduce the boost to just actuator presure by joining the two pipes together!(or is this the BOOST CUT OFF SYSTEM??)
Does anyone know what the boost presure is straight of the actuator on a standerd car & does it rise much via the ecu?
Do the over boost's play up on scoobys??
Im really loosing it over this car !
Any more help will be greatly appreciated!
Cheers Andy
Ok today i
cleaned boost control solenoid then tried=THE SAME
got my mate to lend me his scooby!
Changed boost control valve=THE SAME
Changed the coil packs=THE SAME
Now is there a way to disconect the over boost as it feels very similar to when a over boost cuts in on a car!
Also the boost control valve to me just looks like a ECU controled BLEED VALVE!
If this is the case i should be able to reduce the boost to just actuator presure by joining the two pipes together!(or is this the BOOST CUT OFF SYSTEM??)
Does anyone know what the boost presure is straight of the actuator on a standerd car & does it rise much via the ecu?
Do the over boost's play up on scoobys??
Im really loosing it over this car !
Any more help will be greatly appreciated!
Cheers Andy
Last edited by Andykat; 23 January 2006 at 09:36 PM.
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this may or may not work...
Why don't you close all the windows, get out, get back in, open the windows again, and maybe it'll work
this is the same advice i get from microsoft and pc world, even my isp's techys say much the same thing
Why don't you close all the windows, get out, get back in, open the windows again, and maybe it'll work
this is the same advice i get from microsoft and pc world, even my isp's techys say much the same thing
#17
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do you have any way of reading the boost?
if so it should be around 11psi, if its hitting 15psi + you will be getting fuel cut
a manual boost controller like a dawes device or a gbe valve will let you set the boost at what you want.
if you run a pipe from the snail outlet to the actuator it should read 7psi approx
if so it should be around 11psi, if its hitting 15psi + you will be getting fuel cut
a manual boost controller like a dawes device or a gbe valve will let you set the boost at what you want.
if you run a pipe from the snail outlet to the actuator it should read 7psi approx
#18
Originally Posted by jonny gav
do you have any way of reading the boost?
if so it should be around 11psi, if its hitting 15psi + you will be getting fuel cut
a manual boost controller like a dawes device or a gbe valve will let you set the boost at what you want.
if you run a pipe from the snail outlet to the actuator it should read 7psi approx
if so it should be around 11psi, if its hitting 15psi + you will be getting fuel cut
a manual boost controller like a dawes device or a gbe valve will let you set the boost at what you want.
if you run a pipe from the snail outlet to the actuator it should read 7psi approx
Ill link the pipes & try it up the road tomorrow! may beable to blag a boost valve off the garage next door!
Oh on another note!
There was a small bras insert in the pipe??with a restrictive sized hole in it i may remove this tomorrow & try as it looks to me like it would take the actautor longer to open with this fitted giving higher boost!
Cheers for your help!
Andy
#19
Originally Posted by ||VaNDaL||
this may or may not work...
Why don't you close all the windows, get out, get back in, open the windows again, and maybe it'll work
this is the same advice i get from microsoft and pc world, even my isp's techys say much the same thing
Why don't you close all the windows, get out, get back in, open the windows again, and maybe it'll work
this is the same advice i get from microsoft and pc world, even my isp's techys say much the same thing
#20
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I had exactly the same problem on my 95 turbo a few years back which turned out to be the plugs breaking down. A new set of Genuine Scooby plugs and the fault was gone. (Turned out someone had fitted aftermarket plugs which weren't up to the job)
I don't know how the coil packs fail but could it have stuffed a plug or 2?
Andy
I don't know how the coil packs fail but could it have stuffed a plug or 2?
Andy
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I take it you have done usual and disconnected battery for just over an hour to reset ecu, checked leads,made sure earth connections to engine good etc??
could be fuel cut but this would normally feel like the engine just dies momentarily feeling like the brakes just went on full (disturbing if you dont know)
if not dont take too much off or mod summat that aint working to start with you will just compound the problem
if not try my earlier post it works on my pc
could be fuel cut but this would normally feel like the engine just dies momentarily feeling like the brakes just went on full (disturbing if you dont know)
if not dont take too much off or mod summat that aint working to start with you will just compound the problem
if not try my earlier post it works on my pc
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If you was running the car for a few days on 3 cylinders then the chances are that the plug that wsnt firing is all fouled up. I would personally check the conditions of the plugs.
#23
Hi guys
First thing i did was change the plugs!
Thought along the same lines!
And its VERY much like your hitting a wall ,very violent which is why i think im hitting a fuel cut!
Andy
First thing i did was change the plugs!
Thought along the same lines!
And its VERY much like your hitting a wall ,very violent which is why i think im hitting a fuel cut!
Andy
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silly question is fuel in tank low??
fuel cut just seems more prevailent when fuel below 1/4 tank or on sharp left/right movement
if search was working this has been discussed before about 6-9 months ago and longer
if all else fails look at replacing with aftermarket fuel cut defender
fuel cut just seems more prevailent when fuel below 1/4 tank or on sharp left/right movement
if search was working this has been discussed before about 6-9 months ago and longer
if all else fails look at replacing with aftermarket fuel cut defender
#26
Originally Posted by ||VaNDaL||
silly question is fuel in tank low??
fuel cut just seems more prevailent when fuel below 1/4 tank or on sharp left/right movement
if search was working this has been discussed before about 6-9 months ago and longer
if all else fails look at replacing with aftermarket fuel cut defender
fuel cut just seems more prevailent when fuel below 1/4 tank or on sharp left/right movement
if search was working this has been discussed before about 6-9 months ago and longer
if all else fails look at replacing with aftermarket fuel cut defender
Is there a way of disconeting the fuel cut of as i only want to replace the faulty part??
Andy