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cant disconnect crank sensor..........another way of not starting needed

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Old 26 January 2019, 01:44 PM
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the shreksta
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Default cant disconnect crank sensor..........another way of not starting needed

so my car has been sitting for around 6 weeks and its now time to get her started so i can use her again, my hands are that of king-kongs and i cannot get them in to the crank sensor to unplug it so i can build up the oil pressure. is there another way of not starting the car but turning it over?

a fuse perhaps or another sensor?

its a hawk 2007 sti

cheers
Old 26 January 2019, 01:55 PM
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cant you just ask someone else to unplug it for ya
Old 26 January 2019, 01:56 PM
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the shreksta
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
cant you just ask someone else to unplug it for ya
no
Old 26 January 2019, 02:28 PM
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Henrik
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I have the same problem.

I just take the alternator off now. You don't have to take it off fully either, just enough to be able to rotate it up to the right.

Basically, the method is:

Get a 12mm socket.
slacken off the bolts on the top right a turn or two.
Slacken the belt off (vertical bolt head on left).
Undo the bolt that goes horizontally on the left hand side, that locks the alternator to the tensioner you've just slackened off.
​​​​​​rotate alternator up to the right.

Should have enough space now.

Sounds like a lot of work, but it takes literally a minute when you've done it once, and it's better than swearing at the crank sensor.
Old 26 January 2019, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Henrik
I have the same problem.

I just take the alternator off now. You don't have to take it off fully either, just enough to be able to rotate it up to the right.

Basically, the method is:

Get a 12mm socket.
slacken off the bolts on the top right a turn or two.
Slacken the belt off (vertical bolt head on left).
Undo the bolt that goes horizontally on the left hand side, that locks the alternator to the tensioner you've just slackened off.
​​​​​​rotate alternator up to the right.

Should have enough space now.

Sounds like a lot of work, but it takes literally a minute when you've done it once, and it's better than swearing at the crank sensor.
thanks for that buddy, i should have also said that ive recently dislocated my shoulder and broke my shoulder blade along with other injuries so im living life with my left hand and im right handed so ideally looking for a easier option. if there isnt one then will try this
Old 26 January 2019, 02:38 PM
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ZANY
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6 weeks I would just turn the key pal unless it’s been forged up etc I’ve started mine up after 8 to 12 weeks I just put the negative terminal back on and start her up
Old 26 January 2019, 02:39 PM
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the shreksta
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Originally Posted by ZANY
6 weeks I would just turn the key pal unless it’s been forged up etc I’ve started mine up after 8 to 12 weeks I just put the negative terminal back on and start her up
what difference would it make if its forged or not mate?

mine has done 11k since forged build/acl bearings/mahle pistons etc
Old 26 January 2019, 02:46 PM
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ZANY
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What oil in there mate?

im running 10/50 cfs millers so nicely coated allready so no probs

dont know if it’s same for the forged engines just saying as mine isn’t

in my ownership only time I take that plug off is when I change oil
Old 26 January 2019, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
what difference would it make if its forged or not mate?

mine has done 11k since forged build/acl bearings/mahle pistons etc
Just start it boss it'll be 100% no revs till the oil circulates. Filter and all will be full already.
Old 26 January 2019, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ZANY
What oil in there mate?

im running 10/50 cfs millers so nicely coated allready so no probs

dont know if it’s same for the forged engines just saying as mine isn’t

in my ownership only time I take that plug off is when I change oil
fuchs 10/50 or 15/50 i cant remember

may even be 10/60

Last edited by the shreksta; 26 January 2019 at 02:58 PM.
Old 26 January 2019, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1509joe
Just start it boss it'll be 100% no revs till the oil circulates. Filter and all will be full already.
ok will give it a shot
Old 26 January 2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
ok will give it a shot
Old 26 January 2019, 04:14 PM
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I never bother to disconnect the crank sensor, far easier to remove the fuel pump fuse.
Old 26 January 2019, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
fuchs 10/50 or 15/50 i cant remember

may even be 10/60
it’ll be right mate nice thick oil in there
as above just crank it over and idle temp up and take it easy on her let all the oils warp arm up before applying any boost

youll know most of that jargon anywY
Old 26 January 2019, 05:35 PM
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If it's running the std ecu (even when mapped). Then just put throttle to the floor and then crank. It won't start as it cuts the fuel. All hawk onwardsdo this.

edit: it was the late JGM who told me about this. First time doing it I was still a bit nervous but works 100%.

Last edited by Gambit; 26 January 2019 at 05:39 PM.
Old 26 January 2019, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbovin
I never bother to disconnect the crank sensor, far easier to remove the fuel pump fuse.
which one is that on a 2007 hawk?
Old 26 January 2019, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
If it's running the std ecu (even when mapped). Then just put throttle to the floor and then crank. It won't start as it cuts the fuel. All hawk onwardsdo this.

edit: it was the late JGM who told me about this. First time doing it I was still a bit nervous but works 100%.
lol is that a wind up or you being serious?
Old 26 January 2019, 06:58 PM
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so i went out armed with my new enigma lithium ion battery booster pack,connected it up and nothing............not even 1 revolution. i feel this battery booster pack may have been a waste of money. it was showing 4 lights (full power) so i assumed it would be ok. i have stuck it on charge over night and will try again 2moro, if it doesnt work then im ****ing returning it and going with old fashioned jump leads.
Old 26 January 2019, 07:01 PM
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Now i'm not being smart here lol but did you turn it on. Alot of them will read fully charged on test but they've still got a little switch on them to turn it on.
Old 26 January 2019, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
lol is that a wind up or you being serious?
no it's not a wind up, it's 100% true.
Old 26 January 2019, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1509joe
Now i'm not being smart here lol but did you turn it on. Alot of them will read fully charged on test but they've still got a little switch on them to turn it on.
yes there is a little button which i pressed which showed the 4 lights/12v indicator
Old 26 January 2019, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
no it's not a wind up, it's 100% true.
ok...................so foot to the floor and just crank for how long?
Old 26 January 2019, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
ok...................so foot to the floor and just crank for how long?
you can crank for as long as you like it won't start while throttle is on the floor.bn

For me after an oil change, or if its been parked up a good few weeks I'll just give it about 5-10sec cranking just to get oil moving. Then ignition off, foot of throttle, and start as normal.

but if you're battery is weak it might not be best idea

if I was on the laptop id dig out the jgm post to confirm but I'm on the phone and search is crap on mobile site
Old 26 January 2019, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
you can crank for as long as you like it won't start while throttle is on the floor.bn

For me after an oil change, or if its been parked up a good few weeks I'll just give it about 5-10sec cranking just to get oil moving. Then ignition off, foot of throttle, and start as normal.

but if you're battery is weak it might not be best idea

if I was on the laptop id dig out the jgm post to confirm but I'm on the phone and search is crap on mobile site
my battery isnt weak.............its dead as a dodo
Old 26 January 2019, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
my battery isnt weak.............its dead as a dodo
that won't help then

and one last double check, you said it a hawk yeah? It's not a spec C or anything is it? Only drive by wire cars can do the throttle floor crank. If it's a cable throttle then it won't work
Old 26 January 2019, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
that won't help then

and one last double check, you said it a hawk yeah? It's not a spec C or anything is it? Only drive by wire cars can do the throttle floor crank. If it's a cable throttle then it won't work
just a uk hawk 2.5 sti thats been mapped/engine built etc.

so shall i forget the foot to the floor then whilst my battery is dead?
Old 26 January 2019, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
just a uk hawk 2.5 sti thats been mapped/engine built etc.

so shall i forget the foot to the floor then whilst my battery is dead?
It'll sap the remaining life out of weak battery doing extended cranking
Old 26 January 2019, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
It'll sap the remaining life out of weak battery doing extended cranking
as soon as ive got it started it will be going on charge on my new battery conditioner for a week or so
Old 26 January 2019, 08:14 PM
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Usually a dead battery won't hold charge for as long after being recharged, and with weather getting colder will just take more out of it. Be as handy getting a new battery for £50odds you can pick up a bosch s4 battery. Cheaper again if you know someone in the trade. Then leaving the conditioner on the new one.
Old 26 January 2019, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit
Usually a dead battery won't hold charge for as long after being recharged, and with weather getting colder will just take more out of it. Be as handy getting a new battery for £50odds you can pick up a bosch s4 battery. Cheaper again if you know someone in the trade. Then leaving the conditioner on the new one.
yeah maybe, this battery is only 6 months old so will take a gamble with it i think.


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