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came out to the impreza this morning @ 2am for work and there was a good frost so i scrapped the front window and climbed inside and noticed the inside was frozen. i have an asbo exhaust so sitting there on tick over @ 2 am is a big no no, i had to use the heat from my hands to clear a spy hole so i could drive off the estate and then let it tick over and defrost.
how do i stop this happening? i have no wet carpets/split door seals etc and my pollen filter is around 6 months old.
It wont stop the problem but as a temp fix til you get to the real issue, you could use little reusable (microwaved) dehumidifier bags. i had these in my golf.
Replace cabin filter, and grab the wifes tights . . . and chop off one foot, fill with cat litter, tie up the open end and stick under seat, this will absorb the moisture,
When cabin filters are dirty I get a misty screen.
Don't use the Recirculate position on the heating system - damp air stays in the car. Use your Aircon - it actually dries the air out. Use a de-humidifer pack from Poundland/B&M etc to absorb the moisture that is there already.
A hot water bottle on the dash 10 mins before you leave also does the trick, keeps the screen clear without annoying the neighbours. Fortunately all my neighbours moved out when I moved in :-)
Don't have a problem now since I got a Heated Front Windscreen from Ricky Evans Motorsport for my Hawkeye.! Start the car, press the button and wait 30 seconds and all clear, inside and out. Lovely! Wiring it was a ******* tough. Used a DCCD Auto/Manual switch in the blank where the headlight leveler would go. A pair of Citroen rear window relays on a custom fuse block behind the glovebox and a home made loom and job's a good'un!
Don't have a problem now since I got a Heated Front Windscreen from Ricky Evans Motorsport for my Hawkeye.! Start the car, press the button and wait 30 seconds and all clear, inside and out. Lovely! Wiring it was a ******* tough. Used a DCCD Auto/Manual switch in the blank where the headlight leveler would go. A pair of Citroen rear window relays on a custom fuse block behind the glovebox and a home made loom and job's a good'un!
Any chance you've got some sort of diagram or pictures of the wiring you did for this? I've been seriously considering one of these. Also, did you replace any of the windscreen fixings/mouldings/rubbers and, if so, what with?
Could be a leaking heater matrix but less likely or a leak inside the car could be screen could be boot related hopefully not , as it sounds like a lot of moisture in the car , or on a positive side could just be cold weather and not all moisture coming out of the car , i assume it’s fully warmed up on a run ? buy an exhaust bung use a clip to hold it in place then drive round the corner and take it off they are not very much £
a guy i bought an MR2 off years ago gave me this small tub of wax or something that he said you put on the inside of your windscreen to stop it from misting up.. Dont quite know about frost unless you might have left window cracked?
a bit of moisture on the screen is not unusual , but to have so much it freezes then that’s strange as i said above , but could just be from sitting around ? i do think the chance of a boot seal leak or a spoiler hole leak , only way is pull some carpets up
Don't have a problem now since I got a Heated Front Windscreen from Ricky Evans Motorsport for my Hawkeye.! Start the car, press the button and wait 30 seconds and all clear, inside and out. Lovely! Wiring it was a ******* tough. Used a DCCD Auto/Manual switch in the blank where the headlight leveler would go. A pair of Citroen rear window relays on a custom fuse block behind the glovebox and a home made loom and job's a good'un!
I have heated area on the front screen for the wipers to prevent them freezing on my JDM Spec B Leggy. Pretty much does exactly the same.
the inside of the car is/was hot, the outside obviously cold, condensation forms and if its cold enough it will freeze on the inside as well as the outside
drive the last 5 minutes with the windows down to lower the temp inside
the inside of the car is/was hot, the outside obviously cold, condensation forms and if its cold enough it will freeze on the inside as well as the outside
drive the last 5 minutes with the windows down to lower the temp inside
No help to you guys but after years of owning my Golf which took ages for the heater to heat up (despite a new thermostat and matrix), I finally retrofitted one of these:
That’s a electric heater element off a diesel which slots into the heater box. Now all I do is run the engine at 1200rpm and I have warm air within 30seconds from starting from cold (it’s CAN bus controlled so only runs at half power at idle to stop it draining the battery when the alternator isn’t up to speed). Probably one of the best cheap mods (second hand element) I’ve done and can’t believe I went for so long without it.
However you probably could fit a coolant heater block off a BMW E46 320d or Renault traffic 1.9dci in-line with the heater pipes: The one off a Traffic is just a load of glow plugs in a coolant pipe. Just make sure you use heavy gauge wires, fuses and relays up to the job.
Last edited by ALi-B; 10 December 2018 at 12:09 AM.
MkV Golf; Diesel models with climatronic have the electric heater. The petrol models don’t, but there is space in the heater box for it. Most VAGs based on the same platform have the same heater box so it’s quite a popular retrofit.
MkV Golf; Diesel models with climatronic have the electric heater. The petrol models don’t, but there is space in the heater box for it. Most VAGs based on the same platform have the same heater box so it’s quite a popular retrofit.
I dont suppose you have a P/N do you? also where it plugs in, its for a mkv golf( my mates)
tia
Not quite plug and play, as you need to run the power cabling, splice into the CAN bus and code it so the climate control knows it’s there. Also this is for VAGs with climate control; It may not work on VWs without aircon or with manual heater controls.
The heater itself is 1K0 963 235 E
1K0 963 235 D will work also
The other differences is cover part number is different as that’s for left hand drive, can’t remember what mine is off hand, but I can find it out if needed. Also the CAN bus wires can be spliced into the CAN wires for the central convenience module (I think, well, it’s one of the modules behind the glove box), the guy in the link did his to the CAN gateway which is a bitch to get at on RHD cars.
Word of warning if using a second hand heater, the internal circuit board can suffer from dry solder joints, mine was faulty but thankfully fairly straight forward to open up and re-solder. So check it works ok before installing in the heater box (mine was being tested in the above picture). This thread has a pic of the resistors that need re-soldering...http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=457401
Last edited by ALi-B; 13 December 2018 at 12:20 AM.
Not quite plug and play, as you need to run the power cabling, splice into the CAN bus and code it so the climate control knows it’s there. Also this is for VAGs with climate control; It may not work on VWs without aircon or with manual heater controls.
The heater itself is 1K0 963 235 E
1K0 963 235 D will work also
The other differences is cover part number is different as that’s for left hand drive, can’t remember what mine is off hand, but I can find it out if needed. Also the CAN bus wires can be spliced into the CAN wires for the central convenience module (I think, well, it’s one of the modules behind the glove box), the guy in the link did his to the CAN gateway which is a bitch to get at on RHD cars.
Word of warning if using a second hand heater, the internal circuit board can suffer from dry solder joints, mine was faulty but thankfully fairly straight forward to open up and re-solder. So check it works ok before installing in the heater box (mine was being tested in the above picture). This thread has a pic of the resistors that need re-soldering...http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=457401
Thanks for relevant information, all passed on,
Coding isn`t an issue, I can do that for him.
Last edited by JDM_Stig; 13 December 2018 at 12:58 PM.
Any chance you've got some sort of diagram or pictures of the wiring you did for this? I've been seriously considering one of these. Also, did you replace any of the windscreen fixings/mouldings/rubbers and, if so, what with?
I got a local fitter recommended by Ricky to come and fit it there. He changed the rubber edge trim to a similar generic profile one, but otherwise it was all standard. The Screen has two circuits, and you get a pair of black leads left in the scuttle area on each side.
I used two small fusebox/relay holder sets I got off Ebay that came with proper crimp on terminals et.al. Relays are Citroen 10 minute jobs.
Wiring was basically a really heavy duty live line via a 50A inline fuse to the bulkhead and once inside split into two to feed the main relay input. Then a pair of 27A cables output from these relays back through the bulkhead to one of each of the leads. The others were wired to more 27A wire and sent to an Earth point.
I used a feed from the stereo switched ignition to the held live, and earths to ground. The final feed was from the stereo up to a DCCD auto/manual switch in a blank place near the fog lights, etc. This has one in and out pair back to the relay split to both trigger poles. Finally, I ran a small wire (all looped up through fuses BTW) back to the switch and on to earth. This means it lights up the switch when on and cuts out with the screen, or if I turn the ignition off.
Not too complicated. I did, however forget to take any pictures....
04 December 2018, 02:17 PM
windscreen frozen inside
