Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice
#1
Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice
Ok so I'm attempting my first timing belt change towards the middle of this week although not on my spec c A mate of mine bought a dohc 2ltr 2008 hatch non turbo a few months back and although it has lots a paperwork we cannot see anything for a timing belt change so better to be safe than sorry.
Sooo why I'm starting this thread basicly its for any tips tricks or advise I may need in the coming days, I've already purchased the gates powergrip kit, coolant and locking tool for the cams as for the rest of the tools I should already have..
I already have a few questions which I need to ask and would be greatful for any advise or pointers, as said this is my first change so will probably take me the day to get it done although I gather is a relatively straight forward job..
My first few questions :
1) I've seen people using lock thread on the Bolts for the Pullies what type / strength do people recommend.. would a medium strength be fine and is the liquid lock thread better apose to the stick version.
2) The tensioner, I've seen various videos where The piston is relesesed slowly and compressed a few times first in a vice, would this only apply if you was re using a previous one not that im doing that, in the gates pack there is a little leaflet that just says to keep it upright for 24hr prior to install to get the oil and air to separate I'm guessing u must leave the tensioner upright for 24hrs then release / compress it a few times ?
3) Bolt Torque setting for the pullies / tensioner is anyone able to advise I would imagine all the pullies are the same but the tensioner maybe different. Also need Torque setting for the crank pullie.
Any help would be much appreciated
Sooo why I'm starting this thread basicly its for any tips tricks or advise I may need in the coming days, I've already purchased the gates powergrip kit, coolant and locking tool for the cams as for the rest of the tools I should already have..
I already have a few questions which I need to ask and would be greatful for any advise or pointers, as said this is my first change so will probably take me the day to get it done although I gather is a relatively straight forward job..
My first few questions :
1) I've seen people using lock thread on the Bolts for the Pullies what type / strength do people recommend.. would a medium strength be fine and is the liquid lock thread better apose to the stick version.
2) The tensioner, I've seen various videos where The piston is relesesed slowly and compressed a few times first in a vice, would this only apply if you was re using a previous one not that im doing that, in the gates pack there is a little leaflet that just says to keep it upright for 24hr prior to install to get the oil and air to separate I'm guessing u must leave the tensioner upright for 24hrs then release / compress it a few times ?
3) Bolt Torque setting for the pullies / tensioner is anyone able to advise I would imagine all the pullies are the same but the tensioner maybe different. Also need Torque setting for the crank pullie.
Any help would be much appreciated
Last edited by crazyspeedfreakz; 16 April 2018 at 08:45 AM.
#2
I recently did my belt on a jdm sti, was pretty easy, I just removed the fans and left radiator in place. Main thing that’s essential is a method to hold the front pulley and a good breaker bar to undo it. i made a tool out of some 10mm thick flat and put 4 holes for m12 bolts that line up with the holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the middle so socket can go through.
#3
I’ve had a few crank pullies off over the years, yes they can be stubborn I tend to put the
Car into gear and crack the bolt of that way I’ve plenty of breaker bars so that’s not a problem...
I’m guessing u have to leave the idler upright for 24hrs then bleed it ??
Car into gear and crack the bolt of that way I’ve plenty of breaker bars so that’s not a problem...
I’m guessing u have to leave the idler upright for 24hrs then bleed it ??
#5
Hi joe yes that’s correct sorry probs just explaining it wrong, I belive when u get them new u have to clamp take out the pin and release slowly out till fully out then slowly back in about 3 time would that be correct and prior to that I guess u must have to have it upright for 24hts to slow the air and oil to separate ??
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#8
Scooby Regular
From the MY08 Impreza non turbo(H4DO) manual
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#11
I think I must be seeing things
Maybe what I saw online was just a old tensioner been reused and it was
Just been re compressed to be used again
Can anyone confirm that the tensioner are perfectly good to use straight from the box.... my eyes are going square from watching so many videos think I'm confusing things
Maybe what I saw online was just a old tensioner been reused and it was
Just been re compressed to be used again
Can anyone confirm that the tensioner are perfectly good to use straight from the box.... my eyes are going square from watching so many videos think I'm confusing things
#12
Scooby Regular
A new tensioner will come with the locking pin already inserted ready to go
#22
Had To put this back a week so won't be doing it till after the weekend now but I had a few questions regarding the cam movements,.
from what I've read the driver side cams can be moved in any direction and are not loaded tension wise could someone confirm this.
Secondly the passenger side cams will have tension and may spring I have the cam locking tool to use but I believe the top passenger cam in can only be moved clockwise and bottom passenger cam out is counter clock wise, can these be moved around as many times as needed without worrying about valves hitting as long as moved in correct direction.?
from what I've read the driver side cams can be moved in any direction and are not loaded tension wise could someone confirm this.
Secondly the passenger side cams will have tension and may spring I have the cam locking tool to use but I believe the top passenger cam in can only be moved clockwise and bottom passenger cam out is counter clock wise, can these be moved around as many times as needed without worrying about valves hitting as long as moved in correct direction.?
#23
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
Have you read this,very good tips from Merlin24.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...procedure.html
Iirc both sides are 'spring loaded'
Can be turned either way and when the cam lobe hits the bucket you will feel resistance.
I didn't use a cam lock and didn't use Micks procedure(wish I had) I just have long arms,"some" patience and did a little swearing lol.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...procedure.html
Iirc both sides are 'spring loaded'
Can be turned either way and when the cam lobe hits the bucket you will feel resistance.
I didn't use a cam lock and didn't use Micks procedure(wish I had) I just have long arms,"some" patience and did a little swearing lol.
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