Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice - ScoobyNet.com - Subaru Enthusiast Forum

Go Back  ScoobyNet.com - Subaru Enthusiast Forum > Community > ScoobyNet General
Reload this Page >

Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice

Notices
ScoobyNet General General Subaru Discussion

Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice

Reply

 
 
 
Old 15 April 2018, 05:10 PM
  #1  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice

Ok so I'm attempting my first timing belt change towards the middle of this week although not on my spec c A mate of mine bought a dohc 2ltr 2008 hatch non turbo a few months back and although it has lots a paperwork we cannot see anything for a timing belt change so better to be safe than sorry.

Sooo why I'm starting this thread basicly its for any tips tricks or advise I may need in the coming days, I've already purchased the gates powergrip kit, coolant and locking tool for the cams as for the rest of the tools I should already have..

I already have a few questions which I need to ask and would be greatful for any advise or pointers, as said this is my first change so will probably take me the day to get it done although I gather is a relatively straight forward job..




My first few questions :

1) I've seen people using lock thread on the Bolts for the Pullies what type / strength do people recommend.. would a medium strength be fine and is the liquid lock thread better apose to the stick version.

2) The tensioner, I've seen various videos where The piston is relesesed slowly and compressed a few times first in a vice, would this only apply if you was re using a previous one not that im doing that, in the gates pack there is a little leaflet that just says to keep it upright for 24hr prior to install to get the oil and air to separate I'm guessing u must leave the tensioner upright for 24hrs then release / compress it a few times ?

3) Bolt Torque setting for the pullies / tensioner is anyone able to advise I would imagine all the pullies are the same but the tensioner maybe different. Also need Torque setting for the crank pullie.


Any help would be much appreciated

Last edited by crazyspeedfreakz; 16 April 2018 at 08:45 AM.
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 15 April 2018, 07:27 PM
  #2  
daz1968
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,479
Default

I recently did my belt on a jdm sti, was pretty easy, I just removed the fans and left radiator in place. Main thing thatís essential is a method to hold the front pulley and a good breaker bar to undo it. i made a tool out of some 10mm thick flat and put 4 holes for m12 bolts that line up with the holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the middle so socket can go through.
daz1968 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 15 April 2018, 08:48 PM
  #3  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

I’ve had a few crank pullies off over the years, yes they can be stubborn I tend to put the
Car into gear and crack the bolt of that way I’ve plenty of breaker bars so that’s not a problem...

I’m guessing u have to leave the idler upright for 24hrs then bleed it ??
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 15 April 2018, 08:51 PM
  #4  
1509joe
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Not sure
Posts: 1,412
Default

You don't bleed it you keep it upright then slowly compress.
1509joe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 15 April 2018, 09:16 PM
  #5  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

Hi joe yes that’s correct sorry probs just explaining it wrong, I belive when u get them new u have to clamp take out the pin and release slowly out till fully out then slowly back in about 3 time would that be correct and prior to that I guess u must have to have it upright for 24hts to slow the air and oil to separate ??
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 15 April 2018, 09:41 PM
  #6  
1509joe
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Not sure
Posts: 1,412
Default

When you get it new just stand it up don't pull the pin out at all. For fear of getting ridiculed I've never had any bother with them as long as they are compressed slowly the right way up.
1509joe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 06:26 AM
  #7  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

Didn't know you had to bleed the tensioner,never heard that one,I've done 2 and they've been fine,both were the older style if that make a difference?
One to remember I guess.
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 07:14 AM
  #8  
Don Clark
Scooby Regular
 
Don Clark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 4,441
Default

From the MY08 Impreza non turbo(H4DO) manual



Crankshaft bolt tightening pdf
Timing belt removal pdf
Timing belt installation pdf

V-belts - Aircon belt is a stretch fit, no adjuster.

V-belt removal pdf
V-belt installation pdf
Don Clark is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 08:50 AM
  #9  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
Didn't know you had to bleed the tensioner,never heard that one,I've done 2 and they've been fine,both were the older style if that make a difference?
One to remember I guess.

I think bleeding it was the wrong term I've adjusted the post to try explain it abit better....
basicly I talking about the procedure of putting it in a vice or clamp and slowly letting the piston up and down on a few occasions prior to install.
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 08:58 AM
  #10  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

Ah I see,Didn't know that either lol
Maybe I got lucky,I did pull the pin a couple of times due to me not having the belt exactly correct.
It's something I will do in future belt changes. Cheers
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 04:27 PM
  #11  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

I think I must be seeing things

Maybe what I saw online was just a old tensioner been reused and it was
Just been re compressed to be used again

Can anyone confirm that the tensioner are perfectly good to use straight from the box.... my eyes are going square from watching so many videos think I'm confusing things
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 04:37 PM
  #12  
Don Clark
Scooby Regular
 
Don Clark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 4,441
Default

A new tensioner will come with the locking pin already inserted ready to go
Don Clark is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 04:40 PM
  #13  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

Thanks Don, so I was totally making it all up lolll god no's what I was watching... so many videos I must have lost track, thanks for all the settings above will come in very handy
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 04:58 PM
  #14  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

What do people recomend for threadloc

Loctite 243 medium ??
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 05:00 PM
  #15  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
Ah I see,Didn't know that either lol
Maybe I got lucky,I did pull the pin a couple of times due to me not having the belt exactly correct.
It's something I will NOTdo in future belt changes. Cheers
EFA lol
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 05:01 PM
  #16  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

Originally Posted by crazyspeedfreakz View Post
What do people recomend for threadloc

Loctite 243 medium ??
Never used thread lock either,just torqued to spec.
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 05:33 PM
  #17  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

Thanks Ossett, I’ve jus been told by someone else also no loc Thread is required
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 05:45 PM
  #18  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

Nice one,had me worried there
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 09:39 PM
  #19  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
Nice one,had me worried there

Out of interest Did u drop the coolant and take out rad for more room or
Did u leave in place just Iíve seen both methods attempted
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 16 April 2018, 10:21 PM
  #20  
1509joe
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Not sure
Posts: 1,412
Default

Take rad out far easier and less chance of bodging a hole in it. 2 plugs 2x 12mm bolts 2x jubilee clips 3 wee pipes. Don't loose the rad rubbers they roll off nicely
1509joe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 17 April 2018, 06:27 AM
  #21  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

This^^^^^

Although the 2nd time I took engine out,a bit extreme but was even easier

Didn't just take it out for a belt change btw

Last edited by ossett2k2; 17 April 2018 at 06:28 AM.
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 19 April 2018, 10:30 AM
  #22  
crazyspeedfreakz
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (92)
 
crazyspeedfreakz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5,753
Default

Had To put this back a week so won't be doing it till after the weekend now but I had a few questions regarding the cam movements,.

from what I've read the driver side cams can be moved in any direction and are not loaded tension wise could someone confirm this.

Secondly the passenger side cams will have tension and may spring I have the cam locking tool to use but I believe the top passenger cam in can only be moved clockwise and bottom passenger cam out is counter clock wise, can these be moved around as many times as needed without worrying about valves hitting as long as moved in correct direction.?
crazyspeedfreakz is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 19 April 2018, 11:48 AM
  #23  
ossett2k2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
ossett2k2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leeds
Posts: 6,040
Default

Have you read this,very good tips from Merlin24.

https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...procedure.html
Iirc both sides are 'spring loaded'
Can be turned either way and when the cam lobe hits the bucket you will feel resistance.
I didn't use a cam lock and didn't use Micks procedure(wish I had) I just have long arms,"some" patience and did a little swearing lol.
ossett2k2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply
 
 
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Milan-San Remo
Subaru Parts
1
22 March 2015 11:22 AM
Slystav
General Technical
18
02 April 2010 12:41 PM
jaytc2003
General Technical
1
01 August 2007 07:53 PM
Kevin Groat
General Technical
13
21 May 2005 11:00 AM

Forum Jump

Thread Tools
Search this Thread