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Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice

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Old 15 April 2018, 05:10 PM   #1  
crazyspeedfreakz
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Default Impreza timing belt removal tips and advice

Ok so I'm attempting my first timing belt change towards the middle of this week although not on my spec c A mate of mine bought a dohc 2ltr 2008 hatch non turbo a few months back and although it has lots a paperwork we cannot see anything for a timing belt change so better to be safe than sorry.

Sooo why I'm starting this thread basicly its for any tips tricks or advise I may need in the coming days, I've already purchased the gates powergrip kit, coolant and locking tool for the cams as for the rest of the tools I should already have..

I already have a few questions which I need to ask and would be greatful for any advise or pointers, as said this is my first change so will probably take me the day to get it done although I gather is a relatively straight forward job..




My first few questions :

1) I've seen people using lock thread on the Bolts for the Pullies what type / strength do people recommend.. would a medium strength be fine and is the liquid lock thread better apose to the stick version.

2) The tensioner, I've seen various videos where The piston is relesesed slowly and compressed a few times first in a vice, would this only apply if you was re using a previous one not that im doing that, in the gates pack there is a little leaflet that just says to keep it upright for 24hr prior to install to get the oil and air to separate I'm guessing u must leave the tensioner upright for 24hrs then release / compress it a few times ?

3) Bolt Torque setting for the pullies / tensioner is anyone able to advise I would imagine all the pullies are the same but the tensioner maybe different. Also need Torque setting for the crank pullie.


Any help would be much appreciated

Last edited by crazyspeedfreakz; 16 April 2018 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 15 April 2018, 07:27 PM   #2  
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I recently did my belt on a jdm sti, was pretty easy, I just removed the fans and left radiator in place. Main thing thatís essential is a method to hold the front pulley and a good breaker bar to undo it. i made a tool out of some 10mm thick flat and put 4 holes for m12 bolts that line up with the holes in the pulley, and a larger hole in the middle so socket can go through.
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Old 15 April 2018, 08:48 PM   #3  
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I’ve had a few crank pullies off over the years, yes they can be stubborn I tend to put the
Car into gear and crack the bolt of that way I’ve plenty of breaker bars so that’s not a problem...

I’m guessing u have to leave the idler upright for 24hrs then bleed it ??
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Old 15 April 2018, 08:51 PM   #4  
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You don't bleed it you keep it upright then slowly compress.
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Old 15 April 2018, 09:16 PM   #5  
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Hi joe yes that’s correct sorry probs just explaining it wrong, I belive when u get them new u have to clamp take out the pin and release slowly out till fully out then slowly back in about 3 time would that be correct and prior to that I guess u must have to have it upright for 24hts to slow the air and oil to separate ??
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Old 15 April 2018, 09:41 PM   #6  
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When you get it new just stand it up don't pull the pin out at all. For fear of getting ridiculed I've never had any bother with them as long as they are compressed slowly the right way up.
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Old 16 April 2018, 06:26 AM   #7  
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Didn't know you had to bleed the tensioner,never heard that one,I've done 2 and they've been fine,both were the older style if that make a difference?
One to remember I guess.
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Old 16 April 2018, 07:14 AM   #8  
Don Clark
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From the MY08 Impreza non turbo(H4DO) manual



Crankshaft bolt tightening pdf
Timing belt removal pdf
Timing belt installation pdf

V-belts - Aircon belt is a stretch fit, no adjuster.

V-belt removal pdf
V-belt installation pdf
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Old 16 April 2018, 08:50 AM   #9  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
Didn't know you had to bleed the tensioner,never heard that one,I've done 2 and they've been fine,both were the older style if that make a difference?
One to remember I guess.

I think bleeding it was the wrong term I've adjusted the post to try explain it abit better....
basicly I talking about the procedure of putting it in a vice or clamp and slowly letting the piston up and down on a few occasions prior to install.
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Old 16 April 2018, 08:58 AM   #10  
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Ah I see,Didn't know that either lol
Maybe I got lucky,I did pull the pin a couple of times due to me not having the belt exactly correct.
It's something I will do in future belt changes. Cheers
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Old 16 April 2018, 04:27 PM   #11  
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I think I must be seeing things

Maybe what I saw online was just a old tensioner been reused and it was
Just been re compressed to be used again

Can anyone confirm that the tensioner are perfectly good to use straight from the box.... my eyes are going square from watching so many videos think I'm confusing things
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Old 16 April 2018, 04:37 PM   #12  
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A new tensioner will come with the locking pin already inserted ready to go
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Old 16 April 2018, 04:40 PM   #13  
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Thanks Don, so I was totally making it all up lolll god no's what I was watching... so many videos I must have lost track, thanks for all the settings above will come in very handy
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Old 16 April 2018, 04:58 PM   #14  
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What do people recomend for threadloc

Loctite 243 medium ??
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Old 16 April 2018, 05:00 PM   #15  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
Ah I see,Didn't know that either lol
Maybe I got lucky,I did pull the pin a couple of times due to me not having the belt exactly correct.
It's something I will NOTdo in future belt changes. Cheers
EFA lol
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Old 16 April 2018, 05:01 PM   #16  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyspeedfreakz View Post
What do people recomend for threadloc

Loctite 243 medium ??
Never used thread lock either,just torqued to spec.
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Old 16 April 2018, 05:33 PM   #17  
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Thanks Ossett, I’ve jus been told by someone else also no loc Thread is required
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Old 16 April 2018, 05:45 PM   #18  
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Nice one,had me worried there
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Old 16 April 2018, 09:39 PM   #19  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossett2k2 View Post
Nice one,had me worried there

Out of interest Did u drop the coolant and take out rad for more room or
Did u leave in place just Iíve seen both methods attempted
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Old 16 April 2018, 10:21 PM   #20  
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Take rad out far easier and less chance of bodging a hole in it. 2 plugs 2x 12mm bolts 2x jubilee clips 3 wee pipes. Don't loose the rad rubbers they roll off nicely
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Old 17 April 2018, 06:27 AM   #21  
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This^^^^^

Although the 2nd time I took engine out,a bit extreme but was even easier

Didn't just take it out for a belt change btw

Last edited by ossett2k2; 17 April 2018 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 19 April 2018, 10:30 AM   #22  
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Had To put this back a week so won't be doing it till after the weekend now but I had a few questions regarding the cam movements,.

from what I've read the driver side cams can be moved in any direction and are not loaded tension wise could someone confirm this.

Secondly the passenger side cams will have tension and may spring I have the cam locking tool to use but I believe the top passenger cam in can only be moved clockwise and bottom passenger cam out is counter clock wise, can these be moved around as many times as needed without worrying about valves hitting as long as moved in correct direction.?
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Old 19 April 2018, 11:48 AM   #23  
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Have you read this,very good tips from Merlin24.

https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...procedure.html
Iirc both sides are 'spring loaded'
Can be turned either way and when the cam lobe hits the bucket you will feel resistance.
I didn't use a cam lock and didn't use Micks procedure(wish I had) I just have long arms,"some" patience and did a little swearing lol.
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