Advice on buying a sti subie
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Advice on buying a sti subie
First thing first, im new here so hi .
So I'm looking to buy a sti, Ideally with PPP as I wouldn't mind over 300hp.
Few questions; Anyone have any advice when viewing cars, in terms of things to seriously look out for, big problems etc... I've done a lot of homework already and sort of know what i'm looking for. But just incase...
I'm a little Unsure on whether to go for one with a DCCD box or not..
I've read that its really not for people who dont know how to handle a car, particularly with oversteer. My last car was a e36 with a welder, done a **** load of track days and I'd say i'm pretty good behind the wheel with oversteer, i,e Really confident (but not to the level of cocky). So my question is, With a dccd tranny, from what i've read you can near enough switch between 50/50 and a much higher ratio to the rear end... right ? The whole reason I want a subie is for the 4wd factor. But i LOVE letting the **** end out a little every now and then. So i'm contemplating one with a DCCD, even with the much higher price. Also how are the dccd boxes on maintenance and faults ? I really want something that i can drive with a peace of mind.. or at least the majority of the time
Thanks for any help in advance
So I'm looking to buy a sti, Ideally with PPP as I wouldn't mind over 300hp.
Few questions; Anyone have any advice when viewing cars, in terms of things to seriously look out for, big problems etc... I've done a lot of homework already and sort of know what i'm looking for. But just incase...
I'm a little Unsure on whether to go for one with a DCCD box or not..
I've read that its really not for people who dont know how to handle a car, particularly with oversteer. My last car was a e36 with a welder, done a **** load of track days and I'd say i'm pretty good behind the wheel with oversteer, i,e Really confident (but not to the level of cocky). So my question is, With a dccd tranny, from what i've read you can near enough switch between 50/50 and a much higher ratio to the rear end... right ? The whole reason I want a subie is for the 4wd factor. But i LOVE letting the **** end out a little every now and then. So i'm contemplating one with a DCCD, even with the much higher price. Also how are the dccd boxes on maintenance and faults ? I really want something that i can drive with a peace of mind.. or at least the majority of the time
Thanks for any help in advance
#2
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Standard is full service history, or receipts for full engine rebuild. Most costly thing will be the engine. If the cars been undersealed or dry stored. Mine was undersealed from new with receipts. Always check Gear box oil, dip stick to left of intercooler. If it's from a private owner check how he drives it, does he let it warm up before boost etc.
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Standard is full service history, or receipts for full engine rebuild. Most costly thing will be the engine. If the cars been undersealed or dry stored. Mine was undersealed from new with receipts. Always check Gear box oil, dip stick to left of intercooler. If it's from a private owner check how he drives it, does he let it warm up before boost etc.
Out of curiosity, what's the script with rebuilt engines, replaced engines, fully forged engines ?
I see a good few of them about just now, but at rather low prices. Especially ones that say, have just been forged and rebuilt around 3k miles ago. Obviously a fully forged engine will not last as long as stock so id rather keep away from them..
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Maybe i'm just being paranoid. I can never trust anyone as much as myself with a engine rebuild.
#7
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Oh yes fully agree, it would put me off aswell. Would prefer a forged build by a decent garage, with a few thousand miles of hassle free running. Ideally would be a standard car or one by a trusted seller of here who treats it like a garage queen. Other option is a from a garage with warranty. 3rd option is import one yourself.
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#8
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Read this.
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-failures.html
Then go to a decent Subaru webpage; like here.
www.type-ra.com
https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-failures.html
Then go to a decent Subaru webpage; like here.
www.type-ra.com
#9
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So my question is, With a dccd tranny, from what i've read you can near enough switch between 50/50 and a much higher ratio to the rear end... right ? The whole reason I want a subie is for the 4wd factor. But i LOVE letting the **** end out a little every now and then.
The DCCD function is not itself what gives you more rear-bias than a non-DCCD car. Locking the diff offers benefits for traction and braking in low-grip situations. Keeping the diff open on a DCCD car is what you do when you want to get the **** round.
The rear bias comes from the fact that DCCD cars have a rear-biased F:R torque distribution when the centre diff is fully open. Non DCCD cars have an open centre diff with 50:50 torque distribution. The most rear-biased of the DCCD cars are classics and blobs, with a 35F:65R torque distribution when the diff is fully open. DCCD bugs are 45F:55R and DCCD hawks are 41:59F.
#11
I've noticed a few younger British Impreza fans saying Subie...fkn annoying...
I always thought a tranny was someone like that tall geezer I see in town who wears a PVC miniskirt and donkey jacket.
#12
Hi, I have been on the forum a while, but have only recently signed up as a member. I have the following Subaru for sale if of any interest.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifi...--2007/7623539
If ad links are not allowed due to forum rules please delete.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifi...--2007/7623539
If ad links are not allowed due to forum rules please delete.
#14
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#17
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This puzzles me too ... if you're going to shell out ££££s on getting it forged, then why get rid of it as soon as it's been forged? Some I've seen up for sale even before a running in period of 1000 miles has been completed.
#18
You think that's bad, I've got to admit I'm driving an M3....As a BMW owner (soon to be ex BMW owner), it's mandatory that you wear a bluetooth earpiece at all times..Wearing the plastic shades I can live with, but the earpiece looks ridiculous when you're in the gym taking a shower.
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Anybody have an opinion on the price of this one ?
Would anyone agree it's a little over priced?
I read nothing but good reviews on the guy selling it. Bar the fact that majority of people say his prices are on the high end. Went to see it and it was indeed in really good condition for what it is. Never bought it as it's just that little too much for me. He wouldnt go lower than 10.5
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifi...uk-4dr/7448211
Would anyone agree it's a little over priced?
I read nothing but good reviews on the guy selling it. Bar the fact that majority of people say his prices are on the high end. Went to see it and it was indeed in really good condition for what it is. Never bought it as it's just that little too much for me. He wouldnt go lower than 10.5
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifi...uk-4dr/7448211
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What would be a fair price in your eyes ?
I cant find any 05 blob sti's with ppp, dccd, a decent colour and decent mileage for much less than this...
Contemplating going back and buying it. But the guy did indirectly call me a "right plonker"
I cant find any 05 blob sti's with ppp, dccd, a decent colour and decent mileage for much less than this...
Contemplating going back and buying it. But the guy did indirectly call me a "right plonker"
#25
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Clearly you've done your homework on the dealer but prior to purchasing my car I got in touch with the above dealer on a car he had for sale at the time, and the service he provided for a £10k+ car I'd have been disappointed with if he was selling a £1k motor. I wasn't impressed, tried a few times, nothing improved and moved on to the next.
Personal thoughts of course.
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How so?
Clearly you've done your homework on the dealer but prior to purchasing my car I got in touch with the above dealer on a car he had for sale at the time, and the service he provided for a £10k+ car I'd have been disappointed with if he was selling a £1k motor. I wasn't impressed, tried a few times, nothing improved and moved on to the next.
Personal thoughts of course.
Clearly you've done your homework on the dealer but prior to purchasing my car I got in touch with the above dealer on a car he had for sale at the time, and the service he provided for a £10k+ car I'd have been disappointed with if he was selling a £1k motor. I wasn't impressed, tried a few times, nothing improved and moved on to the next.
Personal thoughts of course.
I guess I can come up with multiple reasons as to why I'm contemplating buying it such as there are only say 5-10 others for sale but still not what I'm looking for etc. But it really boils down to me just being impatient hahaha. So thanks, I doubt I'll buy it now, I really don't think it's a good deal.
#27
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5 owners and overpriced.
As to Forged rebuilds... Bear in mind the 2.0 cars JDM and all pre-Hawkeye (06-07) cars were forged from new. The Hawk was not as it came with a non Homologated 2.5 engine meant for the U.S. Market.
They run 1.0BAR of boost and the head bolts stretch over 1.2BAR causing head gasket failure. Basically, many of the earlier re-mapped cars would suffer this, and the result is the engine has to come out., Either a standard rebuild or upgrading, like I did. I bought mine already mapped, and the muppets had put the wrong fuel pump (Classic) in and overboosted it so I needed to correct that and unbend the fuel level rod too...
Anyway, forging a 2.5 replaces the rods and pistons. The Crank is Steel on any STI and a balance is just a nicety. The fix for the weak head bolts is studs. 11mm standard thread is the basic mod, as I did. If you plan on going over 500BHP, then they bore and tap the cases and run 14mm studs.
That fixes your head gasket problem generally for good. So in reality a proper Forged rebuild will ensure reliability way beyond O.E. for a 2.5.
I run my 06 STi at standard boost mostly. Warm it properly before having any fun and at 30,000 miles since rebuild, the water temps are rock steady and the car faultless. It's driven to Turkey and back at high speed (much better fuel economy on the Atuobahn at 130mph btw...)
Not for sale, but mine's a peach. DCCD, A Heated Windscreen, rear reverse camera and 7" Apple Car Play Alpine head unit driving amp and Sub under each front seat. Just how I wanted it to be.
The Second map is for warm dry fun days over the Mountain....
As to Forged rebuilds... Bear in mind the 2.0 cars JDM and all pre-Hawkeye (06-07) cars were forged from new. The Hawk was not as it came with a non Homologated 2.5 engine meant for the U.S. Market.
They run 1.0BAR of boost and the head bolts stretch over 1.2BAR causing head gasket failure. Basically, many of the earlier re-mapped cars would suffer this, and the result is the engine has to come out., Either a standard rebuild or upgrading, like I did. I bought mine already mapped, and the muppets had put the wrong fuel pump (Classic) in and overboosted it so I needed to correct that and unbend the fuel level rod too...
Anyway, forging a 2.5 replaces the rods and pistons. The Crank is Steel on any STI and a balance is just a nicety. The fix for the weak head bolts is studs. 11mm standard thread is the basic mod, as I did. If you plan on going over 500BHP, then they bore and tap the cases and run 14mm studs.
That fixes your head gasket problem generally for good. So in reality a proper Forged rebuild will ensure reliability way beyond O.E. for a 2.5.
I run my 06 STi at standard boost mostly. Warm it properly before having any fun and at 30,000 miles since rebuild, the water temps are rock steady and the car faultless. It's driven to Turkey and back at high speed (much better fuel economy on the Atuobahn at 130mph btw...)
Not for sale, but mine's a peach. DCCD, A Heated Windscreen, rear reverse camera and 7" Apple Car Play Alpine head unit driving amp and Sub under each front seat. Just how I wanted it to be.
The Second map is for warm dry fun days over the Mountain....
#28
Don't be impatient when buying a car..In the Subaru world, the ONLY one that will never be seen again is a 22B..the rest are constantly back and forth for sale..Play the waiting game, because the second you buy a nail, a minter will turn up on your doorstep.
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2004 blobeye sti wr1 #425/500 with DCCD box
107k ish miles (a bit high i know)
3 owners from new
full service history, serviced every 5k miles
basically completely stock bar a real carbon fiber bonnet and a fmic that isn't plumbed in but comes with pipework.
As I said paintwork isn't the best, but the price I'm getting her for leaves me enough to get it repainted in the same colour.
Also a cat D from a tiny bit of damage to front driver wing but it was not structural and isn't even registered as a cat d on the log book.
Final price: £6650
Owner was completely upfront and honest about every aspect of the car which I liked to. Says he just lost interest in it. Even bought new pads all around for me. Oil and tranny oil was all perfect. could not find any structural rust anywhere, including suspension towers/ wells. let her warm up well before taking her out for a drive too.
What do you all think.. good deal ?