Swedish STI Type R Version 5 track & weekend racer - lots of pictures!!!
#91
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I was flooring it on a b-road and it just did go bang/rattle. I'm not sure what happened but the block is ****ed. But the engine turns over so it hasn't pinched.
I'm gona look into it further sometime later. No hurry getting it ready.
I'm running about 1.4 bar of boost.
I've set up one aux for a toggle switch to change boost map. One cruise and one race.
Well I just need the block not the whole engine. I would need a new ECU to be able to use the never heads since it has AVCS. A 2.5L with a sc turbo would be a killer on the streets =)
I'm gona look into it further sometime later. No hurry getting it ready.
I'm running about 1.4 bar of boost.
I've set up one aux for a toggle switch to change boost map. One cruise and one race.
Well I just need the block not the whole engine. I would need a new ECU to be able to use the never heads since it has AVCS. A 2.5L with a sc turbo would be a killer on the streets =)
I didn't know you can run a toggle to change maps. That is pretty awesome! I will have to add that to my Panel for sure, along with Anti Lag, Water/Methanol, IC Spray maybe and a Battery shut off!
After reading more about Link, I'm in love with it now, and I haven't even bought it haha. It does so much more than Apexi PFC.
I also have Kelford making me custom profile Cams! 272/268 11.30/10.60 LSA109/112. I still have so much work to do on my car its ridiculous. I'm so anxious to drive it. I haven't driven with boost in 4 years now... lol I'm ashamed to say that
#92
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Well you can't have so many aux outpots acually. There is maximum of how many. But I think you can use one toggle switch to change several things, but I'm not sure.
#93
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1)Anti Lag,
2)Boost mapUP is Race boost & DOWN is daily driven boost,
3)IC Spray
4)Water/Methanol inj
I'm researching on how to MAF blend, to where I can use the MAF at low RPM's and Speed Density at higher RPM's. I'll most likely have to have my tuner do it, but I'd like to learn how to Map blend.
Last edited by WelDun1; 24 June 2013 at 03:56 AM.
#94
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hmm ok. I think we are thinking in the wrong way here. You are using digital inputs for toggle switches. Not the Aux outputs. You are putting input to the box =). And there is only one digital input available on the plugin box and that is through the expansion connector. It says two digital inputs on the connector but there is only one of them in use/connected.
You got standard digital inputs like ignition switch, start position, power steering, speed and air con request. So you could use the digital input for the air con if you don't use it. But then you have to locate the wires for that.
You got analog inputs also. But those are for sensors like oil pressure, oil temp, inlet air temp etc.
And you don't need the maf if you're using link. Just get rid of it, it's just a lot of problems with them. They break constantly =)
You got standard digital inputs like ignition switch, start position, power steering, speed and air con request. So you could use the digital input for the air con if you don't use it. But then you have to locate the wires for that.
You got analog inputs also. But those are for sensors like oil pressure, oil temp, inlet air temp etc.
And you don't need the maf if you're using link. Just get rid of it, it's just a lot of problems with them. They break constantly =)
#95
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hmm ok. I think we are thinking in the wrong way here. You are using digital inputs for toggle switches. Not the Aux outputs. You are putting input to the box =). And there is only one digital input available on the plugin box and that is through the expansion connector. It says two digital inputs on the connector but there is only one of them in use/connected.
You got standard digital inputs like ignition switch, start position, power steering, speed and air con request. So you could use the digital input for the air con if you don't use it. But then you have to locate the wires for that.
You got analog inputs also. But those are for sensors like oil pressure, oil temp, inlet air temp etc.
And you don't need the maf if you're using link. Just get rid of it, it's just a lot of problems with them. They break constantly =)
You got standard digital inputs like ignition switch, start position, power steering, speed and air con request. So you could use the digital input for the air con if you don't use it. But then you have to locate the wires for that.
You got analog inputs also. But those are for sensors like oil pressure, oil temp, inlet air temp etc.
And you don't need the maf if you're using link. Just get rid of it, it's just a lot of problems with them. They break constantly =)
This is why the guy was telling me that I can have up to 4 outputs!
About the MAF, yes... It's faulty to an extent, But, everyone is starting to Blend the 2 maps. Using the MAF for lower rpms, and SD for higher. SD is unstable in altitude changes. The MAF/ MAP blend option is used to cover the entire load range w/ a high degree of resolution. MAF controls closed loop and light load driving while the SD controls the Open Loop/WOT sections. This will get you the best of both worlds. And Depending on the engine, its most likely that one or the other sensor is unsuitable for either the low end or the high end. When you Blend the Maps, the entire range can be effectively covered, and more importantly, dual sensors are needed for model based tuning systems, where the two sensors plus a mathematical model of flow through the throttle plate are all used to provide a best prediction of engine performance.
Once you get the hang of blending the 2 maps, it opens up endless possibilities of tuning.. some ppl are even using the Alpha_N mode, and blending all 3.
Last edited by WelDun1; 24 June 2013 at 12:20 PM.
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That is more than I know. I haven't found any information about that. The only thing I know about is the extra expansion connector allowing some extra connections.
Gnd Sensor Ground Only
+5V Out Low Current +5V Supply
DI5 Digital Input
DI7 Currently not connected
An Volt 5 Analog 0-5V input
An Volt 6 Analog 0-5V input
An Temp 2 Temperature sensor input
An Temp 3 Temperature sensor input
Yeah I know you can run unused inputs and outputs. After looking closer it seems like fuel aux output 7 & 8 are unused. Take a look for yourself in the software. Open the basmap for the subaru v5-6 and check the settings for the inputs/outputs.
I took a printscreen so you can see.
Gnd Sensor Ground Only
+5V Out Low Current +5V Supply
DI5 Digital Input
DI7 Currently not connected
An Volt 5 Analog 0-5V input
An Volt 6 Analog 0-5V input
An Temp 2 Temperature sensor input
An Temp 3 Temperature sensor input
Yeah I know you can run unused inputs and outputs. After looking closer it seems like fuel aux output 7 & 8 are unused. Take a look for yourself in the software. Open the basmap for the subaru v5-6 and check the settings for the inputs/outputs.
I took a printscreen so you can see.
#98
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Gnd Sensor Ground Only
+5V Out Low Current +5V Supply
DI5 Digital Input
DI7 Currently not connected
An Volt 5 Analog 0-5V input
An Volt 6 Analog 0-5V input
An Temp 2 Temperature sensor input
An Temp 3 Temperature sensor input
Yeah I know you can run unused inputs and outputs. After looking closer it seems like fuel aux output 7 & 8 are unused. Take a look for yourself in the software. Open the basmap for the subaru v5-6 and check the settings for the inputs/outputs.
I took a printscreen so you can see.
Those are the extra Outputs that can be used for switches.
G4 ECU's have up to 10 Digital Inputs that can be configured for sensors/ switches such as:
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Antilag Switch
Clutch Switch (for launch control and flat shifting)
High / Low Boost Switch
Water Spray Switch
Dual Fuel / Ignition Map Switch
Nitrous Oxide Switch
Anti-theft Switch
AC Request Switch
VVT can only be wired to 1-4
Frequency only 1-6
And you can run Switches on all 10
The extra Fuel Aux 7-8 can also be used as well as extra Injection and ignition.
I really can't wait to get my RA running. There's so much that I'm ready to do, but can't do anything until I get the Firewall finished. It was moving pretty fast up until this point. Now everything requires attention to detail and little to no error. I'm hoping for a late August finish. Its going to be an Awesome STi. Hopefully as nice as yours!
#99
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Good Luck
#100
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So what do you plan on doing about an engine? If u plan on running a stock block, I'd go with a ver7 RA-R, but if ur Guna build it, I'd go with a Ver9 RA. Or just sell out and get a USDM 257...lol
I can't remember, are you running on the stock Ver5 Type-R ej207?
And was it a stock block? Or did you throw a forged aftermarket Rod?
I must say bro, every time I read that first post of yours, I get pretty envious. That's quite the mod list. All great parts. Im hoping my budget allows for half that list. Most of my $$$ is going Into the engine and heads, and can't forget the $1300 for the Link. Lol... The total adds up so quick!!!
I can't remember, are you running on the stock Ver5 Type-R ej207?
And was it a stock block? Or did you throw a forged aftermarket Rod?
I must say bro, every time I read that first post of yours, I get pretty envious. That's quite the mod list. All great parts. Im hoping my budget allows for half that list. Most of my $$$ is going Into the engine and heads, and can't forget the $1300 for the Link. Lol... The total adds up so quick!!!
#101
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Hey Goffemannen,
By any chance do you see any of the Standard Ver5 STi RA's around ur area? I have been searching high and low for some, and I'm coming up short. I've found maybe 2 during my search. I'm looking for some parts from one to complete my build. So if by any chance you come across any parts from a Ver5/6 standard White STi RA, let me know PLEASE! Lol... Or maybe someone who is turning there RA into a track/rally car and are getting rid of parts etc...
In particular, I am looking for a set of Ver4/5/6 STi RA manual door cards. I have been looking for awhile now, and I'm down to the last resorts, which is why I'm asking you.. Haha I normally wouldn't ask someone for help like this, but I'm Desperate!
By any chance do you see any of the Standard Ver5 STi RA's around ur area? I have been searching high and low for some, and I'm coming up short. I've found maybe 2 during my search. I'm looking for some parts from one to complete my build. So if by any chance you come across any parts from a Ver5/6 standard White STi RA, let me know PLEASE! Lol... Or maybe someone who is turning there RA into a track/rally car and are getting rid of parts etc...
In particular, I am looking for a set of Ver4/5/6 STi RA manual door cards. I have been looking for awhile now, and I'm down to the last resorts, which is why I'm asking you.. Haha I normally wouldn't ask someone for help like this, but I'm Desperate!
Last edited by WelDun1; 08 August 2013 at 12:03 PM.
#103
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It's been a long time ago since I updated this thread. But now things is about to happen. The engine will be taken out in a week and examined to whats damaged. Then a new forged 2.1L semi closed deck block will be ordered. Heads will be refurbished and then all put together will new gaskets and so on.
Will be running in the engine for a while until my vacation weeks starts in july. Then it's time for new injectors, a fpr, parallel conversion, billet fuel rails and a new better e85 rated fuel pump.
Then the car will be taken to the mapper for a remap och e85. Hoping to squeeze some extra hp out of that vf28 =). I recon to get around 360bhp with e85.
Will be running in the engine for a while until my vacation weeks starts in july. Then it's time for new injectors, a fpr, parallel conversion, billet fuel rails and a new better e85 rated fuel pump.
Then the car will be taken to the mapper for a remap och e85. Hoping to squeeze some extra hp out of that vf28 =). I recon to get around 360bhp with e85.
#104
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Today I was down in the garage preparing for tuesday when the engine will be lifted out. After I removed the ac-compressor I saw some more damage on the block. I wounder how much off it that isn't damage
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Today the engine was lifted. Went pretty smooth. Tomorrow I hope I will have time to split the engine and look at the damage. But one this is sure. That is that one of the heads have some damage since one of the cams is pretty much stuck . And one valve is bent.
#108
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Work continued today. Got the other head of and that look fine. No damaged at all. Got some other bits of asswell. Last of all I got the sump of and boy there was a lot of stuff there . Sadly the oil pickup was damaged . A new one from Killer B Motorsport cost £110!!
There's some things missing here...
Oh. Here they are
There's some things missing here...
Oh. Here they are
#109
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The project is moving forward. The old engine is completely disassembled now. I also took a closer look on the head with damage valves. I removed the valves and the heads look fine. No cracks. So the heads will probably be out for sale later.
Here is a link with some pictures on the old engine for those who's interested.
http://www.djfoto.se/bilder/subba/mo...bum/index.html
The new engine is on it's way getting build right now. Andy at Williams Motorsport got the privilege to do it.
The spec looks like this:
Low milage 2.0L semi closed deck block
> block border and faces skimmed
> new genuine 79mm heat treated sti crank
> acl race bearings
> Williams I-beam rods
> Mahle 4032 pistons
> genuine subaru 11mm oil pump
> new front and rear crank seals/block seals
> all other seals as required
> refurbished low milage v5 STI heads, grinded in valves, decked/skimmed surface etc
> Rocker Cover Gaskets
> Plug Seal Gaskets
> rocker cover Bolt Washer Seals
> Oil Separator Gasket
> half moon seals
> Supertech valve steam seals
> crank shaft oil seals
> RCM head gaskets
> COSWORTH ULTIMATE head studs
Andy was going through some of the parts today, he found that the block has perfect std bores and it would be a shame to re-bore it. And mahle don't do stroker pistons in 2.1 height, but he said however that he can build it with Mahle 2.0 pistons but use his stroker rods,, they are I beam and -2mm so we can fit std 2.0 pistons, He use this set-up in his rally car and many other 2.1's.
Here is a link with some pictures on the old engine for those who's interested.
http://www.djfoto.se/bilder/subba/mo...bum/index.html
The new engine is on it's way getting build right now. Andy at Williams Motorsport got the privilege to do it.
The spec looks like this:
Low milage 2.0L semi closed deck block
> block border and faces skimmed
> new genuine 79mm heat treated sti crank
> acl race bearings
> Williams I-beam rods
> Mahle 4032 pistons
> genuine subaru 11mm oil pump
> new front and rear crank seals/block seals
> all other seals as required
> refurbished low milage v5 STI heads, grinded in valves, decked/skimmed surface etc
> Rocker Cover Gaskets
> Plug Seal Gaskets
> rocker cover Bolt Washer Seals
> Oil Separator Gasket
> half moon seals
> Supertech valve steam seals
> crank shaft oil seals
> RCM head gaskets
> COSWORTH ULTIMATE head studs
Andy was going through some of the parts today, he found that the block has perfect std bores and it would be a shame to re-bore it. And mahle don't do stroker pistons in 2.1 height, but he said however that he can build it with Mahle 2.0 pistons but use his stroker rods,, they are I beam and -2mm so we can fit std 2.0 pistons, He use this set-up in his rally car and many other 2.1's.
#110
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Update. Andy is done with the engine and will have it shipped out today. I also received the new clutch and flywheel yesterday.
ACT HD 6 puck clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel.
ACT HD 6 puck clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel.
#120
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Long Time No talk! Your Car looks Great man! The Engine Build came out nice! I finally have my build done..well 90% atleast.
I finally realized what you were talking about with the # of Digital Inputs. since i dont have AC im just going to use the DI6 for my Clutch Switch. The shop that tuned my car used the DI5 for my MAP for some odd reason. I need to have that switched up.
Any ways... My Clutch MC & Slave went out, so i had to order those(not easy to find the MC in the states) but other than that, its running. Im not making the power that i should be, but i blame that on the poor tune!
Your Pics are Awesome as always! Any more plans, or are you happy for now?
I finally realized what you were talking about with the # of Digital Inputs. since i dont have AC im just going to use the DI6 for my Clutch Switch. The shop that tuned my car used the DI5 for my MAP for some odd reason. I need to have that switched up.
Any ways... My Clutch MC & Slave went out, so i had to order those(not easy to find the MC in the states) but other than that, its running. Im not making the power that i should be, but i blame that on the poor tune!
Your Pics are Awesome as always! Any more plans, or are you happy for now?