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So what kind of price are we talking about to buy one the same year as yours that forged, and if one cant be found what the price to forge one brownpantsracing ?.
So what kind of price are we talking about to buy one the same year as yours that forged, and if one cant be found what the price to forge one brownpantsracing ?.
you can get a 2014 model for around £17k now and a good nut and bolt rebuild with decent parts will be £4k-£5k
you can get a 2014 model for around £17k now and a good nut and bolt rebuild with decent parts will be £4k-£5k
Yep, agree with above & worth every penny. My local Subaru dealership are selling a 2015 model for £21.5k at the moment, but can buy them cheaper privately obviously.
Let the wife drive my car for the first time yesterday. Need new underpants now.
I am still awaiting a response from MeisterR on coilovers for my car, so for the time being I just went for good quality lowering springs on the standard shocks. I ended up going for H&R Sport springs for the STI and you just can't get them over here in the UK at the moment, which is very annoying. Most lowering springs available only offer 10-15mm drop max, which is nearly pointless in my opinion. The H&R Springs offer slightly more drop and all reviews I have seen have been singing their praises. Will allow me to get the wheels fitted and enjoy the car while I toy with the idea of coilovers again on my daily for a bit longer.
Just a heads up, the rear camber isn't adjustable. So when lowered it will likely put the camber out of spec by quite a bit.
Only way to adjust camber is adjustable lower control arms or swap the bushing in the existing control arm for one that takes a camber bolt esque thing. Whiteline do both.
Just a heads up, the rear camber isn't adjustable. So when lowered it will likely put the camber out of spec by quite a bit.
Only way to adjust camber is adjustable lower control arms or swap the bushing in the existing control arm for one that takes a camber bolt esque thing. Whiteline do both.
Yep, I found that too mate thanks for the heads up. The adjustable camber bolt arrangement offers +/-0.75 deg and is just over £100 or so. I'll probably go with that to start with, but may see what the camber comes out to first before I purchase. It will automatically get more negative camber when you lower it and my previous cars have run up to -2deg with no issues.
I will also be getting the rear subframe locking kit from Scoobyworx once Darrell fixes the slight glitch with that product on his site. He kindly added it for me yesterday but the site wouldn't let me order for some reason.
The problem for me wasn't the amount of camber, but the difference from one side to the other.
Interested regarding that rear subframe locking kit though. Let me know how you get on.
Subframe locking kit should get rid of that with any luck, it centralises and retains everything. There are massive voids in the standard bushes and the subframe moves loads changing the geometry on the rear end a lot. I fitted locking bolts to the rear of my Forester STI and it made a massive difference and also kept everything in place so whenever the camber and tracking were checked it was spot on every time. Before fitting the locking bolts every time you checked the rear it would be different.
Keep an eye on them pro r wheels the coating is very thin and my started flaking off in places after 6 months.
Thanks for the heads up. To be honest they only do them in 3 colours and this was the best pic of the bunch and I'm not 100% certain on the colour anyhow. My mate owns his own bodyshop so I'd already thought about spraying them gloss black even before I fit them for a more aggressive look. If and when the coating starts to go I'll get them done and change the look of the car.
So to compliment the springs that are going on I've today ordered a few bits from Darrell @ Scoobyworx. Great guy, always so helpful and always happy to take my money!
KDT938 Whiteline KDT938 Rear Subframe - mount bushing kit
KCA326 Whiteline KCA326 - Rear Control arm upper inner bushing camber correction kit
KCA414 Whiteline KCA414 Camber adjusting bolt kit for front
Hopefully I'll get a chance to fit it all when I do the springs.
Also decided to order a new set of TPMS sensors for the new wheels too. My mate has the brand new equipment to code them up and copy the original wheel sensor codes to the new TPMS sensors so my car will then see both sets of wheels just fine. Will make life much easier.
On Saturday I fitted my brand new header tank and pipework and yesterday afternoon I decided to crack on and fit the ChargeSpeed front bumper splitter. Was actually easier to take the front of the car apart and the bumper completely off to remove the current HT Autos splitter carefully and line the new splitter up so I could drill and bolt it securely to the bumper. I've had splitters fall off and get knocked off using just those horrible self tapping screws before, so always massively over-engineer the fitting of these now to make sure they are solid.
Old HT Autos Splitter.
Bumper off:
New splitter installed and re-assembled. Sorted!
In my opinion the ChargeSpeed spitter suits the bumper much better. The standard bumper has an odd rake to the sides and comes up towards the front which never looked right in my opinion. The HT Autos Splitter fits flush and level to the bottom of the standard bumper so also rakes up towards the front and down at the wheels. The ChargeSpeed unit levels that optical illusion out sitting lower at the front and looks more aggressive to boot.
My tyres are getting fitted to my new Rota wheels as I type this and all my new Whiteline suspension goodies arrived today. So next stop is to get all the suspension bits fitted and then the wheels on after that followed by a full alignment and camber setup.
looking great mate, were you not tempted to offer up the perrin fmic to see how it looks?
haha. Yes I was indeed, but I didn't start this job until very late in the day yesterday and told the wife it would only take me half hour tops for the whole job. Then I proceeded to take the bumper off the car!
So I was a bit pressed for time to get it back together asap before the kids went to bed and I got told off by the wife yet again.
Happy wife happy life. Normally.
Can easily get it all apart again when I get a chance to have a measure up.
haha. Yes I was indeed, but I didn't start this job until very late in the day yesterday and told the wife it would only take me half hour tops for the whole job. Then I proceeded to take the bumper off the car!
So I was a bit pressed for time to get it back together asap before the kids went to bed and I got told off by the wife yet again.
Happy wife happy life. Normally.
Can easily get it all apart again when I get a chance to have a measure up.
yeah i hear ya brother........gotta keep the woman happy if we intend to keep our boys toys
Christ those TPMS sensors can work out expensive. Work done was: Swap over & fitting of 8 tyres, 1 new Goodyear tyre, 1 tyre repair on winter tyre, 4 new TPMS sensors, 8 valves for TPMS sensors, programming of new sensors to clone old sensors.
Considering I only have 1 new tyre to show out of this lot the bill came to £500 at a mates garage. He saved me a fortune compared to other places.
Anyhow, rant over. Pics below.
Wheels not getting fitted until suspension is all done.
cant wait to see it with the new rims on mate, you must be champing at the bit right now
Yep, you're not kidding mate. They are sitting patiently in my garage now awaiting fitting and I just want to get it all fitted. Got a busy weekend coming up so no chance it will be this weekend. grrrrrrr.
Although that said Don, have you heard of a way to shut the TPMS system off completely and get rid of the warning light on the dash? I see no real point in this system and would rather not have it anyway.
Originally Posted by Don Clark
You would need to ask someone who has experience of setting the system up and how it interacts/is integrated with other systems under SSM.
It has a separate control module and is linked into the Body Integrated Unit/CAN communication system
Yes it can be customised in the Integrated unit via SSM4 to be told it doesn't exist on that vehicle
Hello mate, yep I've been chasing a teething problem since I bought the car which has been annoying me a lot. It has been losing the smallest amount of coolant from somewhere and every few days I have been having to add a small amount to the header tank to get it back to the right level. I know it's not head gasket consumption as I have been finding coolant on the floor in very tiny amounts and on the engine under tray, plus the coolant looks brand new inside the engine.
So it's been into the Subaru Main stealers once already just after I bought it and they did a coolant system pressure test and told me they found the smallest leak coming from under the high pressure expansion bottle coming from the lower surge tank hose. They put a new clip round the house and hoped they'd sorted it out and while I lost even slightly less coolant from doing this it kept slowly dropping. I decided to order a brand new expansion bottle from ICP at £120 and a brand new lower hose FROM AMERICA as they didn't have any in the UK or Europe. Give me strength. I then designed loads of 3D printed stopper plugs and when it all finally arrived a month ago I changed it all myself without losing coolant. I'm glad to say that the bottom hose had slight damage to it so that was certainly the cause of one of the leaks, the original tank was fine though.
So I ran the car for a few days and it lost even less coolant, but was still losing it regularly onto the belly tray. I put it back into Subaru again Friday just gone for a 2nd pressure test on the coolant system and they looked at it for 2.5 hours trying to find it. I'm pleased to say that we have finally located the leak. Which I'm not pleased to say is a pain to fix. It's possibly coming from one of the hard coolant lines on the turbo which has been bent and damaged somehow and definitely leaking from one of the banjo bolt fittings through the coolant lines into the turbo. I know why too and I'm not happy.
So the VF48 turbo has to come back off the car again now to get this properly fixed as it just can't be done on the car. I'm already £380+ down in costs trying to find this leak, albeit a very small one. To do this properly and if the turbo comes off then I'll need new hard lines, new banjo bolts, new COPPER washers, new coolant, new 10-60 race oil and filter plus Rich @ FB quoted 4 hours to do the job.
Alyn @ AS is currently quoting me for the parts and when I get these I'll either do it myself or get Rich to sort it if I don't get time.
So annoying, but at least I've finally tracked it down.
In better news this Saturday I have agreed with the wife that I can have a day to get all the suspension parts fitted to the car! Finally!!!!!
15 September 2018, 06:03 PM
The adjustable camber bolt arrangement offers +/-0.75 deg and is just over £100 or so. I'll probably go with that to start with, but may see what the camber comes out to first before I purchase. It will automatically get more negative camber when you lower it and my previous cars have run up to -2deg with no issues.
