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Thanks, It's certainly getting there. I think I had the only one in the country without a splitter & just a few little mods have sweetened it up
I actually quite like the sleeper look (about as sleeper as it can be with that spoiler & scoop), currently badge-less apart from the grill & only has the decals on the doors...
So problem:
Solution :
It instantly looked low at the front after dropping it off the axle stands (like the splitter was going to hit the floor). I swear it's taller at the back though
Not overly fussed, I am sure it'll settle down with the springs bed in & then I can get an alignment done. It noticeably feels firmer & seems to roll less (however given the fact I just dropped it, also I have no idea where the camber was set & just shoved the bolts back in wherever & also just noticed one of my front drop links are broken inital impressions are good ).
Wondering is this happened when I took the strut out & dropped the hub assembly (or whatever it's called, used to motorbikes)...
You can get a set of genuine drop links from import car parts on ebay for not that much,,, got eilbach springs on mine too did you make sure you put the front springs on the front and visa versa great work so far fella anyway alyways look in on your thread
Last edited by Russell38; 03 February 2019 at 08:03 PM.
The spring sits in a rubber housing in the bottom of the shock you need to rotate it so the end of the spring butts up against the stop if that makes sense.
you may have done this but it's a possible cause or it may just settle
You can get a set of genuine drop links from import car parts on ebay for not that much,,, got eilbach springs on mine too did you make sure you put the front springs on the front and visa versa great work so far fella anyway alyways look in on your thread
Got a set coming mate, I order all my bits from ICP. I was under the impression lowering springs were a no go, but everyone who had Eibach's spoke highly off them so here we are
My front strut brace is waiting for me at work so I'll drop that, the rear brace & the anti-roll bar into the powder coaters & it's booked into Subaru 4 U Tuesday to skint me off
There's pics of the stock & new springs side by side as I was swapping them out - Pretty sure they're on right
Originally Posted by wrx2005
The spring sits in a rubber housing in the bottom of the shock you need to rotate it so the end of the spring butts up against the stop if that makes sense.
you may have done this but it's a possible cause or it may just settle
Yes mate, did that. Rotated them anti-clockwise until the spring locked in place. You **** me up there making me think I'd mess something right up
Rears: Eibach on the left, original on the right...
*Cable ties are there to identify which are from the drivers side.
Last edited by Kaosone; 03 February 2019 at 10:47 PM.
Got a set coming mate, I order all my bits from ICP. I was under the impression lowering springs were a no go, but everyone who had Eibach's spoke highly off them so here we are
My front strut brace is waiting for me at work so I'll drop that, the rear brace & the anti-roll bar into the powder coaters & it's booked into Subaru 4 U Tuesday to skint me off
There's pics of the stock & new springs side by side as I was swapping them out - Pretty sure they're on right
They are labelled in german for left and right rear and left and right front what i found strange was the rear springs on the eilbach were taller than the fronts ie longer spring might be worth checking you got them the right way round
They are labelled in german for left and right rear and left and right front what i found strange was the rear springs on the eilbach were taller than the fronts ie longer spring might be worth checking you got them the right way round
That I did not know...
I compared the springs & they were wound the same way & I saw no physical difference between the pairs (looked like 2 fronts & 2 rears).
Google translate says:
Right = Recht
Left = Links
My right springs say "D/V" on & the left say "E/V" (the way I've installed them).
Last edited by Kaosone; 03 February 2019 at 08:48 PM.
My right springs say "D/V" on & the left say "E/V" (the way I've installed them).
This is the difference between the front & rear's: Rears say E/U, fronts say D/V...
This is both the front springs still in the box, both say "D/V" & have the same part number on so they're identical which means no dedicated right of left (the PDF instructs list the packing list as "2 front springs, 2 rear springs" so doesn't specify right or left...
It also went for the 100k service today (@ 100,479 ) @ Subaru for U...
Engine oil & filter
Gearbox oil
Front & rear diff oil
Power steering fluid
Coolant flush
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Compression test
Cambelt & tensioner
Fixed my headlights & the release catch for the boot
My braided lines never showed up (as royal mail heard it was going to snow) so they didn't get fitted & therefore the brakes didn't get bled.
But I'll be going back to have an alignment & fast road geometry setup once my springs (which are awesome & the car rides so much better in all areas) settle
Last edited by Kaosone; 07 February 2019 at 02:23 PM.
Love the stealth look! I'm planning something similar with my engine bay (all black everything) =)
Black is neutral, not only because the car is black, but it's subtle. If you do everything in your engine bay black it all just blends in & at a glance nothing stands out which is the way I like it.
To a degree it should help hide what a mess of hoses & crap the engine bay is too.
Black is also faster
Last edited by Kaosone; 10 February 2019 at 11:48 AM.
"Next up as I want my neighbors to think I am weird I washed my car 3 times today, a de-grease, a 2nd de-grease to remove any heavy dirt & missed followed by a shampoo, towel dry & this..."
Got the same feeling everytime mate...
Bushes: I'll get the shop to do it when they have it on the lift
Washing: I swear I can feel them looking out the window at me thinking "that **** is at it again, doesn't he know it'll only get dirty again"
Last edited by Kaosone; 07 February 2019 at 07:26 PM.
Every delivery is a step closer to getting it to a point where all the little jobs are done & I can leave it alone for a while...
Clockwise from top left: Braided brake lines (black obviously), replacement front drop link, Whiteline gear shift kit & original Super Pro bush only which is now surplus to requirements (has a hot date lines up with eBay). All these (except the Super Pro bush) can go to Subaru 4 U & get fitted when the car goes for it's alignment / geometry setup
The Whiteline kit not only has the bush, but also has a mad bracket thing which keeps the actual lever in check (far superior)...
The Whiteline black bush is noticeable very solid in comparison the the Super Pro bush. It's quite obvious when you compare the two why people rate Whiteline for competition use & SuperPro are more suited to a road car.
Obviously this kit if for the gearshift so harder will translate to more direct feel & won't compromise ride (like a hard suspension bush)
h
k
So there, need to get the alignment & all of the above sorted & that's what I am classing as the final stage of my 100k service.
Still waiting on the rear ARB & strut braces from the powder coaters - I need to drive the car hard after the alignment & decide if I actually need the rear ARB as the car is so much more composed on the Eibach springs it may not be necessary now (yes really )
I also bit the bullet & ordered the back box I want, the baffle in my ProDrive is lose so it rattles (only noticeable when you're outside the car with it running, but I know it needs replacing & that combined with the fact I appear to have lost all restraint with credit cards when it comes to car parts means I ordered one
Still haven't booked my alignment & I am waiting on the strut braces & ARB from the powder coaters, but in the mean time Hayward & Scott were nice enough to send me this (even if they did send me a 3" gasket to go with it)
Last edited by Kaosone; 01 December 2019 at 06:57 PM.
Still haven't booked my alignment & I am waiting on the strut braces & ARB from the powder coaters, but in the mean time Hayward & Scott were nice enough to send me this (even if they did send me a 3" gasket to go with it
A tank of fuel later & it's still glossy, but it does match the air vents & instrument surround.
You can see from this pic the colour difference (STI decal = 30mm)...
They Jury's still out but I may paint the outer section of the airbag in satin black, apply the decal to the gloss centre & then lacquer the whole lot to seal the STI badge in....?
The nice peep's @ Hayward & Scott sent me out a 2.5" gasket next day so I can crack on with that....
I picked up more shiny bits from the powdercoaters today along (even if they did come with an invoice that was double what I was expecting )...
The car noticeably rolls a lot less & is far more composed with the Eibach springs fitted, however I've got this 22mm Whiteline adjustable bar now & if I don't fit it I'll never know what it's like so Funk it
Last edited by Kaosone; 01 December 2019 at 06:58 PM.
Hayward & Scott 2.5" angled Jap back Box with 4.5" outlet ....
Looking at the design you can see why they recon there's a 2 - 3BHP gain to be had over a straight design when you see how less restrictive the flow path is
2-3BHP or not I just like the angled design
Shiny ARB & back box together (I had to torque the drop link bolts with the car on the floor so not much to see after dropping it off the axle stand)...
First impression: "Funk me it's loud" - I actually recon my MPG is going to sky rocket as I am paying great attention to feathering the throttle, keeping the Rev's below 2,000
Second impression: the car's solid on the road with the ARB on the softest setting, I haven't pushed too hard as I am still due an alignment & also it's changed the feel of the car quite a bit too (I swear the steering feels heavier ). It noticably crashes over bumps more, not harsh or badly, just noticeably more.
Having driven it up until it got dark I have a feel for the ARB now, so tomorrow I'll do the strut braces so I can compare the two (as opposed to bolting them all on at once & not know what effected what).
Hayward & Scott 2.5" angled Jap back Box with 4.5" outlet ....
Looking at the design you can see why they recon there's a 2 - 3BHP gain to be had over a straight design when you see how less restrictive the flow path is
2-3BHP or not I just like the angled design
Shiny ARB & back box together (I had to torque the drop link bolts with the car on the floor so not much to see after dropping it off the axle stand)...
First impression: "Funk me it's loud" - I actually recon my MPG is going to sky rocket as I am paying great attention to feathering the throttle, keeping the Rev's below 2,000
Second impression: the car's solid on the road with the ARB on the softest setting, I haven't pushed too hard as I am still due an alignment & also it's changed the feel of the car quite a bit too (I swear the steering feels heavier ). It noticably crashes over bumps more, not harsh or badly, just noticeably more.
Having driven it up until it got dark I have a feel for the ARB now, so tomorrow I'll do the strut braces so I can compare the two (as opposed to bolting them all on at once & not know what effected what).
To be continued
out of all the mods I have done on my car the front and rear roll bars probably made the biggest differce to the way the car cornered flatter than a witches tit
out of all the mods I have done on my car the front and rear roll bars probably made the biggest differce to the way the car cornered flatter than a witches tit
I was lead to believe that if you uprated the front ARB it made the car skittish on our lovely UK roads?
And yes, you just nailed it - The car stays flat in the corners
Did you do front and rear i run 22 front 24 rear my turn in feels sharper too
No just adjustable 22mmm rear on the ***** setting
I was lead to believe stiffening up the front made the car skittish so figured I'd just do the back & drive it to get a feel for it & then I could always do the front down the line if needed...
As it stands just the rear has massively sorted the car so I am happy with it for now (& it was probably around 1/2 the cost of doing both).
Originally Posted by wrx2005
Love your hard work in this thread.
turning out to be a well sorted blob sti
Awwwwww, thanks mate
I think "my stage 1" (the first round of refinements to sweeten it up until I've decided the credit card has had too much of beating & lay off it for a while) is nearly complete.
Life has been getting in the way so a remap isn't the cards this time round but at least it gives me something to look forward too
So as well as the rear ARB I also got my strut braces powdercoated (can't be dealing with shady eBay blue or pink ends & shinyness braces )...
So with the rear seat out again (actually I didn't put it back in since doing the springs ) for access to the strut tops, get those mounts in place & the fit the brace bar...
Well that's not happening
After a lot of swearing I actually had to bolt it all together loosely (at which point the mounts wouldn't go anywhere near the strut threads) then force the bar up with a jack so I could get the mounts bolted in & then drop the jack out & tighten the securing bots up
A) Black &/or powdercoat is good (I don't notice it when I open the boot)
B) No "£29 on eBay" pink crap
C) Doesn't get in the way at all (I can still fit two dead hookers in there)
D) I was going to replace the M10 hardware with A4 stainless but like **** I am ever going anywhere near it ever again
E) Isn't shiny!
The front one went in a piece of ****, looks slick in black, isn't shiny (it's glossy ) & no shiny or blue under the bonnet either
After another test drive you can feel the extra stiffness of the strut braces on top of the rear ARM (hence why I didn't fit them all in one hit).
Then the car went back to Subaru 4 U in Newbury for:
Fit braided lines & bleed brakes
Replace the broken front drop link
Wheel alignment & Prodrive fast road geometry setup
Instantly the steering is sharp as hell & it seems like I have to turn the wheel less now, the car really wants to fly through a corner
However...
It's still on the shagged Yokohama winter tyres the Rota GRA's came with & the thing seems to want to throw itself around a bit when getting on it hard so I am guessing winter tyres don't do well when it's 12 degrees outside
Next step is to get a shiny Michellin Pilot Sport 4's fitted in each corner & go get a feeling for how it actually works... With grip
Last edited by Kaosone; 20 February 2020 at 09:02 PM.
Those Yokohama's are shot / dangerous & I don't like living on the edge that much.
This weekend I went to install this black intake manifold (was a bare metal WRX one I hit with gloss Hammerite) this weekend along with the new gaskets...
I started the process of pulling off the stock intake manifold (Red, ewwww ) to replace it, get in there & clean up some spilled coolant marks from when the original metal overflow tank split & Hammerite the edges of the intercooler for added stealthiness & stealth all the little brackets etc which came off with the removal of the manifold.
But about 10 minutes into it realised I really couldn't be arsed to do that with all the hoses & crap everywhere & the hundred odd bolts that would need removing
Maybe it's something I'll do down the line but for now I think I'll just shove those bits & pieces back on eBay & keep the bonnet shut
03 February 2019, 07:56 PM
:
).
) @ Subaru for U...
)
)...
- I actually recon my MPG is going to sky rocket as I am paying great attention to feathering the throttle, keeping the Rev's below 2,000 
). It noticably crashes over bumps more, not harsh or badly, just noticeably more. 
) to replace it, get in there & clean up some spilled coolant marks from when the original metal overflow tank split & Hammerite the edges of the intercooler for added stealthiness & stealth all the little brackets etc which came off with the removal of the manifold. 
