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That looks like a lot of fun!
the new clutch was fitted last weekend (thanks Tim Farmer!) and I've now done 100 miles so it's just nicely bedded in. I have to say that the day after it was fitted I was really concerned, it was a nightmare to drive; juddering and really hard to control. But it gradually got better through the week.
I've got superpro ARB bushes front and rear.
the rear was fairly straight forward to change. My only tip is that if possible keep the weight of the car on the wheels to keep everything aligned. The fronts looked like hard work (Mr Farmer did mine). You're going to need some axle stands (or a lift) and a decent torque wrench as the front subframe has to come down in order to get at the bush brackets.
If you've got the car up in the air and a torque wrench handy have you thought about adding a h brace?
Thanks, yep I will have a look at the h brace options, I have a front strut brace but that's it. I haven't had a good look under the front end to know what sort of state it's in, but given that everything except the PPP kit was stock when I got the car and it's done over 100K miles, I suspect there will be a fair few things that will be seized or need replacing. I will probably do the rear and see how tough it is before deciding whether to do the front myself or take it to the local specialist.
Hope your clutch continues to improve. And yes, Silverstone was brilliant fun and I finished 15th out of 140 or so competitors, so very chuffed with that! Last time I was on a track in the Scooby it was the brakes that were the weakest link. This time it was body roll, but I did start to want more power too...
This mod has to be the dirtiest job I've done on this car...
New Side Skirts!
These are from ebay, the seller insisted they were prodrive versions from a bug, however they look very similar to any STI skirts to me.
They needed a bit of TLC when they arrived, so I got hold of some of this:
and I picked up one of these for 99p
combined with some patience I managed to bring the skirts up pretty nicely.
once this was done it was off with the old straight wrx versions.
By far the hardest part was getting out the screw behind the front wheel as it was heavily crusted with 12 years of road filth.
the other panel studs need a fair amount of brute force to get out, so all had to be replaced.
For a 12 year old car in daily use the body and underside is in really good condition.
However there was some surface rust around the jacking points, so i gave everything a good clean with some car shampoo and a soft brush then got a can of this:
And gave everything a good spray.
Which should keep the rust gremlins off the sills for a bit longer.
Then it was a simple matter of lining up the new skirts and clipping them into place.
I'll get some proper pictures when I've give the wagon a decent clean, but here's a sneak preview...
Then I just needed plenty of this...
I gave the wagon a quick wash, so here's a pic with the skirts.
Unfortunately being black on black they don't show up that well on the photos. In the flesh they look good and I'm very happy with the result.
Not much to report, but I did give the wagon a proper wash. Carbon collective Snow foam and shampoo, then a coat of finishkare high temp paste wax.
Then, naturally, it rained, so here's some beading pictures.
The time this has taken has really, really pissed me off. I hate leaving things broken or half done so looking at this has been annoying to say the least.
How about you? Did you get your rear end sorted?
The time this has taken has really, really pissed me off. I hate leaving things broken or half done so looking at this has been annoying to say the least.
How about you? Did you get your rear end sorted?
I got delayed by having a misfire in cylinder 3, which was down to bad plugs, so I had to get a new set and a new plug spanner before I could sort that out, plus Easter got in the way. How much of a pain are the plugs to get to?! Also noticed some oil weeping out of the rocker covers so will need to sort that sometime.
The cheap STI ARB I got off ebay was covered in rust so I have cleaned that up and need to paint it, and I'm still picking up bits like droplinks and new ARB bushes, but hope to get the rear bar in over the next couple of weeks. Thinking of getting some camber bolts for the rear, then I'll get the geo done again, I haven't had it redone since getting the STI wheels which are on a slightly different profile to my old WRX ones.
I got delayed by having a misfire in cylinder 3, which was down to bad plugs, so I had to get a new set and a new plug spanner before I could sort that out, plus Easter got in the way. How much of a pain are the plugs to get to?! Also noticed some oil weeping out of the rocker covers so will need to sort that sometime.
The cheap STI ARB I got off ebay was covered in rust so I have cleaned that up and need to paint it, and I'm still picking up bits like droplinks and new ARB bushes, but hope to get the rear bar in over the next couple of weeks. Thinking of getting some camber bolts for the rear, then I'll get the geo done again, I haven't had it redone since getting the STI wheels which are on a slightly different profile to my old WRX ones.
Sorry to hear about the misfire, but at least it was only the plugs; I've heard they require a fair amount of disassembly in order to be able to get to them. I had a look at doing the rocker covers, but in the end Tim Farmer did them for me, which probably saved a day of skinned knuckles for me.
I did get camber bolts when I had the coilovers fitted, but they turned out to be not needed. Howver I've not got a very agressive geo setting.
I've got a few jobs lined up. I think the IACV needs a clean and a new gasket, and I also think the fuel pump is heading towards the end of its life so I'd like to replace it before it becomes an issue.
But I'm really waiting to get the doors fixed before I get the spanners out.
Last edited by Cambs_Stuart; 03 May 2017 at 11:55 AM.
Great news, and I'm sure it is good to be back in your wagon. My wife's been away this week so I've been in the garage every night and have fitted the STI rear ARB and droplinks, plus some camber bolts. Will take it for a spin tomorrow when she's back.
Also fitted a new battery (Yuasa YBX5005). Need it to restart in the airport car park after sitting for a week, which it probably wouldn't have done on the old battery! Can't believe nobody has worked out the battery drain issue lots of people seem to have, although I suppose it doesn't apply if yours is used daily.
Great news, and I'm sure it is good to be back in your wagon. My wife's been away this week so I've been in the garage every night and have fitted the STI rear ARB and droplinks, plus some camber bolts. Will take it for a spin tomorrow when she's back.
Also fitted a new battery (Yuasa YBX5005). Need it to restart in the airport car park after sitting for a week, which it probably wouldn't have done on the old battery! Can't believe nobody has worked out the battery drain issue lots of people seem to have, although I suppose it doesn't apply if yours is used daily.
Good to hear you've fitted that arb.
What did you use to paint it?I've also had a new battery recently (just a halfords heavy duty) but I haven't had much of an issue with drainage. I've even got a Bluetooth obd reader I leave plugged in which hasn't caused an issue so far.
Let me know how much difference the arb makes!
So, to counter act the front strut brace I picked up another m2 strut brace for the rear. However, no matter how much I try the brace is about 10mm too long. I suspect it's due to the narrower track on the wagon. Bollocks.
So, either I need to find a wagon specific version or I need to get a file and open up the slotted hole by another 10mm or so.
Last edited by Cambs_Stuart; 07 June 2017 at 02:45 PM.
Good to hear you've fitted that arb.
What did you use to paint it?I've also had a new battery recently (just a halfords heavy duty) but I haven't had much of an issue with drainage. I've even got a Bluetooth obd reader I leave plugged in which hasn't caused an issue so far.
Let me know how much difference the arb makes!
For the ARB, I wire brushed the rust off, treated it with some anti-rust stuff, painted it with etch primer, then some basic black paint (both paints were just rattle spray cans). Given what the ARB has to put up with in terms of grit, salt and water, there didn't seem much point in making it too pretty.
I haven't done much driving since putting the ARB on (with whiteline droplinks and superpro polybushes), but on the few occasions I've been able to chuck it round a corner, there was noticeably less understeer. Really need to get a proper geo alignment done again, I also fitted camber bolts to the rear and tried to keep the alignment to what it was (0.00) but don't really know what setting they're at now.
New battery has made a big difference to the starting, haven't left it for more than a week yet but previously it wouldn't start after 3 days and now it's absolutely fine.
So, to counter act the front strut brace I picked up another m2 strut brace for the rear. However, no matter how much I try the brace is about 10mm too long. I suspect it's due to the narrower track on the wagon. Bollocks.
So, either I need to find a wagon specific version or I need to get a file and open up the slotted hole by another 10mm or so.
Looks like there's plenty of meat left to be able to expand the hole, yeah. If you don't want to do that, wonder if there are classic/non-widetrack rear braces? I doubt there will be a wagon-specific one, but maybe the dimensions match with an older saloon type.
Stuart, I've been reading through this as inspiration for my own wagon - now I've finally got the noisy wheelbearing sorted I'm going to make a start on the other bits. You mentioned, way back on page 1, about the "Green contacts under the steering column" element of cleaning the boost solenoid. I can't find anything about this, are you able to expand at all? I've cleaned up the MAF and have some contact cleaner ready to go, but don't want to be spraying it around *****-nilly
Stuart, I've been reading through this as inspiration for my own wagon - now I've finally got the noisy wheelbearing sorted I'm going to make a start on the other bits. You mentioned, way back on page 1, about the "Green contacts under the steering column" element of cleaning the boost solenoid. I can't find anything about this, are you able to expand at all? I've cleaned up the MAF and have some contact cleaner ready to go, but don't want to be spraying it around *****-nilly
Will be following your ARB progress as well
If you look under the dash to the right of the steering column there are two unconnected green connectors. If you plug these together and turn on the ignition (but don't try to start the engine) then the fan will cycle on and off and various lights will start flashing. The boost solenoid will also click open and shut. So, take the solenoid off the car and remove boost/vac hoses (mark which one goes where!) but leave the electronic connections in place. Connect the green connectors and turn on ignition. Hold solenoid in a rag so you don't get solvent on paint work and squirt lots of carb cleaner in both ports while it's clicking. Then it should be properly clean.
Let the solvent dry then reverse all of the above and you're done.
Looks like there's plenty of meat left to be able to expand the hole, yeah. If you don't want to do that, wonder if there are classic/non-widetrack rear braces? I doubt there will be a wagon-specific one, but maybe the dimensions match with an older saloon type.
I was thinking the same. Currently the plan is to turn up at the machine shop at work with a big bag of cakes, flutter my eyelashes, hope I've caught them on a good day and they'll let me have 15 mins on a milling machine.
I've just fitted a cdf racing short shift lever I picked up cheaply from the for sale board. It was remarkably hard work.
Everything began very well. Removing the trim from around the gear lever takes seconds, and levering out the old unit required minimal effort.
This is where it all went wrong. From web based research I knew it was going to take some effort to get the lever back in the plastic cup, but nothing I tried worked.
In the end to fit the damm thing I put the new lever in the freezer to chill and used this combination: Not normally used to mod cars.
Which worked. It was a calculated risk. I already had a spare white cup and with no gear lever my car wasn't going anywhere.
The bushes used by cdf are a lot wider than oem so require some persuasion to fit. When Trying to get everything in place I noticed there were red drips on everything. It turns out some of the metalwork is quite sharp.
But it went together in the end:
This was a proper nightmare of a job. I should have hired a ramp, so I could access the white cup from underneath.
But the gear throw is now really, really short and precise. It's going to take some getting used to...
Last edited by Cambs_Stuart; 08 June 2017 at 04:34 PM.
If you look under the dash to the right of the steering column there are two unconnected green connectors. If you plug these together and turn on the ignition (but don't try to start the engine) then the fan will cycle on and off and various lights will start flashing. The boost solenoid will also click open and shut. So, take the solenoid off the car and remove boost/vac hoses (mark which one goes where!) but leave the electronic connections in place. Connect the green connectors and turn on ignition. Hold solenoid in a rag so you don't get solvent on paint work and squirt lots of carb cleaner in both ports while it's clicking. Then it should be properly clean.
Let the solvent dry then reverse all of the above and you're done.
I did this recently on my 173k Bug and have to be honest, didn't see any appreciable difference in colour of the solvent coming out. So either the solvent wasn't strong enough or the solenoid wasn't dirty. Maybe there are some mods that make the solenoids more prevalent to accumulating dirt?
On another note, I did attempt to flush out the vacuum hoses also. I pulled the rubber hose off the air intake and the vaccum line sheered off.....years of heat cycles had turned the rubber into brittle plastic. Fortunately I had just enough length to re-route the line and reconnect it. I've since replaced it with a new braided rubber line.
Looks like there's plenty of meat left to be able to expand the hole, yeah. If you don't want to do that, wonder if there are classic/non-widetrack rear braces? I doubt there will be a wagon-specific one, but maybe the dimensions match with an older saloon type.
They were standard fitment on Bug STi Wagons (at least I've seen them fitted to plenty) so I'm sure that wagon specific ones exist.
I've just fitted a cdf racing short shift lever I picked up cheaply from the for sale board. It was remarkably hard work.
Everything began very well. Removing the trim from around the gear lever takes seconds, and levering out the old unit required minimal effort.
This is where it all went wrong. From web based research I knew it was going to take some effort to get the lever back in the plastic cup, but nothing I tried worked.
In the end to fit the damm thing I put the new lever in the freezer to chill and used this combination: Not normally used to mod cars.
Which worked. It was a calculated risk. I already had a spare white cup and with no gear lever my car wasn't going anywhere.
The bushes used by cdf are a lot wider than oem so require some persuasion to fit. When Trying to get everything in place I noticed there were red drips on everything. It turns out some of the metalwork is quite sharp.
But it went together in the end:
This was a proper nightmare of a job. I should have hired a ramp, so I could access the white cup from underneath.
But the gear throw is now really, really short and precise. It's going to take some getting used to...
Let us know how you get on with it. It's definitely possible to have too short a throw, particularly if it is putting additional stress on the rest of the mechanism.
I'll see how I get on with the new shift, I really don't fancy undoing this mod! From just moving the car on the drive it feels very good; short, solid and precise. I hadn't heard of short shifters causing issues so I'll worry about that now...
I think with the rear brace it may be just because it was a cheap version. 5mm longer slot on both sides and it would have fitted perfectly.
I'll see how I get on with the new shift, I really don't fancy undoing this mod! From just moving the car on the drive it feels very good; short, solid and precise. I hadn't heard of short shifters causing issues so I'll worry about that now...
I think with the rear brace it may be just because it was a cheap version. 5mm longer slot on both sides and it would have fitted perfectly.
Having been for a drive I've found the short shift very stiff, so I've backed off the tensions on the nuts and re-greased the bush.
The adjustment of the short shift is really hard, once the **** is in place access to the grub screws is really tricky, but I've done it up as best I can for now.
I also had some issues with the momo ****. This was held in place with three grub screws that went through a mess of electrical tape and heat shrink insulation. So I've replaced it with this:
Which had a selection of plastic collars to help fit.
It's a toyota TRD copy, but really well weighted and nice soft leather.
Last edited by Cambs_Stuart; 10 June 2017 at 04:13 PM.
03 March 2017, 09:33 PM
