What brakes will fit under these wheels
 

Hiya, after a bit of advice/guidance..
Could someone tell me what front brake upgrade I'd be able to use with the 17inch wheels in the pic below please.

Also what's the best value for money option?
Future proofing for around 400 bhp in a 98 classic

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...D836F586E1.jpg
Steve

Not brembos.
just wrx 4 pots.

Are there not any other bigger brake kits that will fit?
Already have the 4 pots else.

My advice would be to talk to Alyn of ASPERFORMANCE or Ian of Godspeed for a definitive answer.SJ.

Not a lot, you could always try the 335kit if your not a hard track driver.

Ksport or D2 330mm will fit under 17" wrx wheels, also as said godspeed do two kits a 335mm using 4 pots or a 330mm using Ap 4pots

Those wheels are not very strong tbh (newage wrx and the similar sti wheels are weak due to their manufacturing technique), with that in mind - maybe select a better wheel for your big brake quest. The 16" classic STi wheels are stronger, but again only support 4 pots

it would maybe be better to get some blob sti v7 or 8 standard wheels that fit over the brembos.
you could pick both up off here fairly cheap.:thumb:

Thanks for the replies :)

Seems i have a lot to ponder then :wonder:

Brembo GT calipers would fit. WIlwoods too.

Gold Sti, Brembo's would go on the back.

"Seems I have a lot to ponder then "

Reading your start I see you have 4 pot front and 2 pot rears and 17 rims. Budget ?

Before you do anything spend 80 quid get some Dot5.1 and braided lines on.
Then spend another 100 for pads that suit your driving. Here I mean If you pootle around town don't get pads that need to reach temperature, otherwise you will run over zebras and little old ladies.

Then :

Busta has it wrapped in a sentence though "you could always try the 335kit if your not a hard track driver."

So If you don't fancy changing rims again then check these generalisations out.

If you don't like WRX typical initial understeer and don't track at all then don't bother just do the fronts. Do that first as most adhesion for retard is on the front due to nose dive weight transfer. Then if you want more bite use grooves, if you want cheap discs to crack use holes. If you hate dust use plain. If you want to stop once from cold very quickly 32mm thick is not for zebras crossing , but zebras like EBC reds and they don't care about rolling in dust.

On MY04-05 you can fit H6 legacy 11.4 inch discs at the rear with caliper adaptors & WRX 02-03 pads on 2 pots for a cost effective improvement to disc size (Although you would need to check its ok for your MY98 , I believe you need a different caliper adaptor kit. )

A rear mod would tend to keep original F-R bias as the changes you intend to make to the fronts will definite make the stock rear end a deal more lively. Particularly if your turn in style is OMG late/or if you can flick a bit.

I can't so when pushing on I tend to use in-bend trail braking (old school turbo fwd) and heat everything up with the left foot, which is quick for a couple of laps as you keep your right on the throttle avoiding T lag but while its satisfying to do after a couple of minutes the std brakes are only good to make toast. I doubt im faster in a WRX using the technique either.

For my WRX I need to keep the Std pots for TÜV reasons or else pay for Brembos /18's and have them both added to Registration doc for a fee that also ups my insurance , that's 2k I don't have now or when I bought the WRX instead of a STi. So brakes are always a comprimise to the size of your wallet.

So Im going on H6 Legacy rears and Godspeed 335 fronts with the EBC blue. These fit my Std 17 inch rims. But Ian at Godspeed says non OEM 17 inch wheels might have clearance issues , and the calipers are indeed very close on OEM. K sport 330mm are ok. The particular advantage of the Godspeed conversion or any with the bell 2 pc alu design for me is it helps keep heat out of the axel and caliper so an old left footed Elephant like me can stamp around for a while longer without boiling the fluid. A solid steel disc transfers this heat into the steel axel / caliper assembly far faster , and is death to my drive style.

If you have cash go AP you know it makes sense.

That should keep you pondering. Rgds Linksfahrer

Also 5.1 dot fluid is not really a good fluid, just a Oem type. Dot 4 racing type fluid is best like motul rbf 600 or 660 for the hardcore or similar.

Yes it is , its a high performance fluid , ok not as high performing as some fluids , but ok for me to win the Welsh tarmac rally championship in class in 2012 , I couldn't fade it all year on that , and a hell of a lot cheaper too.

I've used it too, and no problems if im honest but I'd rarther use a fluid that has more boiling point,
Isn't rallying not that heavy on brakes? So it ought to be fine.

You still following me :luvlove:

yes still following and correcting you ;)

Rallying not easy on brakes ?? lol , rallying is very very hard on brakes , especially if you can left foot brake as I do , the DOT 5.1 works very well , and only a tenner a litre

Race Brake Fluid
 

Also following and explaining why Ian knows this



Sorry I have to agree with Ian , its the best for 99% of us.


However Busta you may have been using a "Race" DOT 4 , and I expect you do change it very frequently because you like tracks. You may have had better results because of the Race spec and your disciplined service.

http://www.superhids.co.uk/brakes/br...ake-fluid.html

This example indeed shows Race DOT 4 at dry boiling point (312°C/593°F)


As for boiling points , they "should" be higher on DOT 5.1 most of the time in private cars. How many people change fluid if they over heat the brakes or for that matter 9k miles ? (note 5 handbook) UK should be so

or has it stopped raining for more than 30 minutes


Part of the issue with DOT4 is its viscosity, Brake feel ( that's subjectvie )

Race DOT 4 is not really DOT 4 because its viscosity is often well out of range. IF the hard pedal feel is an issue to you ( I don't mean eliminating air or water ) take a look at this technical information.


http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor...rs/brake-fluid

DOT 4 is the grade applicable to most race engineered brake fluid in the world today, especially with regard to viscosity limit. Note that although the DOT 4 designation has a minimum dry and wet boiling point, a DOT 4 racing brake fluid may have a dry boiling point over 600F. Its viscosity is challenged, however, to be under the viscosity limit of 1,800 mm2/sec. Some claimed racing brake fluids exceed this important limit.


Now some practical experience.


When I bought my 05WRXPPP , had just been serviced in UK with DOT 4.

I drove into Germany (where I live) and got it up to over 150mph on the new E40 stretch before Köln , I tried to slow quickly due to an incident ahead , and was horrified about the brake performance, Ok so I did all the basics I bought more Padgid DOT 4 and bled the system , changed the pads ( Mintex I trusted & knew ) and changed the discs all round ( stock but TRW ), nothing helped , everything gets to hot too quickly.

Even on the fresh DOT 4 its horrible to the point were if you do 5 times 60-0 you have little or no brakes left at all. Personally I tend to apply brakes like I were walking on ice, so a rock hard pedal is not for me but when the fluid boils you will know it as you pedal turns to a sponge often permanently. The last car where I felt the brakes were this inadequate was a Renault 11. I give 8 or 9 out of 10 for the rest of the WRX car but don't kid yourselves they are only a "5" just ok for 218 bhp "road use".


The DOT 5.1 is also Borate Ester/ Glycol Ether formula holds against this situation much longer but Stock WRX brakes are never going to be fade free, the discs heat dissapation ( which is what the thread is ultimately about simply cannot deal with the energy inertia ). One lap of the Nurburgring you're done. You have to come off or you'll become a moving chicane. on DOT 5.1 I can stop once ok from top speed. But that's not impressive to me , if you like a good trip out in Wales / Scotland or Pennine areas, do yourselves and everyone a favour and uprate your brakes. IF "must" drive in London leave it stock.


Never use DOT5.0 Silicone Based without alcohol flushing DOT4 out first.

otherwise it causes a reaction to semi congealled silicon gel. You have been warned.


Thanks Ralph . Always driving on the left.

Pagid DOT 4
 

Hi Busta , the reason why my experience with Pagid Dot 4 is so bad

has to do with its rather poor specification :

http://www.hella-pagid.com/hellapagi...d_DOT4_ENG.pdf

The Motul race fluid you quote has a much higher boiling point. :thumb:

Problem with pedal feel is down to which pads you use. And if chosen the correct pad with capable caliper you will NOT get fade, but if not you WILL at high speed braking or long usage. ;)