Does anyone know if switching the link (resistor) marked L1 on a 94uk Ecu would let you switch between ppp or standard settings??


Ie mount a switch.. switch on with engine off and have ppp and flick switch and then start engine and not have ppp..

David

btt

Sounds plausible - but why would you want to do it - surely there is no disadvantage of PPP - other than ECU Reset Error 43 ;)

I'm not sure, but think the link you're talking about makes the ecu select between onboard and offboard eproms for the map data.

The onboard eproms only has enough memory for one map (to my knowledge) - but I guess it's possible to have an offboard eprom and switch between the two. But why would you want to? In general you'd use the offboard solution so you could remap to the mods you've made to the car (no one can remap the OE eproms for the older cars)....and I guess you've made a few, lol!

Try talking to PE - they should know what you can do for your MY.

Richard

Just an Idea I have.. I want to know whether I can do it, so I can have a before and after comparison...

David

I would be cautious about switching it live as the ECU *COULD* crash and take your engine with it. I would not hope to switch between two ROMS on the fly unless the equipment was specifically specced to do so. Sounds like a potential nightmare.

:eek: Im not on about doing it live... Im on about with battery disconnected... just to whether it could be done temporarily... so I wouldnt have to split ecu and remove daughter board.

David

Sorry missed that bit on your post. Trouble is are you going to safetify the switch - what if knocked during driving etc, flicked by unknowing fingers etc?

It would just be temporary for a rolling road session so no problem.... I just dont want to be removing boards... I would like to know what difference I get from my intercooler, fuel pressure reg, fuel pump, fuel rail mods etc without the ecu changes..

David

In which case I don't think there will be a problem.

PS the link resistor to connect/disconnect is marked J1 - Note L1 exists & should remain intact.

Nice piccy here : http://lillith.sk.tsukuba.ac.jp/~kashima/car/jp1.jpg

Cheers,

Chris

Think I may have meant that!! didn't have the ecu to hand...

David

Link is J1 'NOT' L1.

A Switch is possible, and is on my list of to do's. will locate it next to my ECU Reset switch by my right knee in the cubby hole.

I think you might understand why I want it??

I knew which link / resistor it is to look at, but couldnt remember the label.

David