Central heating & hot water
Ok, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this.
The central heating in my house has been off for some time with the weather, and I have a power shower, so no need to heat the water either. So the other day, I decided on a soak in the bath, put the hot water on, and lo and behold, all the upstairs radiators came on full blast! It was like a furnace! Any ideas before I ring a central heating engineer? (Need a plumber anyway as one of the downstairs radiators leaks when it's on) Better still, any central heating engineers on here in the east mids want to come take a look? Lol |
My ch used to come on with only the hot water selected on the control panel. A motorised valve was faulty. More than likely something similar has happened to you, the valve has stopped in an open position or something.
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Do you own an adjustable?
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Originally Posted by scoobynutta555
(Post 11172013)
My ch used to come on with only the hot water selected on the control panel. A motorised valve was faulty. More than likely something similar has happened to you, the valve has stopped in an open position or something.
Originally Posted by dpb
(Post 11172027)
Do you own an adjustable?
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Neither do I google your symptoms. I have a British Gas service contract and they fixed it. I told them what I thought it was after googling, they confirmed and changed the part, all is fine now :)
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Originally Posted by scoobynutta555
(Post 11172039)
Neither do I google your symptoms. I have a British Gas service contract and they fixed it. I told them what I thought it was after googling, they confirmed and changed the part, all is fine now :)
I do have a plumber who's good, it's just getting hold of him! Lol |
A clue as to your system type would help loads...eg..combi...back boiler ..unvented etc
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Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172055)
A clue as to your system type would help loads...eg..combi...back boiler ..unvented etc
I can strip and rebuild a car, computer, or electronics, but heating? Nope, not a clue. Lol |
Same set up as me. I'm crap with cars though but run multi million pound machinery at work :)
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Originally Posted by scoobynutta555
(Post 11172075)
Same set up as me. I'm crap with cars though but run multi million pound machinery at work :)
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post a pic of your airing cupboard pipework
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Motorised valve by sound of it
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Motorized valve stuck in mid position, hit it with a hammer to free it up then order a new part before winter comes.
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7 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172100)
post a pic of your airing cupboard pipework
There's three pipes from the boiler, a heating "isolator" and the last unmarked switch is apparently the immersion switch. |
You have a 3 way valve,turn on heating and water seperately and note wether the marker on the valve moves to the selected points,it has 3 positions,hot water,heating and both.
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As above, your motorised valve has seized. It happens a lot.
You might be able to take the motor off and free up the valve itself by turning it with pliers. Once it's unstuck it might be perfectly OK again, provided the motor hasn't burned out. |
Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172126)
You have a 3 way valve,turn on heating and water seperately and note wether the marker on the valve moves to the selected points,it has 3 positions,hot water,heating and both.
It's also got a black switch on the side too... So if it stays in the middle that's both, water is one side and heating t'other... If it doesn't move, it's a new part job, or a gentle tap yeah? Thanks for this BTW!! :thumb: |
Originally Posted by AndyC_772
(Post 11172129)
As above, your motorised valve has seized. It happens a lot.
You might be able to take the motor off and free up the valve itself by turning it with pliers. Once it's unstuck it might be perfectly OK again, provided the motor hasn't burned out. :) |
Originally Posted by Frenchwood
(Post 11172132)
That's the "white box" on the pipe yeah? The one with the black switch in the middle?
It's also got a black switch on the side too... So if it stays in the middle that's both, water is one side and heating t'other... If it doesn't move, it's a new part job, or a gentle tap yeah? Thanks for this BTW!! :thumb: |
Assuming this actuator is at fault, How difficult are these to change? (On a Haynes Spanner scale) lol.
Is it a DIY job? Empty the system, change the part, refill with inhibitor and bleed? Or should I just call an engineer? If so, how much are we talking? Ta!! |
Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172140)
Yes the other black slider is a manual opener..if the valve doesnt move when heat is called for try releasing it with the manual opener....its odd if you havent used the heating for a while that its stuck in mid position,it defaults to hot water,inside theres a motor called a synchron...its an easy diy mend,but do the tests 1st. |
Radiators are definitely staying cool.
I'm happy with that! :luxhello: Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve! Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft. I'll check on the actuator again tomorrow and see if its still playing ball! Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated! :thumb: |
happy days..put some fernox in your heating tank
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Originally Posted by Frenchwood
(Post 11172159)
Radiators are definitely staying cool.
I'm happy with that! :luxhello: Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve! Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft. I'll check on the actuator again tomorrow and see if its still playing ball! Thanks for the help folks, much appreciated! :thumb: |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172160)
happy days..put some fernox in your heating tank
It's leaking from the bottom of the compression joint on the valve I've tightened it to a surreal level, and when the valve is on it still drips, turn it off, and it stops! Does it on both sides, I put it down to the fact the radiator isn't mounted properly. |
The clue is in the it doesnt leak when turned off....your leak is under the white cap...remove it...tighten the packing gland underneath...hey presto leak gone
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Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172174)
The clue is in the it doesnt leak when turned off....your leak is under the white cap...remove it...tighten the packing gland underneath...hey presto leak gone
It seemed to slow when I tightened the compression joints, the stopped as I turned them off, I just assumed it was the joint... Lol. See, better eyes see more clearly! I'd take you for a pint if you were close! Maybe you should send me your PayPal addy in PM pal, I'll send you a tenner to buy you some beer for your help!! Lol ;) :thumb: |
the packing glands tend to trickle un noticed...one thing plumbings taught me is keep going upwards until your sure its dry
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Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 11172190)
the packing glands tend to trickle un noticed...one thing plumbings taught me is keep going upwards until your sure its dry
Thanks again matey, I really do owe you some beers!! Lol :thumb: |
Originally Posted by Frenchwood
(Post 11172159)
Next job is to freeze the pipes before a valve on a radiator, and replace the leaky valve!
Not looking forward to that as I've just laid a new carpet in that room! Pfft. |
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