Originally Posted by *matthewturb2000*
(Post 11173841)
sorry to jump in guys, as you lot know about this subject would a td06 20g turbo be to much for my99 uk 2000 injectors,the car it took the turbo off had the same setup as mine (but mines a td04 16g at mo)
Or just sell the 20g to me :thumb: |
Originally Posted by *matthewturb2000*
(Post 11173843)
just see this also , says double your money back :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Genuin...20914949467%26 |
kwick ,ive got the yellows mine is phase 2, ive been searching for a big turbo for mine since i got the car lol its only 3 month old gleaming clean inside :)
jon, ill buy one get proof its fake send it back and get a double refund lol nahh not worth the hassle, i gota get a fpr im not in a overly rush to get my turbo on so if need bigger injectors ie pinks?i got a big japspeed fmic to go on aswell just got to get a fpr, and i wont be running 400 lol just want a modest 315-330 ish depends how safe and all that too ,its my daily driver(when its not broken) cheers guys :) |
Jon not sure if its genuine SARD,but from few forums posts looking like you have bought fake
http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index...howtopic=39446 http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/view...hp?f=4&t=41555 I would definitely speak with SARD and send them email with the pics Buying those FPR,is risk,due this I would everytime go with Fuelab or Aeromotive(AEM doesn't cost too much) Jura |
Jura what fpr would you recommend for to use with the braided lines?
Thanks |
Originally Posted by jura11
(Post 11173901)
Jon not sure if its genuine SARD,but from few forums posts looking like you have bought fake
http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index...howtopic=39446 http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/view...hp?f=4&t=41555 I would definitely speak with SARD and send them email with the pics Buying those FPR,is risk,due this I would everytime go with Fuelab or Aeromotive(AEM doesn't cost too much) Jura Worst case, it was a UK seller and not dispatched from overseas and I have a VAT receipt and warranty. |
And it's black, not blue:D
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Originally Posted by Kwik
(Post 11173903)
Jura what fpr would you recommend for to use with the braided lines?
Thanks We are using Fuelab and we never have problem with Fuelab,although older models have problems with the diaphragm when you are running methanol Aeromotive is good too,AEM have great reviews over in USA on several forums(just be sure you have with latest diaphragm,rebuild kit cost around £30) Jura |
Originally Posted by Kwik
(Post 11173903)
Jura what fpr would you recommend for to use with the braided lines?
Thanks |
Originally Posted by JonMc
(Post 11173911)
I definately have a genuine one - I have checked and the gauge and adaptor were added to the box. The fittings came in the sealed bag and the dots are on the return. The box is also the right one - I misread the posts about the gauge and have checked.
Worst case, it was a UK seller and not dispatched from overseas and I have a VAT receipt and warranty. I would personally check,this will cost you nothing,maybe few minutes yours time and at least you will know for sure,its genuine and not the fake and will not cost you engine Jura |
Trust me Jura, it's genuine - I've checked:thumb:
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I know quite a few people running between 4 and 500bhp with no parallel lines and cars have never missed a beat in years, I understand the running lean scenario these have on the last cylinder and when you hear it I think it scares a lot of people in to doing all this extra work, I fitted a fpr and just left the standard rails in place, and have just upgraded injectors to 650s and still left the rails in place, when andy forrest was asked last by a good friend on mind running 480 on a hawk, Andy's words were are you having fuelling problems, when told no he said well leave alone, so I think its one of those things that if it makes you feel better, do it, but if you are not having any problems then realistically there is no need, just my 2p worth, am running a billet 20g.
Grant |
Like I said Grant, it's a lot of work, but as I have the inlet off anyway it's not actually that much given that the inlet removal is a big chunk of the work. It also means I can smooth a lot more of the lugs off the manifold:D
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What's going on with the adaptor I've also bought same as jons. Are we sayin it won't come with the gauge or it won't be genuine? I thought the box contains everything ready for it to be fitted to existing fuel rails.
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Mine came with everything - they don't come as part of the package normally, but this guy adds the extras needed to make it a complete package:thumb:
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Phew cheers look forward to mines now.
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I've got this FPR on my car Fuelab.
I didn't pay anywhere near that price though, in fact, I didn't actually pay anything for it. :D |
Originally Posted by *matthewturb2000*
(Post 11173841)
sorry to jump in guys, as you lot know about this subject would a td06 20g turbo be to much for my99 uk 2000 injectors,the car it took the turbo off had the same setup as mine (but mines a td04 16g at mo)
Originally Posted by *matthewturb2000*
(Post 11173867)
315-330
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
(Post 11174746)
I've got this FPR on my car Fuelab.
I didn't pay anywhere near that price though, in fact, I didn't actually pay anything for it. :D Also am I right in thinking my 2 braided lines go to the FPR then one line goes from the FPR to the fuel pump?. |
Without a gauge, how are you going to set the fuel pressure? ;)
The return is return to tank. |
Thanks for confusing me even more Micky lol :lol1:
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My pleasure mate. :D
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:lol:
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OK found this thread which has helped after Micky fried my brain (It's not difficult)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1909985 http://wordpress.suberdave.com/wp-co...d/ej257gk2.jpg http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/Leon...n_100_8341.JPG http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/Leon...n_100_8344.JPG |
Originally Posted by Kwik
(Post 11175751)
OK found this thread which has helped after Micky fried my brain (It's not difficult)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1909985 https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...0&postcount=11 |
Christ I'm going to set fire to my own car :facepalm:
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lol, yeah Jon our right if you have the inlet off and the parts..... think taking the inlet and engine loom out puts a lot of people off but looks more complicated than it actually is, once you start it's not a bad job to do:thumb:
Grant |
Originally Posted by Kwik
(Post 11175766)
Christ I'm going to set fire to my own car :facepalm:
It's not that hard, Al. From the fuel filter, use a Y piece, and go to one end of each rail, must be the same ends. From the other end of the rails, use another Y piece and go to the FPR. Then FPR to the return pipe. That's the easiest way. I believe the best practice is to keep the fuel lines the same length when you split and rejoin them. Look at it like this: Intank pump -> fuel filter -> split to rails -> rejoin to FPR -> return to tank. |
Thanks Micky, I just need to locate the return pipe.
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Originally Posted by Kwik
(Post 11180085)
Thanks Micky, I just need to locate the return pipe.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...98247441_o.jpg |
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