Compression test
 

Hi peps
Did a compression test today
Results are
All in psi and engine had not ran for 1week and half and cold
#1 150 (nearest turbo)
#2 148
Other side
#3 180
#4 180
Does these reading seem fine or is engine ****ed (pardon my French)

Did you do it with the throttle wide open ?

No just took all plugs out and disconnected coil pack and cranked each one for ten seconds

So what's the best way to do compression test

Good battery, warm engine, all plugs out, throttle wide open when cranking.

Thanks will do that the weekend
And wats good compression

As in results roughly

I was told that anything over 130 is good, but you don't really want ant more than 10% between readings

So do another compression test
When
Car is warm
But as it stands I have a problem is that what we Wreckon

possibly but another test will help. 180 seems high and 150 isnt to shabby. what did the plugs look like when removed? all the same colour? I did a test on my old 160k engine last year, with a failing head gasket and got 140psi

Plug colours were all the same and according to last owner car already had headgasket done
Only doing as a specialist said it a bit lumpy on start up he said do a compression test do I will do another and find out cheers

Like said car ain't been started for couple of weeks

This is from th factory manual for the 2.0 lt engine

2. Compression
A: INSPECTION
CAUTION:
After warming-up, engine becomes very hot. Be
careful not to burn yourself during measurement.
1) After warming-up the engine, turn the ignition
switch to OFF.
2) Make sure that the battery is fully charged.
3) Release fuel pressure. <Ref. to FU(TURBO)-53,
RELEASING OF FUEL PRESSURE, OPERATION,
Fuel.>
4) Remove all the spark plugs. <Ref. to IG(TURBO)-
4, REMOVAL, Spark Plug.>
5) Fully open the throttle valve.
6) Check the starter motor for satisfactory performance
and operation.
7) Hold the compression gauge tight against the
spark plug hole.
CAUTION:
When using a screw-in type compression
gauge, the screw (put into cylinder head spark
plug hole) should be less than 18 mm (0.71 in)
long.
8) Crank the engine by means of the starter motor,
and read the maximum value on the gauge when
the pointer is steady.
9) Perform at least two measurements per cylinder,
and make sure that the values are correct.
Compression (350 rpm and fully open throttle):
Standard;
951 — 1,147 kPa (9.7 — 11.7 kg/cm2, 138 —
166 psi)
Limit;
883 kPa (9.0 kg/cm2, 128 psi)
Difference between cylinders;
49 kPa (0.5 kg/cm2, 7 psi)

Do you know which side had the head gasket changed? The wrong thickness (thin) gasket might have been used

By looks of it both side have been done but 100%

All of this cuz having boost issues and Scooby bloke said do compression test see is ****ed valves

What's the boost issue?

It could be vac lines, pressure lines, boost solenoid.....

Put foot down and boost comes in and out and fluctuates between 0.9 and 1.5 bar and can hear car surging like turbo coming in and out
Been to specialist and can't find anything wrong
He checked lines which are all new restrictor pill is there
Tried new solenoid I going to do a leak test get running and soapy water see of anything leaking

Is it hitting fuel cut? 1.5Bar is very high, way above boost cut levels unless its been mapped at that level..

Have you tried running at actuator pressure? pipe from turbo direct to wastegate, should boost to .5bar so bypassing the solenoid. just to see if it runs happier.

Have you redone the compression test yet?

No not yet as gotta buy some Cambelt covers as mine are broke and gotta do Cambelt then can do test
And was running on actuator pressure and ran fine and not hitting any cut at all I no what cut is
And it don't try ad throw you through the windscreen lol

If it ran ok when you bypassed the solenoid then that is where I would start, either try blasting it out or replace it.