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-   -   Removing drop links (https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension-12/972348-removing-drop-links.html)

Dan- 18 April 2013 09:28 PM

Removing drop links
 
Hey guys, i have never had to face defeat over a set of drop links before :@ but am i missing somthing on this one, ive been trying to remove my rear drop links and cant for the life of me get them off! normally they give you a torx or allen key socket in the end of the ball joint thread or a flat surface on the mating surface but i cant get a spanner to grip any part of it to stop the ball spinning :'(

ive concidered just cutting them off but the space is limited on the ground and being close to the fuel tank and vapour chamber i have doubts about doing it

ive managed to losen the part i though was going to be the problem the roll bar brackets and re-tighten them back up just stuck on the links!

is there something simple im missing here?

Cars a 2005 widetrack blob sti

Thanks Dan

STEVEBOXER 18 April 2013 10:03 PM

Cut em off with angle grinder and use a worn down cutting disc if space is tight and take your time!

Dan- 18 April 2013 10:48 PM

ive considered using an air grinder as the speed can be varied slightly dont quite spin at 6k revs per min almost breaking your wrist when i turn it on! but ive love the pessure bleed screw from the bottom :'( still got the fronts to attack hopfully they arnt the same design!

SWEENEYWRX 18 April 2013 10:52 PM

I assume your fitting new drop links? Cut the rubber off, Get a set of mole grips on to the bolt/ball of the drop link make sure the mole grips are closed really tight and that stops the whole thing spinning so you can get a ringer on the nut and remove it, job done

Dan- 18 April 2013 10:55 PM

i am yeah replacing the whole lot arb and links so im not fussed if i muller the whole lot :P

That might be a good idea to try actually, didnt think of that! thank you, if that fail then the angle grinder comes out for a play

scooby87 18 April 2013 10:59 PM

If you have access to air tools, get a impact gun on the nut. Then wedge a breaker bar around the back on the droplink and apply force to spot the thread spinning. This has never failed me on any car.

If that does fail as above cut them off.

SWEENEYWRX 19 April 2013 07:45 AM

It won't fail mate, never has for me, just make sure the mole grips are nice and tight

Dan- 19 April 2013 09:56 PM

Cheers for the advice guys, i tried all the above and the only way that worked was angle grinder :( but at least its off the car, now my next question now its off my new didnt arrive today :/ ive driven the car to test drive with no bar and it felt okay bit lose obvs but is it going to cause any damage to any parts like trailing arms running with no bar for a few days?

going to leave the front till the parts arrive like i should have for the back

53 19 April 2013 10:16 PM

Lol, just in front of the rubber boot is a flat sided metal buffer. This provides the purchase to remove the nut :)

Dan- 19 April 2013 10:18 PM

the nuts rounded instantly :) before i even saw the 14mm flat spot, was fuming as soon as it rounded!

53 19 April 2013 10:26 PM

No there's another grip point, 6 or 8mm. This holds the bolt, should still be able to crack the nut even if rounded ? You want me to post a pic ?

Dan- 20 April 2013 12:47 AM

Hey, if you could please that would be great make my life easier on the fronts as i know for certain there is not enough space for an angle grinder, it was tight on the back

53 20 April 2013 01:01 AM

The fronts have an allen key in the nose of the bolt so you'll be fine with those :) The rears are more tricky :)

Dan- 20 April 2013 01:12 AM

Oh okay as long as the fronts are easier all is good :) the rears inclu the arb is sat in my garage now :P so the hard bits done then :D

Thanks again


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