Who knows there ice on a classic
 

I have a saloon uk 99 2000 turbo, and i would like to improve the sound system in my car without going silly money.
I had a listen to some speakers in halfords yesterday, and i quite like the sound of the vibe 6 speakers, and they are not a bad price too.I intend to put 17cm speakers and tweeters in front by using the corsa speaker spaces, and 17cm 2 way speakers in the rear.
I Intend to run the front speakers from a small amp and the rear speakers stright from my sony head unit. I also intend to run a small under seat power bass speaker.
I no very little about ice but would like to learn, so can anyone tell me if its a 2 channel amp i am after, and what are good ones to go for without being silly money. I am after something small that will fit under front seat. Also what to go for on active underseat bass, after something small to fit under seat.
On the rear speaker side will 17cm fit stright in or will i need 13cm or can the corsa spacers be used on the rear too to fit 17cm.
On a last note i intend to change my sony cd headunit for a dvd headunit any ideads whats ok at a fair price or may go second hand. I like the 7inch pop up screens.Many thanks

No replies so i have brought a set of fli 6 triaxial, and vibe slick 6 2 way coaxial speakers and a small boss 2 channel amp to run front speakers.
My plan was to use the vibe speakers at the front but i am now thinking should i add some tweeters, and if so which speaker would be best at front . No idea what triaxial or 2way coaxial mean or if they already have tweeters built in.

Sound systems aint c
heap mate. Personally id buy a 6 channel amp then amp your front and rear speakers then while your at it add a 1000w sub mate. Buy yourself a set of cross overs and add a decent set of tweeters in

Ive had the dvd screens in mine and if im honest i found them more of a pain if anything, i.e the screen comes out n over the gear stick, it dont sit flush with the surround as they try to sit flush it putd pressure on the motor

Stick with a decent single din radio mate

Good luck tho

try googling the model numbers and reading the tech specs

From what i have read on here you don't need to go mad on rear speakers on a saloon and running the rear from headunit is best.
I intend to get a small underseat active sub,not after a mega sounding loud system, just something better.
I might not go dvd headunit, what cd headunits do you lot rate.

Mine runs Sony 3-way coax speakers front, 16.5cm, on home-made mdf spacers, invisible once the doorcard is on.
Rears are Sony 3-way coax 9 x 6's, again on home made spacers, this time covered with grey ICE cloth, as they are visible.

I also have a VERY nice, VERY adjustable Alpine active sub. It lives on the floor in the rear, half-under the passenger seat. It can easily be removed as it's only velcro-mounted, and can be disconnected easily if I need that space FOR a passenger.

GREAT sound, I daren't turn it to full bass.........;)

mine had alpine type r 6x9s in a custom made rear shelf, (best adition to a sound system IMO)
type r alpine front coaxel speakers,
kicker L7 solo baric 12" square subwoofer in the boot
JVC avx1 dvd head unit
alpine v power mono amp to power the sub, alpine v power stereo to power the 6x9s and fronts running off the head unit!
sound very good indeed i cant recommend having 6x9s and a sub (doesnt have to be a massive one, even a custom made to fit impreza so you keep the boot) but it fills in all the lower frequencys and the 6x9s do the mids well as well!
i highly recomend the kicker L7 subs as well! the amount of bass from a relitively small sub is outstanding imo!

Someone at work told me you need to run you rear speakers off the 2 channel amp, not the front. Something about the stereo rca output is for rear not front. Any comments on this please.
My headunit only has one rca output , so not sure if to leave the underseat active sub, don't like too much bass.

I have most of my sound through the fronts now, I prefer to listen to music coming from in front of me.

That's the beauty of tha Alpine sub, it can be adjusted from no bass up to kicking.

So what is the views on which speakers ti hook to the 2 channel amp. Been told rca connector on headunit is for rear sound not front.
Just brought a jvc avx1 headunit think it might have a sub outlet .

My Sony had one.

if you fancy a drive to birmingham i would be more than willing to give u a hand fitting

Thanks for the offer mate, very nice of you but i should be ok once i have some spare time to do sort it. My plan was to just run the front speakers of the 2 channel amp and the rear off the head unit , but someone at work told me i should do it the other way round.
My car being a saloon, i have read on this forum that not to go mad on rear sound , more on the front, so just wonted forum opions.

i have always run more power to the back speakers, that way you get a nice equal sound,plus you must remember if your tweeters are to powerful on the front it will make you squint and painful to the ears

good grief.

always have decent front speakers, you should always have the best sound coming from the front of the car, an avx1 head unit will have 3 sets or rca's, fronts rears and sub, the sub being a mono channel for bass only. amp up the fronts using a 2 channel and get a mono 2 channel that will bridge to 1 channel for our sub. basic principles for a standard setup. always worth spending 20 quid on a bit of sound deadening for behind the front speakers as these subaru's are made of card lol.

Agree with J44CE .


You should always have your best sound from the front , that way you will get the best staging and imaging . When you introduce the sound from the back it will pull the sound stage towards the rear and take from this.
Some people only run fronts and a Sub , this is what I had myself when I had my classic.
However some people do like to run a little rear at a much reduced volume to give a little bit of "fill"

Its up to personal taste really ..

Personally If I were you I would do the following if you really want to run a 4 speaker system

Amp the fronts and run the rears directly from the headunit , that way you should get the desired difference in output to avoid overly pulling the stage towards the rear .

Co-Axial means the tweeter is mounted on the woofer and not separately as per a component system. To be honest I would think this is more than fine for the system you are planning as it will not be overly high end and will be convenient to fit.
Don't add additional tweeters because you will only get phasing issues and comb filtering due to the sound arriving at slightly different times from both sets of tweeters

Soundproof the hell out of your doors and seal up any holes in the doors with light sheet metal

This is imho the best thing you can do in a Scoob to improve sound

If you have a sub out on the HU then great but afaik most of those underseat active subs will run off a high level (speaker) input

You could use your unused HU front speaker channel to power it in this case

See how you go from there ... :)

By the way Tri-axial means there are two additional speakers (a tweeter and a small mid range ) attached directly to the woofer i.e main speaker body

Co-axial means there is one additional speaker ( a tweeter) attached directly to the woofer i.e main speaker body

Halfords or the likes will never sell speakers off the shelf that do not come with tweeters

at last someone talking some sense lol, i thought the desire for car audio had all gone. NAF is exactly right mate. underseat amplified sub will be the easiest and most cost effective way of getting bass close to the front seats.

I echo what has been said.

Personally, depending on the car I either run an amped pair of front components and a subwoofer, or a 4 channel amp running all four cabin speakers and a 2 channel amp running a small sub.

Just because a speaker is amped does not mean it has to be loud. The whole purpose of the amp is to take the stress away from the head unit, and also gives better drive and control.

I have in the past run rear speakers off the head unit but what can happy is a very minute time delay.

While you are there, make sure that your amp(s) have the same earth point. Run a new decent earth cable from the same point to the head unit and delete the oem one. This will negate the potential difference that sometimes causes that annoying whine.

For my wagon, I am going for a pair of components, 4 channel amp under the seat and an active subwoofer for the boot (or under the other seat). The 2 channels will remain unused for now just in case I feel the need for rear speakers at some point.

Hope this helps,

Jason.

Thanks for the help, i have got my jvc kd-avx1 head unit now but it did not come with the iso lead , so had to buy one. I am alittle lost on the other leads, i thought the iso lead one block was for the power and the other was for the speakers.
I have loads of other leads coming off the head unit, video out,line in,oe remote,line out front,2nd audio out,line out rear,reverse rear signal,video in and subwoofer out. Could anybody explain what i need to do,. Thanks

Never lost my desire anyway J44CE ;) got bit by the bug years ago and still going strong :D

Have a lovely set up in my Leggy now , SQ is amazing and it cranks too when I get the odd urge lol

Personally I wouldnt go for the under seat sub route but each to their own :)

Agree with you there FMJ , its great to have the headroom when you go down the amplifier route

NAF

hope this helps http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/0...T1322-001B.pdf manual
and install info
http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/0...T1322-002A.pdf

Hi

So you didnt buy it new then ?

If you didnt get any documentation here's a link to the installation manual

http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/0...T1322-002A.pdf

Plenty of connectivity with that unit ..

Youre correct about the ISO block for power and speaker out

Video in and out you prob wont need

Theyd be used to connect another video source such as a camcorder and also to output to another monitor such as those youd have for kids in the back.

Sub out and RCA line out front you will use to power your amp / active Sub

Line out rear could drive an additional amp for the future ..

Reverse signal is used for a feed from a rear mounted parking cam afaik

Honestly you can forget about most of them for now if you want ..

Many thanks for your input, i am not going to use the small 2 channel amp at the moment. This jvc unit is double the power of my kenwood unit thats in at the moment, so think i will just fit speakers and head unit, then might use this 200 watt amp to power front speakers or a underseat amp, at a later date.
I fitted the FLI 16.5 speakers to the rear today, sounds better but need to make some spacers to fit proper. On the headunit need to find out how you bypass the hand brake cable thing.

thats all good mate, get it fitted and see how it sounds.
And NAF excellent mate, i do this sort of thing amongst other to earn a living and i bloody love it lol.
my wagon is having a set of morel front speakers with vifa tweeters in custom door build, morel for a bit of real fill and a mac daddy diamond 12" sub in a stealth box. diamond amp for the sub and a 4 channel dls amp for the fronts so i can run them active, oh and 2 line drivers and a EQ lol. just gotta find some decent belden cable to make me some custom RCA cables. i might do a build write up on here of it.

my

Don't quote me on this but aren't these usually just switched to earth ?

i.e when the cable is connected to ground the unit will play DVDs at all times ?.

Google it to be double sure but I think that might be the case

J44CE might be able to help you better :)

Hey mate

Sounds nice , custom door build is the business for optimal tweeter placement imho ;)

I've got Vifas myself in the kick panels firing across and up towards the dome light with an CDT windshield mounted upstage imaging kit crossed over high (10K) , the staging is amazing , its as far forward and as high as you could imagine . Those upstage kits are definitely worth it if you were ever considering them

I also have Apline SPX-17 PROS in the doors with hours of hard graft deadening and sealing with Dynamat Xtreme and Ensolite closed cell foam lol

All running active from an Alpine PDX 4.150 amp

12" Elemental Designs 13aV2 Sub in custom stealth box powered by Alpine SPX 1.1000 amp

Both amps are mounted underseat , they are very compact amps with great sound , Alpine really designed these very well

Alpine CDA-9887R HU fitted in cubby hole using a sat nav conversion adapter I sourced from Japan ( original leggy HU non removable as part of the dash , big ass pos ;) ) time alignment on unit is great and great active xover control - also have the imprint kit but to be honest in the ended I went with my own ear for tuning , I find the imprint kit kills the bass a little too much for my liking.

0 guage cable running in from the engine and split with distribution blocks to 4 guage to amps , big 3 upgrade done , new 0 guage cables for engine earths , alternator etc

Monster RCA cables

I've got a little rear running of the HU right now and I kinda like it tbh, best thing about though is I can switch off the internal amp in the HU in its settings so can flick between having it on and off as I like..

Apart from the imaging tweets , once the face plate is off the 9887 the whole thing looks stock and doesnt draw unwanted attention

:D