Screaming Boiler
My boiler has just started making a horrible screaming sound. If I just have the hot water switched on it's okay but as soon as I turn the heating on it screams. What the hell has happened. Is my boiler kaput?
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Just had a closer look and there is a large block attached in line on a water pipe this is what is making the noise. Is this a water pump of some sort?
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Maybe its to try to reduce limescale buildup and is getting a bit blocked.
Les |
What boiler is it?
There are some Combi boilers don't require the use of the pump for hot water but the do for heating obviously so it could be the pump motor that's on it's way out. |
Is it defo the boiler and not the water pump. mine screamed when the pump ran dry and died.
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managed to look at the circulation pump. It's a Grundfos UPS 15-50 model. It has stopped screaming now but is making a grinding sound. Called a gas engineer to come take a look. Looks like I can get a new one on eBay for around £50
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Originally Posted by magepaster
(Post 10837589)
managed to look at the circulation pump. It's a Grundfos UPS 15-50 model. It has stopped screaming now but is making a grinding sound. Called a gas engineer to come take a look. Looks like I can get a new one on eBay for around £50
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Yep sounds like your pump is knackered. Had to have mine changed earlier this year ( was a grundfoss too, although they are very common), but it's not too hard a job, so its not too expensive in the scale of things that can go wrong with heating systems... Lol
Cost us i believe £140 for a new pump, new isolation taps top & bottom, and the plumber to fit them! The isolation taps are a good idea in theory as you can close them to isolate the pump so you can change it, but 99 times out of a 100, the pumps go so infrequently, that the taps are fcuked too and either won't close or are just gammed up. |
Heres a tip,buy same pump Grundfos ,just change the head..4 allen screws no need to undo the big nuts,thats making work for the fun of it
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As buster states just change the pump yourself with the 4 screws,you will run a high risk of further work if the big nuts are tight tight,by bending the inlet and outlet then need a plumber to come solder new 20/22mm joints for you.you run a scoob so its a walk in the park.
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Is the pump in the boiler or on pipework outside of the boiler.
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I thought this thread was going to be something to do with Ibiza :Suspiciou
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Originally Posted by TelBoy
(Post 10838895)
I thought this thread was going to be something to do with Ibiza :Suspiciou
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Originally Posted by SwissTony
(Post 10838912)
or Glenn Close :Suspiciou
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Might be worth checking the water flow to the pump while you have it off. Yes it will make a mess but there is nothing worse then blowing a new pump by running it dry... Our water inlet was blocked halfway up in the celing!
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Originally Posted by Busterbulldog
(Post 10838066)
Heres a tip,buy same pump Grundfos ,just change the head..4 allen screws no need to undo the big nuts,thats making work for the fun of it
Is there likely to be anything wrong with the static bit - corrosion or anything? I've just bought a new pump - same make as what was there originally. Was hoping to do as you say tomorrow and just change the head. Do I need to use seal from the new pump, or just keep the old one? Its a DAB 55/130 pump |
My boiler screams from time to time too.
I just turn it off for a while and when I turn it back on, it's all good again. It will probably be the reason for my death one day lol |
follow busterbulldog. The hances are it'll be plastic bodied and the main workings are just in the pump head.
20 minute job too, just make sure you get all the water out or your gonna get wet! |
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Originally Posted by urban
(Post 10862344)
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Just be careful as manufactures are crafty and alter the bodies/heads sometimes to make you buy their spare part. Ideal are infamous for this.
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Ok, usually a plastic hydraulic block within the boiler. You'd only be using the cylindrical part of that pump.
Ideal are notorious for it, you should just buy a grundfos 15-50 |
I only ever change the pump head.The bit it connects to should be fine.Just make sure you get the correct model,either a 15/50 or 15/60,although replacing a 50 with a 60 shouldnt be an issue.
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I have the exact DAB replacement - 55/130
Old pump is probably 14 years old at a guess Will have a go at this shortly |
Update:
Chickened out in the end. Turned off valves, disconnected the power. and began opening the bleed screw- didn't fully remove it. A LOT of water came out, and there was still water coming out a long time after I though it would. So, basically I chickened out, tightened up the bleed screw, opened valves and then opened bleed screw(water came out under pressure, just like when I first attempted) Reconnected power and called an adult :D He's calling today to do my yearly boiler service and fit new pump. |
Originally Posted by urban
(Post 10866769)
Update:
Chickened out in the end. Turned off valves, disconnected the power. and began opening the bleed screw- didn't fully remove it. A LOT of water came out, and there was still water coming out a long time after I though it would. So, basically I chickened out, tightened up the bleed screw, opened valves and then opened bleed screw(water came out under pressure, just like when I first attempted) Reconnected power and called an adult :D He's calling today to do my yearly boiler service and fit new pump. Cluck Cluck :thumb: Though if in doubt, prob the sensible thing to do. |
Thats what I thought, save the agro of a cold wife nagging me.
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Butter
Put some butter on your valve and watch ya boiler get to work
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The years just fly by.
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Strange, this is the second five-year-old thread someone dug up....
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