My 94WRX (pretty well standard jap stuff) keeps giving me the 'Check Engine Light' with a fault code 22 (Knock Sensor) I have changed the boost solonoid and MAP sensor and cleaned out the tubes around the boost pack but I am now wondering if the 'knock' problem which I understand is mis-firing in layman's terms is not due to the HT leads.
I too the spark caps off today and fiddled with the leads and it cetainly had an effect on the behaviour of the CEL coming on and off. The car is definitely miss-firing even though I only fitted new plugs 6 - 8 months ago and I thought NGK's were supposed to last 3 years?
Has anybody had any trouble with HT leads before and if so what was the solution, where can you buy them from?
The solution to this problem seems so near and yet so far, I hope someone can help!

TtT
Can anyone validate my theory / suggest a new one?
Could over-detonation be caused bya sticking waste gate?
Do the igniion coils ever cause this sort of problem?
What about injector trouble, could they be causing this sort of behaviour?

Have you had the coil packs changed at any time ? These were the cause of a misfire on my MY95. Never got the check engine light though. If that comes on for the knock sensor does it not mean you need a new knock sensor ?

Sounds like it might be Coil Packs. Having said that, if you've got a Knock Sensor error code come up, that usually means that the Knock Sensor needs replacing....

Matt :)

I have changed the knock sensor albeit for a second hand one (from Grade A) to no avail.
I have just been driving the car - the CEL and 'running rough' comes and goes for a while and then stays when it is 'fully warmed up' - is this most likely to be coil packs? or have I got a leaking hose somewhere?
Where would I get coil packs from?
How do you get them out (they appear to be under the manifold)?
About how much are they?
Sorry for all the qu's but I really want to chase this one out!

Coil packs cost me about £200 for 4 new ones. Felt like I had a different car afterwards. I got mine from C & K, but I think most of the scooby maintenance places do them too.

I did not get the check engine light when mine were gone though. I heard if you reduce your plug gap to 0.6mm (I think) and you get an improvement it can help as a pointer to the coils.

If you have a used knock sensor how do you know if it is any good ? Would it be possible to try your sensor on another car to eliminate it ? Or one off another car that is known to be OK on your car ?

Best of luck.

I will have to take the fact that both knock sensors give the same signals as proof that they are working as I do not have access to another car to test them unfortunately.
How do you get at the coil packs? As yet I have not ventured into taking the manifold off the top of the engine although I am fairly adventurous (I changed the clutch and other bits).
Perhaps if I had a look at them I might find some sort of connection problem??

Silly question but what fuel are you using? ie ul/sul/optimax?

Tony

Same results if I use Optimaz, normal or super - I normally use Optimax or super and only put £5 of normal in there if I am 'caught short'.

Vernon

There is a coil pack on top of each plug. I think they are secured with a bolt into the rocker cover. You would need to remove them to get to the plugs.

Ken

Ever get this sorted ? I am having the same problem on my 95WRX