HKS Crank.... rear or center thrust?
 

hope some one can shed some light on this for me. Origanally i had a HKS 2.2 stroker kit built into a EJ20 CDB. I do not remember it needing any block work but could be wrong. I now have the HKS crank in an EJ22 block and again do not remeber the being any block work to get it to fit. what i need to know is if the HKS crank is center or rear thrust. Below is a pic if any one can tell from that.

Attachment 56830

Obvious qustion but have you lokked at the block to see where the thrust bearing is? Some after market cranks are dual thrust anyway.

engine is in the car at the moment and can not find the build pics.
the pic above is 5 years old.

Hi

I built a ej20 cdb many years ago with HKS stroker internals & it was a centre thrust crank.

Standard ej22 are centre thrust blocks but obviously this can be modded for rear thrust conversion.

Possible that the crank is dual thrust like WMS stated, but like I said I beleive the HKS crank is centre thrust.

OK thanks for the answer, not the news i wanted but on the other hand it might turn out for the best. I have a knock on my motor and im convinced it is down to the thrust bearing. Pulling it apart in 2 weeks but in the mean time its doing my head in trying to figure out what or why.

If the crank was dual thrust is it possible to mod the block to run both centre and rear. I know i would need 2 sets of main bearings but can it be done?

any one?

Hi

Yes you can modd the blocks for rear thrust location however you do not actually use both thrusts, you mod the centre bearing so it is not controlling the thrust and the rear location is controlling the thrust.

We moddify nearly all our blocks due to most people going with the ej25 crank/ej20 nitrided new age cranks so it is the usaul nowadays. In my race engines I run a wrc tagged thrust in the rear and try to get away from centre thrust due to the meet left around no 3 journal getting reduced with the wrc tagged location can cause issues later on in life with the bearing. (genuine wrc blocks are different to road car cdb casting)

When you get the conversion done be aware the bearing notch is very important, not done correctly it put a high spot on the bearing, I do it on the mill so works like factory produced.

Hope all info helps you.

Cheers

thank you for the indepth reply. Could you if you wanted to run both rear and centre. Im pretty sure i have done my thrust bearing and if i could run 2 at the same time feel it would stop it ever happening again. I know rear is surppose to be the stronger of the two positions and im told a must have for a heavy clutch.

Looks like it is Centre thrust from the picture you posted up - the thrust faces on No.3 journal can just be seen.

Attachment 56831

Ok thank you. So unless this is a dual thrust crank im stuck with centre thrust then.
If it is dual thrust can anyone think of any reason why i could not get the rear of the block machined to run a thrust bearing but leave the centre as it is and run dual thrust?
Is there any way to stop this happening again?
I ran ACL duraglide last time so im going to move to ACL race.

Hi

No you cannot run dual thrust controlling end float, take into account your crank is probably not thrusted for no5 bearing thrust. If your crank is dual thrust then you have the option ofcoarse, but thrust is controlled by the centre, or the rear not both at the same time.

Do you have alot of end float? What is making you think your thrust is gone?

Cheers

I cannot check it for end float just yet. Need to get it to my mates garage in 2 weeks and will pull the box off and have a look. I pulled away hard and ran through 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. at the top of 4th i had a knock reading of 90 odd on my Power FC so came out the throttle and slowed down. As i came to a stop the engine had a knock and was draging a little so struggled to idle. Had a listen and im 99% sure its not a big end. when i cranked the engine to start it cranked a little slower than normal and when i pushed the clutch in while cranking it slowed down a little more. I have pulled the plugs out and wound it over by hand and the crank hits a tight spot every 360 degrees for about 30-40 degrees. the knock is coming from the centre of the block at the back where the fly wheel is. Im hoping it is just my thrust bearing or problem with the clutch. I did notice while trying to restart it that it took longer for the oil light to go out but it did just as it fired. So all i have to go on is how is sounds, where the sound is coming from and the time it took to build oil pressure oh and the fact it cranks slower with the clutch pressed in.

Its easy for me to say but I would think you have big end bearing damage.

However until you have it apart its guess work, modded oil pump & grp n sump eliminates the big end bearing ej engine issue.

When you repair the fault look into fitting these parts, just some advise.

Again thank you for your reply. I will be gutted if i have to replace the crank.
Is the any reason you can think of why pushing the clutch in would make it drag more if it was a big end.

Its possible bud it is thrust damage & like I said until you inspect during the strip down its guess work, as you know either way you are stripping it down.

When you have the aux belts off pull the aux/crank pulley toward you & push it back, see how much endfloat there is by hand. At that point you may get an idea but strip it down as you are going to & diagnose fully.

Yes if big end bearing damaged it will be a shame, when you have it apart feel free to PM me to let me know what you have found.

All the best with it.

Thanks for the reply. Its not the end of the world that it has to come apart because a friend of mine will do the work for me and the was a few bits i wanted to change intenaly any way: rod bolts, ACL race, 11m oil pump maybe some new block through bolts as well.
I just didnt want to have to pay for a crank and i will not grind one on an engine that already makes 550+. Motor was built late 2008 but has only done about 16K with oil change every 5k. The car was driven hard every time it was taken out at over 500bhp and the only thing that change was the car was mapped and gained another 50-60bhp the day before it started to knock. I have just found the limit of some thing in the engine i just dont know what but im kicking myself for not puting the ACL race in at the time. They where on a 2 week back order and i should have just waited.

Dont beat yaself up & Acl race bearings wouldnt of stopped it doing it.

Some advice, put uprated pump on as you are doing & run a group n baffle in your sump (would need modding).

All the best with the rebuild and if you need any advise or help feel free to contact me.

Cheers.

Pump wise i will just grab an 11mm pump from Lateral and i was looking at the higher capacity baffled sump along with oil cooler. If that dont sort it out then im out of ideas.

Right it's been a while but the motor will be coming apart this Saturday and i will finally have an answer as to what went wrong. Its been doing my head in for months wondering what is up with it. Just for fun if any one want to have a guess before it comes apart then fill your boots.