Is the Standard recirculating bov best?
 

Hi guys I'm just after some advice, is the standard recirculating bov a better option than the vent to atmosphere I have fitted (hks ssqv I also have a forge one somewhere )

I'm soon to fit my vf34, pinks, tmic etc and was thinking of putting a standard one back on for the remap and keeping it on. I realise I won't get the noise anymore but not that bothered. The car runs well at the moment with the hks but could it run better ??

Any advice would be great.

This divides opinion.
I had one on a new age sti and didnt notice any detrimental effects.
I have a friend that had running issues however in a classic after fitting.
If your not bothered about the whoosh then i would recomend keeping it standard...

Yea I have also heard different stories too, just wanted to know other people's opinions on them really and what experiences they have had, cheers buddy.

I had a Blitz vta on my P1 not cheap but did sound good but the car did not like it rough idling/cutting out was on car for a week swoped it back to standard and car was fine again! Sold it on fleabay :thumb:

I would stick to the recirculating one scoobys dont seem to like the atmosphere one it will give idling problems and all so disappointing on take of. May all so course 1 or 2 second delay/lag in gears as the boost is not recirculating back in the turbo. it all so will confuse :confused: the ecu to through more fuel when you here the woosh. :lol1: defo wont make the car go fast.

Stranded recirculating ones are good enough to take 300bhp. The forge one is a good choice.



BASH FROM UNDERGROUND SCOOBYS

had a hks one on my classic when i first got it and after fitting standard recirc one car a lot smoother and less laggy.still get a load of noise changing gear from the induction kit.

What one would I put on a 450+ classic then guys ?

uprated re-circ one mate.

Or 400+ bhp on Cossie STi/Litchfield car.
http://www.litchfieldimports.co.uk/subaru_type20.asp

i had a MY98 with a recirc fitted and put a DV on it, i immideatly noticed it took longer to boost that with the recirc. 2 weeks later the DV was taken off

i now have a MY99 which had a DV fitted to it, as soon as i swapped back to the standard recirv valve the difference was night and day. the DV must have been leaking as it didnt boost well at all, but with the recirc valve back on its a different car

if you like the noise, go for the DV, but for me it will always be a recirc valveD
plus i did use more fuel with the DV as i wanted to hear it going off, which of course ment over revving the car lol

I have a Bailey DV fitted and tried putting a standard one back on and it idle'd like a dog and caused car to cut out.

Does it need ECU reset - unplug battery for a bit job if you switch ?

Car is also mapped.

You don't half talk some utter tosh :cuckoo:

Simple answer is yes recirculating valves are best for Subaru otherwise why didn't they fit a VTA instead?

In my younger chavvy days ;) (I'm 27 now) I had a Forge VTA. Poorer consumption, the odd issue with idling and stalling. Wasn't worth the grief for a mod that does nothing apart from a sound. Standard recirc back on, ran brilliantly.

Bought my bug with VTA fitted and its starting to irritate me now after 2 months. I like the noise if I'm out for a cheeky wee spin but driving to work it becomes tiresome

Did you have to do an ECU reset when you switched ?

I didn't, no. This was about 4 years ago on an unmapped Scoob. I probably did an ecu reset for various other things though :lol1:

Current Scoob has standard recirc valve and is mapped. No idle issues at all funnily enough ;)

Had a few VA BOV's HKS,Blitz,Turbosmart and had no running problems. I do fancy changing back now to the recirc, just for a change mainly. That's on a newage.

every time the air is let out in each gear the fuel and air are not right so you will get a delay on cars with maf. :D

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dump_valve

A 1 or 2 second delay would make a car un-driveable - that's the bit that's tosh. On a well setup car running a vta, the delay is hardly noticeable. Been there and done it as have many others and have real world experience so the ****ipedia link is wasted on me!

:lol1:

Read this last night and did wonder about a 2 second gap :D

Just fit a standard newage re-circ valve to your classic mate,there better made and stronger than the classic plastic versions.;)

Don't they have a slightly different flange fitting to the classics on the intercooler?

Would argue that dumping excess charge air from a frontmount setup using a recirc or blanked off dump port would do more to cause a delay or even harm by throwing this air back through or at the compressor which only acts to slow or stall the compressor, the only reason that your fueling is upset using an atmosperic DV is because usually all of the charge air is dumped to atmosphere, using the right DV and setup they can be set to retain a set quantity of air within the charge system which resolves this issue. There are other issues to contend with though, the poor idle for example is 99.99999% of the time down to poor sealing of your chosen DV at idle, this can be down to many things like manufacturing or design defects, worn seals or springs etc, but at the end of the day it is not a huge issue to resolve, lastly and its something I have not seen discussed is the volume of air that your DV can vent, this is important especially for those running huge frontmounts with higher boost levels, basically when backing off from full boost you want your DV to be able to vent most but not all of the excess charge air the instant you back off, if it cannot vent this air off quickly enough then the DV port itself chokes and the remaining charge air will be forced back through the compressor which will slow the compressor and usually results in a horrible judder.

Recirc or Amospheric? This has been debated for many years but in my honest opinion if an atmosperic DV is setup correctly to your engine spec then it is far better than using recirc any day, so long as you dont mind the noise as that is its only down side.


Cheers Iain

Well set up sounds nice Brun Senior but unfortunately that not the case majority of the time I have experienced this with one of the customers bugeye Scooby and after changing the dv to standard the car was fine it felt like the car hit a wall all of a sudden around 4000rpm unless the spring was broken or piston was stock i don’t know may be a fuel cut off.

This week I have had another one come in with piston number 3 big end knocking. Due to a bigger turbo and stock injectors and no remap.

Here is one to you brun as you been there and don it. I got another one come in with code P0172 i have resolved the problem but where would you start.?
I got a 2007 2.5 wrx come in this week it’s been in 2 garages first garage changed the head gaskets due to overheating but car never went over 3000 revs after that any tips before i strip it do done a compression test after warming it to temperature and its showing 105 105 117 123. Don a down leak test the air is coming from the outlet valves. On 1,3,4, 2 is fine on the green.?

To me it’s a daily job with Subaru’s since the classics came out i break them and build them. And i never had unsatisfied customers from engine rebuilds to jig work and grp fibreglass upgrade kits. just sharing what i go through daily experience from last 30 years as not perfect just an opinion.

Sorry for interrupting the thread how the hell do i put some pictures cant seem to get around them and is it possible to open a shop on this forum or does everything work on threads thanks in advance senior.

I don't understand - most of what you have just written has nowt to do with BOV's???

Anyway - to put pictures up, you must host them on somewhere like photobucket. Once the picture is hosted, you put the address of the picture in-between [img] and [/img] in your post and your pic will appear.

To open a shop as such - you must become an authorised advertiser but it will cost :thumb:

Forge re circ fitted on my classic.

Went from standard re-circ.
To HKS SSQV. Fancied a change.
Went back to the standard re-circ. Got bored of the noise.
Now have gone DV delete. Love the noise :luvlove:

thanks for photo info will try that.:thumb:



BASH FROM UNDERGROUND SCOOBYS.

On VF range i would say,DV or OEM recirc is must,just due VF turbo cores are little bit more fragile like TD or Garrett cores

To OP stick with OEM recirc and forget on DV if you don't like the noise,I've run like with Forge or OE recirc and after that we are now running DV delete and really feels great.Your OEM recirc will be OK for your needs and beyond that,about the max boost on stock OEM recirc,many people run 1.8bar without the problem and beyond that boost without the problem

About the lag when you are running DV delete is again only myth or like can say Placebo effect.


Jura