2.1
 

how much will it be to do a 2.1 on my 95 wrx??

A self build or a reputable company to do it?
Maybe speak to engine tuner or API for a price?

looking at a self build was just thinking much would be in parts.??

Advanced automotives do a 2.1 striker kit, have a look on eBay but it maybe still worth your while having a chat with one of the above I mentioned

http://www.scoobyclinic.com/products...components.htm

if your handy with the spanners

I'm actually doing this and estimate to have this close to finishing around this time next year.
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...elf-build.html

I don't want to scare you off, but there's a lot more than just a stroker kit required. Here's a rough list of parts i'm looking at and prices...

JE FORGED SUBARU RACING COMPETITION PISTONS 92.5mm £475
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JE-FORGED-...item519d2a306d

Rebore/Machine £400.

Manley Rods £375
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...item3cc2b20e3e

Crank EJ25/ACL Main/Big End £600
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Nit...item3cc2278061
Seals - £25
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Fro...item3cc1bd0f91


Build
Plastigauge - £20
Paste - £30
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRAPHOGEN-...item3cc2ac476f
Block o-ring kit inc block bolts- £140
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Su...item519db91c68

Oil Pump - £156
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Mod...item519d4b407b
Water Pump Gasket - £7
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Water-Pump...item3cc233e1d4
Water Pump - £85
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roger-Clar...item519dc0898d
Thermostat - £25
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hi-Flow-Th...item3cc1903b83
Oil seperator - £45
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-eng...item519dc08c22

Sump £110
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-GC8...item3cc28cc3f3
Sump Sealant - £30
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Threebond-...item3cc2c5e45a

Heads
V3 STI heads £350
Cosworth HG - £150
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosworth-1...item3cc1db6c63
ARP Headstuds £210
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARP-Head-S...item3cc21fff1b

Total = £3233
Gearbox and matching Diff - TY754VBAAA (possibly).


Now most of these are Ebay links and since knocking this up I've found different parts - this site is in the US so you'd have to add import tax into the equation... http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...your-block-69/

Kwik nice post:)

Those prices are a bit expensive if you ask me;)

We do a 2.1 kit similar to the Scoobyclinic version. 79mm Crank, ACL race bearings, APi steel rods. APi Supertech pistons, with tool steel heavy duty piston pins, rings and clips.

All new parts of course.

£1495.00 + VAT [ £1794.00 inc VAT ]

We can bore and machine your block to match the 2.1 set up and we can supply all other parts if you wish: 3 layer steel head gaskets, high temperature valve stem seals, modified oil pump, sump baffle, etc., etc.,

Tell us your intended spec and projected power and we can advise.

David APi


API Impreza
3 & 4 Churchlands Farm Ind. Est.
Bascote Road
Harbury
Warwickshire
CV33 9PL England

Phone 44 [0] 1926 614333
Fax 44 [0] 1926 614907

www.apiengines.com/index3.php

dob@apiengines.com

I built my forged 2.5 for about 1500 including all machining and head work

Isn't Enginetuners drive in/drive out 2.1 around £4,000?

About that but that's without any mods, turbo etc but it is a great engine:D

The problem with fixed price drive in drive out's is that on any high spec job it is very difficult to be exact. Quite often the customer changes the spec and we have to react.

But generally speaking drive in drive out for £4000 inc VAT is perfectly possible.

David APi

API Impreza
3 & 4 Churchlands Farm Ind. Est.
Bascote Road
Harbury
Warwickshire
CV33 9PL England

Phone 44 [0] 1926 614333
Fax 44 [0] 1926 614907

www.apiengines.com/index3.php

dob@apiengines.com

how much is your 1995 wrx worth

A good strong engine too running over 600bhp in a WR1........ (not my car BTW)

Would it not be worth pursuing a 2.5 block?!....

Hi there

Neil@Slowboy racing give me vote,he done my engine and basically whole my build

Prices are here

SBR 2.1 500BHP

http://www.slowboy-racing.co.uk/inde...mart&Itemid=73

SBR 2.1 650BHP

http://www.slowboy-racing.co.uk/inde...mart&Itemid=73


Jura

Better rods out there than Manley ;-)

Manley rods are OK for about 550bhp,above 550bhp i would suggest I beam rods


Jura

They certainly have their place but with all cheap chinese forged rods its a bit of a lottery. Plus have you felt the weight of them! Not great for the bearings long term.

If I'm going to the expense of a full forge I'd spend an extra 200-300 on some quality I-beams.

Manley are NOT chinese forged rods,they're used on most builds and they're OK.

Eagle rods i wouldn't recommend for above 400-450bhp.

About the I beam rods,depends how much power he wants the run and really for 500-550bhp Manley rods are OK,engine builders/people use them.

Yes better will be Cosworth rods,but price for them is twice(on some online shops cost triple than Manley)


Jura

We build a whole lot of these, very successfully too.
We have a formula which includes all machining done on the premises, trial assembly for every build, full balancing, heads fully overhauled including guides, and an obsession with cleanliness. Any one of my two engine builders sees the whole engine through from start to finish.
I can't honestly say if anyone else does all the above.
We use only genuine Subaru gaskets and seals, apart from Cosworth head gaskets where appropriate. Our usual choice is to use RCM oil pumps and ARP stud kits. We have proven a number of combinations of rod and piston, our most popular choice has been Wiseco with uprated pins and K1 rods. We choose to use nitrided cranks.

Obviously there are a wide range of options with a rebuild, depending on choice and specification. We have done enough of these to be able to target power outputs very accurately.
We will offer drive in drive out deals, starting from £4650 inc vat which includes all of the above.

Yes and No and Not Quite.

Most con rods are made in China these days, as are forged pistons and most all come from one or two factories. Trust me, we have been dealing in the Far East since the early 80's.

There are Chinese products of one quality and Chinese products that will be far superior to any other make, but the price break is not so good.

The problem with rods made for a price is that whilst the bolts look like ARP and are marked ARP - they are not ARP and that will be the weak link. The rods that we use have genuine ARP bolts and we run them happily up to 700 hp without fear.

The usual caveats apply with H beam and I beam and so on.

But a blanket "don't use these or don't use those" is a generalisation that perhaps is not kind to some very good products out there. We see many different types of rods come through our doors, both bought by us and supplied by customers that have bought elsewhere. Once we attack the big end bolts with our bolt stretch-o-meter we get a good picture of what is what and in most cases a new set of genuine ARP's will make the rods more than adequate for the task in hand.

It helps too if the rods - despite bits of paper claiming weights and so on are accurate in the 'fitting instructions ' We find that there are variances that in some cases are unacceptable for a high power build.

You pays your money..............................

David APi

[QUOTE=jura11;10552176]Manley are NOT chinese forged rods,................

I think you'll find they are. They bear a remarkable similarity to some of the Chinese rods we have seen in here right down to markings and weights.

And that is not necessarily bad - [ see above poist ]

AND like AJ, we have two engine builders who drive me nuts with the obsession with cleaning and prepping and just as AJ - we use much the same parts in our builds. Cylinder boring & lining work is sent out - all other work is done in house.

Genuine gaskets are by far the best for consistency of product and dimensions and Cosworth head gaskets get used when a certain compression ratio is needed and we cannot get it using original head gaskets.
We use 14mm stud sets over 500 hp Otherwise the APi made parallel 11mm ones with genuine ARP nuts are perfect.

David

They ARE made in china, finished elsewhere ie the states, as are 95% of H-beam rods on the common market.

I have personally used Manley H-beams in a forged build and I've seen them snap in half at moderate power (no rod bolt failure in this case), luckily not on my build :-).

Like i said, they do have their place in forged builds......

so really im looking at about £3500 in parts without a gearbox :lol1: could i use my block or would i need a new one??

We build 2.1's on an open deck block if that is what the budget dictates. It limits the ultimate power that it can be stretched to, but in fairness most people want the extra torque and are quite happy in the low 400's for hp. In which case it'll be fine.

For upper level high power builds cdb every time.

David

Its the "they can, they can't" that puts me off Manley and i'll be going for Crower rod's.
Whilst all the engine builders are in one post i just wondered if on a CDB build you've ever come across the piston skirt not clearing the oil jets, and if so did you have to modify the piston's?.

That's quite normal and we relieve the piston skirt to clear the squirters. BUT: we have a set of Cossie pistons here that haven't done much work - although it was at 650 hp - and they have cracks in the skirt coming away from the relief marks.

SO we did away with the bore squirters. Problem solved!! and I am not convinced that they are necessary on a high power, high quality component build.

WRC engines don't use squirters as Prodrive say that they sap power and rev- ability, due to the force exerted under the piston crown that needs an amount of power to force the piston against the oil flow.

On an engine that is limited for power anyway by the air restrictor that is a more critical than problem than usual.

David

My rods are also from China, I only buy bolts from ARP though, ive been using them for years and many, many engine builds, never had a problem.
I also supply some well known engine builders in the UK (non Subaru) they sell them on as their brand at £700 a set!
As long as the metal is the correct spec and they are manufactured correctly, they can be made on the moon, you will get the same quality rod as anywhere else.