standard dv any good??
 

I currently dont have a dv on my scoob and i would like to fit one. I want a recirculating one. Is it wise to get a after market one or should i get a standard one? I dont want to get a standard one if its going to leak boost when i get it remapped.
Also i plan on fitting a front mount at some point so is the one that will work with the standard current set up and can then be fitted to a fmic set up?

I have done a search but cant find what i want to know

what car you got mate ?

1995 wrx

Stick with ths standered dv just check its clean and you shouldn't have any problems, I had a bailys and was for ever sticking open .

Standard dump valve is as good as any aftermarket DV at doing the intended job. The only reason for fitting an aftermarket is if you like to hear the psch noises all the time or frighten old grannies at the bus stop.
Ensure your FMIC has a spiggot on it for the BOV connection and a silicon joiner for the BOV connection. You may have to size down to your existing DV diameter from the spiggot but that is easy enough.
Ensure you get tube and fin FMIC of quality. Ebay specials are usually crap.

Standard DV should at least be checked for leakage and not assume it's just ok if an owner is committed to achieving above average performance levels, certainly running anything above 1.45bar boost.
Trev

The above advice applies to ALL d/v's, surely?

Assuming the OEM DV is actually working ;) as Harvey suggests, these can be more than up to the task for various levels of modification. Personally I hate vent to atmos DV's with a passion. They sound cheap, nasty and proper **** imo! ;)

I still have the OEM one on mine with no issues, which is running a Hybrid FMIC and 450bhp.

how can you tell if a dv is safe or not, I'm sure most are, mine wasn't. It's quite feasable for a dv to be leaking boost back into the inlet tract, boost is maintained but the turbo works much harder to achieve required boost.This is what happened on my car,I monitor turbo outlet temps and they were soaring. I fitted a turbosmart plumback recirculating dv and it was an absolute revelation, the turbo is now producing much less heat.
Trev

Wastegate duty could be an indicator. EGT's may be another source of data. Speed sensor on the turbo yet another.

my egt's have always been comparetively low, around 450-500deg c but thats post turbo and I understand pre turbo would be approx 150c higher but I run water/meth injection and meth in the fuel. I'm not aware of the other two indicators.
When I fitted the new dv the defi boost gauge hit 2bar immediately, normally reads 0.1 high at 1.7 bar.
Trev

So wastegate duty would of told you there was a problem..... assuming you knew the accepted duty for the type of turbo you run and power you have.

Who mapped your car?

[QUOTE=Shaun;10479426]So wastegate duty would of told you there was a problem..... assuming you knew the accepted duty for the type of turbo you run and power you have.

Who mapped your car?[/QUOTE

I just understood my 321h turbo and tmic were on their limit but as it turned out they were good for another 40hp, (419.7hp) and at lower boost, this with a change from 10%meth to 20%meth, would have been more if my 650 injectors hadn't maxed at 434hp.
Trev

i cant find any standard plastic dv's so what is a good quality recirculating dv?

cheers

Turbosmart work well.

There seems to be a misconception here. The dump valve does not work on pressure whether it is 1 bar or 2 bar, it actually works on pressure differential. That is what makes it release air.
I have never had complaints with Forge dump valves and Forge Technical Department can supply different springs for different applications but contrary to popular opinion I find that a softer setting usually works better than a very hard setting.
Recirc dump valves where a MAF is in use but for expedience VTA on non MAF systems ie. MAP.

My Turbosmart even on the hard setting is much softer than the standard dv I took off.
Trev