Cooling issue AGAIN! Pleas HELP!!
 

Uk turbo 2000, it's had head gaskets skimmed and preside tested, new water pump, defo working been double checked, new thermostat checked it and it's opening when it should, new radiator. But still I have now cooling.

System will pressurise but there seems to be no water flow, and even when it's says it's a temperature I've got no heating, I've had it in a garage and they don't have any ideas!

Could a blockage in the heater matrix cause the water not to circulate through the radiator?

Starting to get frustrated with the pile of scrap, does anyone have an ideas at all would realy be welcome. Cheers wiggy1

What was the condition of the coolant before you had all the work done?

sounds like it has air lock to me .... if it was mine i would try it without the thermostat just to see if you get any water flo..

how are you filling the sysem up ??

Was using water before I had the work done, I've filled the cooling system slowly via the top radiator house, then topping up the header tank slowly, till full the start engine and bleed through, but seems to be no circulation cheers wiggy1

Could a blockage in the heater matrix cause the water not to circulate through the radiator?

No its would just be like having your heaters on cold is the answer to above.It could be a air lock as surjested or there could of been a load of gunk or bits in your cooling system from before.

Is there anything I can use/buy to flush the cooling system and break down any gunk and/or blockages cheers wiggy1

my subaru mechanc always runs the car until hot with the caps off then tops it up , never had any issues, sounds like an air lock

The heater matrix has a bypass. It sounds like an airlock.

was the heater working before you did the work?
check the thermostat is working, even new ones can fail - dump it in a bowl with boiling water to check it opens.

drain and refill the system making sure the heater is set to hot

Spoke to the mechanic today and he said, that there is no flow through the matrix! He's tryrd blowing through with an air line and there's nothing, he's going to bypass it and see if that works.

reverse flush the matrix

Hi if there is gunk in the system from previous eg oil mixed with coolant you can use trf to clean the system or washing powder by using a cup at a time its a ball ake of a job to do but it does work the only other problem is your coolant pipes could be soft if there has been excessive oil in the cooling system.Its hard to say as i have not seen the car.

Im going to give it ago with flushing with a dish washer tablet, was advices to use this as it breaks down the crap and helps remove lime scale. But for now going to bypass matrix to get back on the road I've not had the thing for 2 months now and I've had to beg and steal to get lifts to work.

Did I read one of your posts right, that you have used it with just water in the cooling system?

If so, the water will have done damage, corrosion, rotting of pipes, perishing of rubber....:(

Was only on water for about 5 days until I took the engine to have gaskets done so hopefully no damage

You should be ok but this could be your problem if you have had just warter in the cooling system this would cause a build up of rust espicaly when your heads have been off.If I was you I would not use the car till you have sorted the problem because you will end up damanging something even your headgaskets again.Hope it goes ok for you when flushing your cooling system.As I said before it can be a ball ake and could take you the best part of the day to do the job.Just make sure you bleed the system and check your bottom hose is getting hot etc.Another thing is when you drop the coolant after you have been running the engine dont fill it with cold warter as this can cause problems.

hi my heating keeps going cold when on tick over and sometimes it will chuck steam out header tank i had a new rad in it then if u booted it the temp gauge would rise never hit top as never let it if u drive at 60mph it will sit normal in traffic its fine but loose heat i have block tested it 3 times now and it shows head gasket is fine any idears coz its doing my nut in only had it 3days

Two ideas for you: try to write in English, with punctuation, ie: full stops etc.
And write in short paragraphs.

I'm not kidding mate, you WILL get more, and better replies if you do the above.;)

OK, onto the problem: sounds like an air lock.

AFAIK, there is NO method of bleeding the cooling system, so drain it, (into a container if the coolant is relatively fresh), and then, with the heater set to hot, refill it VERY slowly using a funnel or similar into the rearmost pipe off the header tank, the metal one on top of the engine.

And when I say SLOW, I mean mine took over 20 minutes to fill;)

Once the header tank brims, replace pipe and start engine, leaving cap OFF.
Allow to run until it gets hot, mopping up any overflow and topping up if the level falls.

Once it's hot, replace the header tank cap, and, still with heater set to hot, drive round the block.

Allow to cool and check levels, topping up if necessary.

ALWAYS use 50% decent anti-freeze, of a type suitable for alloy engines, and with a corrosion inhibitor. DO NOT mix types!

HTH

It does not matter if you have the heater on hot or cold, as there is no valve, so there is always water going through te Heater matrix ,
So if you turn it to hot, you just have to wait longer :)

/Skassa

With the heater on hot it will tell you if the car has a air lock or not.

So why, if there is no valve, do you have to wait longer?

It will take longer to get engine to full temp with fans kicking in if heater blower is on full because all the heat from the matrix is been blown into the car.But its like saying shut the bonnet and the engine will heat up quicker.

No-one mentioned heater blower.........

OP: just do it as I said, OK?

Its just like saying

You most also open the left rear Window, when driving around thats the only way the air will escape :)

Aye, whatever.
When you've finished being clever, can we try and help the OP, or not?