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Your ride height is the wrong way round. It seems that the front should be higher than the rear (it is like this on standard suspension and it is best to maintain this after lowering).
D. |
Originally Posted by DJB3
(Post 10759537)
Your ride height is the wrong way round. It seems that the front should be higher than the rear (it is like this on standard suspension and it is best to maintain this after lowering).
D. 330mm front 335mm back, 1.65 degrees front camber 1.48 rear ( toe in on rear very slight) near 0 toe on front. (cant remember caster without looking but from memory around 4.5deg forward) Set 5 from stiffest settings on tein type flex (3 clicks stiffer on front than back) The above for fast road. |
Originally Posted by dazzer98
(Post 10752637)
i just didnt know how complicated suspension could be. ive read most of the threads about camber castor and ride height.
i have BC coilovers with various whiteline goodies ive not been on track with this set up yet. i will be getting my geometry set up in a week or so, from reading other threads would the best set up be camber -2 at the front -2.5 at the rear, castor as much as poss. with slight toe in at the rear. my ride height with my track tyres is 335 front and 345 back. i will be doing around 2k road miles a year(very few motorway miles) and a fair few trackdays (money premitting) is the camber to harsh for the amount of road miles i will be doing? thanks for any help dazzer As said you should be higher at the front, as you shouldn't be setting much rake into the car. A few reasons for this, but the main ones are that you will be reducing rear droop as well as reducing effective front caster angle (sort of). Other thing is at the front ride height your roll centre will be below the ground and cause some sideways migration. A roll centre correction will be a must Generally speaking a good starting point would be as follows: Classic front 350 rear 345 01-04 front 370 rear 360 05 front 380 rear 360 As for camber, you're about right there, but I would go for toe-in up front (and rear) of ~0.08° for both |
thanks for the replies, i have a 98 wrx, i have various whiteline mods underneath arb drop links and rear arms, also having roll centre kit and antilift kit and 4 point lower brace fitted this weekend, also getting the free castor upgrade by rotating 180'
i set my ride height about 2 years ago when fitting my bc's unaware of the importance, but after getting a trackday addiction im looking for the optimum set up. thanks again |
Is flipping the top mounts and rotating, for the free castor mod worthwhile if you have an Anti lift kit fitted?
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Originally Posted by rickya
(Post 10938636)
Is flipping the top mounts and rotating, for the free castor mod worthwhile if you have an Anti lift kit fitted?
I think it is. I did it on my car. |
Originally Posted by rickya
(Post 10938636)
Is flipping the top mounts and rotating, for the free castor mod worthwhile if you have an Anti lift kit fitted?
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How much camber adjustment do you lose? Also if you want more do use other holes on top mount with thread?
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Originally Posted by bonesetter
(Post 10398355)
I'll jump in as Arnie hasn't come back yet...he's really the best chap to speak and will prolly add something
Below is a fast road geo print out for a classic. The set-up works very well. There is a fair amount of toe-in (front & rear) which can feel slightly disconnected at slowish straight ahead driving, but comes alive when pushing on and is what I use on my classics. Note the amount of castor which is a fair bit for a classic (you want as much as possible). This was achieved with an ALK. If your Impreza is a New Age you will have this amount of castor anyway (see Arnie's tips for getting more castor below) Note: Toe settings and measurements for both below are toe-IN https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...2520struts.jpg Here is a New Age print out with more castor. The camber is a little excessive and perhaps one and three quarter degrees may be better, but toe-in is the same https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2.../alignment.jpg |
Thread from the dead I know but rather a bump than start a new thread for an easy question :)
Will the standard front camber bolts on a newage let you run -1.5 degrees ? Or is it best to get eibachs? |
wow, talk about resurrection, i remember this thread but I am sorry not able to answer your question, also I am no longer in the Scooby Arena, now driving BMW 535D M Sport, which I recently got a stage 2 remap running
352 bhp /518 lbs/ft torque:D |
Don't think you will get -1.50 on the stock camber bolt unless your car has been lowered lots.
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Lowered 35mm on springs, I'll just play it safe and get eibach bolts all round.
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How would I find out the correct geometry settings for a 2006 hawkeye sti Spec D fitted with BC BR coilovers, rota GRA's with Michelin Pilot sport 4's
Thanks |
Originally Posted by WarrenSTI
(Post 11821704)
How would I find out the correct geometry settings for a 2006 hawkeye sti Spec D fitted with BC BR coilovers, rota GRA's with Michelin Pilot sport 4's
Thanks |
Subscribed
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...22618d33e2.jpg
This is my current setup on my p1. Is this a good setup for fast road? |
Originally Posted by veerinder9
(Post 11821764)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...22618d33e2.jpg
This is my current setup on my p1. Is this a good setup for fast road? |
Does this make sensevery to anyone?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...6c148a073b.jpg And what settings to go on my new set up? Exe tc external reservoir coilovers White line max c top mounts front BC adjustable camber rear top mounts Anti lift kit Roll centre correction kit Front camber bolts and exe tc inserts Is it worth doing the caster mod to my alloy arms? Anything else to add? Car is mainly a track toy and fair weather hooner. Run semi slick ns2r most of the times and will take me years to do 5k miles. Lots of drag racing and some sprints etc |
Originally Posted by Ginola
(Post 11824774)
I would say you would want a little more camber than that but not to bad otherwise, (you will gain some lateral grip with circa 1.5degrees.
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@InTurbo had Peter Cambridge (ex-Prodrive road suspension designer) set-up his '07sti Hawk - RB320 suspension and rear bar.
Post 136 https://www.scoobynet.com/1016983-bi...k-roads-5.html Full fuel tank: Front camber -1 deg 30mins Front toe-in 0.03 per side Rear camber -0.59 mins Rear toe-in 0.03 per side I think he's now running 1deg 50mins front camber, due to fitting Whiteline kca335 front top mounts. |
Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
(Post 11824786)
Does this make sensevery to anyone?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...6c148a073b.jpg And what settings to go on my new set up? Exe tc external reservoir coilovers White line max c top mounts front BC adjustable camber rear top mounts Anti lift kit Roll centre correction kit Front camber bolts and exe tc inserts Is it worth doing the caster mod to my alloy arms? Anything else to add? Car is mainly a track toy and fair weather hooner. Run semi slick ns2r most of the times and will take me years to do 5k miles. Lots of drag racing and some sprints etc Maximum caster adjustment Start at Neg 2 deg 30mins camber (won't help your 60ft times) - reduce, if excessive tyre wear. Front Toe - start at zero. If your bars aren't giving you the balance you want, then: 0.04 Toe-in per side, sharper turn-in - might induce mid-corner understeer 0.04 Toe-out per side, if car too responsive or twitchy. Turn-in less sharp. Gives throttle controlled oversteer. Rear: Neg 1 deg camber Toe-in 0.15 per side http://www.pcadynamics.com/app/downl...+-+Insider.pdf |
So what settings would be best for my mainly drag and fast road stuff? 60ft times are important.
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
(Post 11825498)
So what settings would be best for my mainly drag and fast road stuff? 60ft times are important.
Start at neg 1deg 30mins camber and work toward neg 2deg 30mins. |
Originally Posted by 2pot
(Post 11825514)
You'll have to adjust the front camber, to see how much the 60 ft times increase.
Start at neg 1deg 30mins camber and work toward neg 2deg 30mins. So the guy doing the set up will understand what 1deg 30mins means? |
If it's your local quick fit then they will probs only set it up to standard,
Where are you ? If you take it to a garage that does Fast road set ups regularly they may well have settings saved. But yea if they are real mechanics and you gave them a printout or told them settings then they should be able to match them or at least get as close as yours allows. |
Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
(Post 11825518)
You might as well be talking Spanish......
So the guy doing the set up will understand what 1deg 30mins means? 1deg 30 mins = 1.50 degrees 2deg 30 mins = 2.50 degrees Front toe-in/out: 0.04mins per side = 0.067 degree per side Rear toe-in 0.15mins per side = 0.25 degree per side |
Originally Posted by 2pot
(Post 11825533)
Depends if the alignment rig is in degrees or degrees and minutes. Your A1 Bodmin printout is in degrees. Veerinder9's printout is degrees minutes
1deg 30 mins = 1.50 degrees 2deg 30 mins = 2.50 degrees Front toe-in/out: 0.04mins per side = 0.067 degree per side Rear toe-in 0.15mins per side = 0.25 degree per side So do you have list of all the setting I should be putting on there? Drag is important as I want to be the first car to do a 10 down the strip at the new venue. Then will adjust at a later date if required. It's best to adjust camber from the bolts and inserts with the coilovers as opposed to the top mounts? And use the top mounts for caster? Is it worth doing the free caster mod on my lower arms too? |
Yes -flip the pins 180 deg, for extra caster.
Use whatever orientation of the top mounts, gives you the max caster. Front: Maximum caster adjustment Start at Neg 1 deg 30mins camber = 1.50deg camber Front Toe - 0 deg Rear: Neg 1 deg camber Toe-in 0.15mins per side = 0.25 deg per side. |
Originally Posted by 2pot
(Post 11826335)
Yes -flip the pins 180 deg, for extra caster.
Use whatever orientation of the top mounts, gives you the max caster. Front: Maximum caster adjustment Start at Neg 1 deg 30mins camber = 1.50deg camber Front Toe - 0 deg Rear: Neg 1 deg camber Toe-in 0.15mins per side = 0.25 deg per side. That doesn't sound overly aggressive compared to some of the set ups I've seen. Is there a reason for that? Car is over 500hp if that makes any difference? Thanks for the advice. I advice i appreciate it |
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