rear arch repairs (rust!)
 

Afternoon all,

Whilst browsing through some threads earlier on, I'm sure i saw someone mention that there are no rear arch repair panels available for classics. is this correct?
I'm sure there will be people on here whose rear arches (and in my case a-pillar by the aeriel too) have suffered a bit from rot, and I was wondering what they've had doen to get this sorted out?
The car's black so I really really don't fancy attackign it with the p38 and rattle cans!:D

You have 2 options really, and it also depends on how long the rust has been left....
If its only just started to bubble on the inner lip then it may not cost you a fortune, if its visible up the side of the wing then its going to probably need cutting out and new metal putting in there :(
Also it depends on who you go to, mine was very minor (just a few minor bubbles on the inner arch, still took a fair bit of sanding back and treating though) so if its just like that, probably cost you a couple of hundred quid per side, if its bad then its going to cost you more.

Tony:)

Thanks Tony.

Sadly, mine's bubbling on the side of the rear 1/4. it's not a large patch but, knowing how these things go from my Ford days, i Expect things could be considerably worse once it starts getting cut back.

If it's a matter of putting in fresh metal I may well go to the guy that did all the fabrication work on my old mk 2 escort - retromotorsport in harlow, and see what he has to say on the matter...

I'm in the same boat here. We need to find the original thread and poke the OP to see whsat's going on, if owt.

I'm sure if someone could make some, they would sell. I just don't fancvy the f/glass method.

I found a good body shop who charge £200 per arch to do them properly. Not completely sure what they do but he did mention something about cutting the area back, shot blasting it then rebuilding it. Same can be done on the rear pillar, that's what I will be getting done next. Both my rear arches are perfect now.

You need to remember that it doesn't matter what is done. Eventually it will come back. It's just the nature of old cars.

sounds like a good price to me.. is that painted?

I appreciate it will ceom back eventually, but at least it would be sorted for a few years!

Yes that's including painting. Properly blended as well.

ive seen the genuine subaru replacement rear arch section for a hawkeye and its a big old job, it was the intire rear section,including the bit that goes past the rear window,so id rather have the small lip/area cut out and replaced than the intire rear arch section cut out/re-welded back in.(unless you trust the body shop some what !)

I have seen it before on other cars and folk buy the whole rear quarter pannel and cut the arch section out of the pannel and cut off the bad area and just weld that into place instead of the whole quarter pannel

definitely thinking more repair than replace the whole rear 1/4 to be honest!

well impressed with 200 quid to repair and blend in though Chris!

I had my arches rolled by Steve at SGM Racepaint - they used to prepare all the Prodrive WRC rally shells - and did the RCM Gobstopper. Nice bloke and did a very good job. When the arches are rolled it can crack the paint - and require a bit fettling - which I saw from the photos he took at each stage - so similar sort of process as regards finishing. Price was close to the above - and was a really nice chap. They're on the same industrial estate as Prodrive.

http://www.sgmracepaint.co.uk/contact.php

i just took my scoob to the garage to get the rr quarter done, there where some bubbles the bloke sanded it back and theres was a ****ing hole with filler in it, who ever done it last time was a dick, just watch out if your arches have been repaired be carefull there not rusting from the inside out like mine where! anywasy they both been dug out and new metal welded in and done properly! yey for me! :)

That's how a lot of them go, from the inside.

Intelligence in the community has it that disturbing the rear bumper with a knock can cause it to go, since it tears the mounting point rustproofing.

seems like it's a bit of a suck it and see thing to be honest...

will have a word with a couple fo body shops and see what they say..

It'll just taste of rust, with maybe a bit of salt. TBH, you could get the same taste by sucking a nail.

lol. maybe i'll just try a nail instead then.. probably cheaper.