running in a new engine
 

what's the best way to run in a new engine before I get it mapped up to now I've done 58 miles without going over 2500 rpm and no boost

an oil and filter change early on is always a good idea, as for running in once you have done the first oil change it should be good to go mate

???

Ask your engine builder and follow their advice.

My engine (WMS Forged 2.5) was 4k rpm, wastegate pressure only (0.5 Bar) and lots of over-run for 500 miles on mineral oil.
Then oil/filter change and up the rev/boost limit to 5k/1bar for 1.5k miles.

Extract from the Cosworth instructions for their 2.5's

Pdf file here

Before Starting
During the break-in process, we recommend using a high quality API SJ or newer mineral 20W-50 engine oil. We also recommend using a genuine Subaru oil filter. Do NOT use a synthetic or synthetic blend during the break-in process. Replace the oil immediately after the break-in procedure or 500 miles (whichever comes first). We also strongly recommend priming the engine’s oil system before starting. To do this, make sure there is no fuel or spark by disconnecting either the ECU or by removing the appropriate fuses and/or relays. Then crank the engine until there is oil pressure registering on an oil pressure gauge (you or your mechanic must install one). When first starting the engine, be sure to keep the engine speed above 2000rpm to ensure the tappet buckets and cam lobes have adequate oil.

Engine Break-in

It is critical that your Cosworth engine is not started with an excessively rich fuel mixture. An excessively rich mixture will wash away the oil in the cylinders and the rings can potentially never break-in causing excessive oil consumption, crankcase blow-by and lower power output. This damage is permanent.
If the engine will be broken in by driving the car, we recommend you keep the engine speed below 4000 rpm. Drive the vehicle at various loads, speeds, and throttle positions while keeping engine speeds below 4000 rpm for approximately 1000 miles or 1660 kilometers. The longer the engine is broken in, the better your results will be. If breaking your engine in on an engine dynamometer, follow the break in procedure detailed below. You can use the guideline for a chassis dynamometer as well, but load readings will differ. If using a chassis dynamometer make sure to keep water temperatures below 95 degrees Celsius and oil temperatures below 110 degrees Celsius.
• Run at 2000rpm @ 50-60 lbf-ft. load for 20 minutes
• Run at 3500rpm @ 90-100 lbf-ft. load for 20 minutes
• Run at 4250rpm @ 100-110 lbf-ft. load for 10 minutes
• Run at 4250rpm @ 125-135 lbf-ft. load for 5 minutes
• Run at 5500rpm @ 125-135 lbf-ft. load for 5 minutes
• Run at 5700 rpm @ WOT for 2 minutes (not to exceed 300 lbf-ft.)
During the final break-in stage, the boost should be limited so as not to exceed 350 lbf-ft. of torque.
Some initial ECU calibration activity may be required to complete break-in with proper air fuel ratios. The engine should be calibrated to achieve an air fuel ratio rich enough for the type of fuel you are using.
Consult with a professional tuner if you are unsure of an air fuel ratio the engine requires. Boost should be regulated so as not to exceed 300 lbf-ft. of torque during the break in process. Once ECU calibration is complete up to 7000rpm, the short block should be ready for a WOT, full power run throughout the entire range.

that's the info I was looking for cheers

Whats is ??? about the above? I would change the oil filter NOW so you are not driving around in contaminated oil from all the crap that got into the engine during the re-build. Then just drive it normally, no need to run an engine in these days.

so your saying after 58 miles of driving a 2k+ engine you would drop the oil put new oil filter on and just go for it

Yes, so long as the mapping is correct.

I'm going for 20 minutes at 50% revs, oil change followed by 500 miles of low boost + half revs, then oil change and mapping.

dunx

P.S. Unless Alan J. tells me otherwise LoL

Run it in and map it on a dyno all on the same day, easy! ;)

Graham

yep, it will either work or it wont! I never ran in my brand new car or any brand new/re built engines engines, and some of those engines have cost similar money

I ran my rebuilt classic STi low revs and no boost for 600 miles,then oil and filter change then gradual use of boost not prolonged whilst keeping below 6000rpm for the next 400 miles.
After the 1000mile run in i now drive it as i did before(not thrashed but i do use WOT)and enjoy the car as its intended to be driven,only after oil is up to temperature)
No problems whatsoever i am going to get all the fluids changed shortly as i am approaching 3000 miles since rebuild.

I recon Graham has the right idea and will be arranging to get my car to him soon. Been plodding around my local town but don't fancy a 160 mile trek with the car nit being setup.

if its well rich then you could be bore washing it to death and causing quite a bit of damage, you got a wideband gauge installed? I just bought an AEM one, its the biz

On modern engines the only thing that really needs bedding in is the rings, hence using mineral oil at first. Ive never come across a problem due to not running in properly. It would be interesting to hear if anyone has, and how that manifested itself? The WRX test car Graham and myself are playing with had 100 miles on mineral oil, it then went straight on the dyno after an oil change, so far so good.

I totally agree, the rings are the only thing that will bed in, and they will do so very quickly. After an oil change as you say from around 100 miles that will be the engine ready to rock and roll.
The mian bearings, big end bearings, cam bearings and all other rotational parts should not wear or need any bedding in at all! the clearance of a typical bearing will be around 0.002" on diameter so no wear is permissable there! also i have stripped many engines that have covered over 100k miles and the bearings still look as new, so does the crank.
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/187a7ddd.jpg