more engine removal - 2 nuts on bellhousing
 

Morning folks,

more from the ongoing saga of removing my engine...

all went really well on Sunday initially - took about 2 hours to get the engine into a position to be removed, barring undoing the remaining bolts/nuts on the bellhousing, so I had a spot of lunch, watched the F1, then went back to it. Bolts ewre no problem, but the 2 nuts on the bottom of the bellhousing were a totally different ballgame!

the main problem seems to be access - the driveshafts are in the way so I can't use an extension on the ratchet, but without one, when trying to undo them, the ratchet scrapes along the crossmember which twists the socket off of the nut.

The removal guide i was following said that it would take some maneuvering to get at them, but it seems to me that this is understating the problem by some way!
I have now successfully rounded off the one on the passenger side due to slipping socket when trying to undo it from above, and the driver's side one is still in situ... no access from the top due to the downpipe.

please please please somebody tell me how i get these things off?
I had to give up on Sunday as I was getting somewhat frustrated and wasn't a million miles away from setting about the car with a hammer in my anger!

I found when I took an engine out I have the same problem with the driveshafts so I just disconnected (which is very easy to do) so i could gain access. As for the rung off one that is going to me off a problem. If you try removing the driveshafts and get the driverside one out and then we can go from there
Hope this has helped

Thanks Lau.

When you say easy, how easy?
Don't suppose there's a guide on here anywhere is there?

Really easy just a bit fidderly :). dunno if there is a guide on here though. all you need to do is slide gaiter back so you can see where it joins and there is basically a pin that goes though it. just tap that out carefully and should pop off (mine was awkward to tap out so dont get put of it is a bit of a pain to start)

Thanks for that. sounds like it should be within my abilities!
I did find some kind of guide, but it was for the other end and involved splitting ball joints etc etc... which i really don't fancy!
seems odd to me that it woudl just pop out with the pin removed and without undoing the wishbone or something, but i'll give it a go!

gas.....

gas? as in pour some petrol on the car and torch it? crossed my mind on sunday...

Na lol, was thinking gas axe as a joke! ive nothing usefull to add sorry

Is there any reason why a spanner can't be used?

Ive never had trouble using a spanner from the top of the engine

Have tried with a spanner but can't get the leverage on it to get the nut to turn.
going in from the top is a definite no-no for the driver's side, and as i mentioend above, the crossmember seems to get right int he way from underneath.

have given both of them a good soak in penetrating oil too...

Two spanner for more leverage. Stick a ring spanner on the nut then another spanner on the open jaws of the spanner used. The spanners now double the length so loads of leverage

that's actually not too dissimilar to how i managed to muller the passenger side one... socket + ratchet + box spanner on the end of ratchet for extra leverage = nut in a state + bruised knuckles!

a mate suggested that i split the nut off by placing a chisel on what's left of one of the flats then hitting with a hammer... allegedly the only downside to this approach would be that i'd need to replace the stud as well afterwards but I'm not convinced! Anyone got any thoughts on his idea?

A proper nut spliter in that case.

wobble nuckle 14mm socket on a exstenchion bar easy done, go under the drivers door youwill see the way to go.
Slab

that will help :lol1:

Will try from under the driver's door, but the wobbly knuckle thing on the ratchet just seems to exacerbate the problem i was having with the other nut.

I think a nut splitter may be the way forward for the knackered one, and will have a go at the drive shafts for the one that's still intact. :(

To remove the rounded nut do yourself a favour and get a set of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-10-P...item43a0f365f8
Im a mechanic and swear by these they have come through for me time and time again.
Also ive removed my gearbox many times and i just use a wobbly and always try to use an impact socket rather than a course/splined socket.

They look promising.

pardon my ignorance, but what's a wobbly? and what's the difference between an impact socket and a splined one?

A wobbly is like a universal joint, it all comes down to the wrong tools for job. A good selection of tools really is a must.
Also the comment about the impact socket, an impact socket will have 6 side opposed to a multi sided socket which has a greater chance of slipping.

Hi mate, to remove the driveshaft from gearbox side all you have to do is remove the driveshft pins on both driveshfts then get a crow bar so it is vetival next to the gearbox and lever gearbox to one side that will give you enough room to remove the driveshaft...repeat for other side of box.

no need to remove the wishbone ball joint bolt.

then tackle to rounded bolt.

Tried with a wobbly... couldn't get on with it - it kept wobbling about, which i know is the idea but it just didn't allow the socket to stay on properly whilst i turned the ratchet.

I suspected that might be what was meant by an impact socket... I did have some somewhere but they appear to have vanished.

Miami - thanks for that advice. sounds like it may be within my abilities! Question though - how much force will i need to apply to this? the car's up on wooden blocks (under the wheels) at the moment and i'm not sure I want to be levering things about from underneath whilst it's like that!
Also, how much of a pain is it to get them back in again afterwards?

i'm pretty sure that without the shafts in the way the bolts will be manageable.......

Don't mean to sound funny mate but if you have any doubts about how stable your car is you should not be climbing under it.
Get some axle stands or wheel ramps and do it safely.

You don't sound funny at all mate... I know exactly what you mean.
I've given it a good rock backwards and forwards and side to side after it's been up on the blocks and it showed no signs of moving so it should be ok. I was just thinking of the extra leverage from the bar is all, so it's more of a paranoia thing.

I suppose it couldn't hurt to chuck a couple of extra supports under it just in case...

Hi mate, not that much leverage....if you get a long cro bar and lever the box you get about 1 to 1 1/2" room so the shft will come out. The box moves with the engine on the mounts so doesnt take much force.

Once the box is back in you just have to lever the box from right and left to get driveshafts back in.

ok, thanks.

Final question - is it obvious what i should be levering against when i'm doing this?
Sorry for all the quesitons, but i get a bit paranoid when i'm taking things to pieces in case i cant' get them back together again - it's happened before!

PS - not taking the box out - this is all so i can get the bottom bellousing nuts undone!!

No probs pal,

All i did was got a big pry bar, and put it behind the joint on the shaft, and against one of the bolts on the gearbox case...... and levered it out, i was surprised at how little effort it took, so, my advise would be, if it doesn't come off easily, turn the shaft slightly, and try again, as sometimes the snap ring needs to be in a certain position.,.....

We are all here to help, so just ask....:thumb:

hope you get it sorted fella.

OK, thanks very much. That's it sealed.. will have a crack at it this weekend... then just got to get the remains of the starter bolt out the block!!!

No probs pal....

have you managed to get the rounded bolt off?