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noobie on getting more BHP?
hello,
ok i have a fairly standard 2000 UK Turbo.. Lets say i have some monies.. If i replaced the turbo with an Uprated one.. Boost controller etc.. replaced injectors and fuel rail and pump and added a front mount intercooler.. Then had a remap etc.. Ok well basically sorry about not making sense but what else would i need to, you know "Soop up the BHP" on my car when i upgrade the turbo?.. also What is the most BHP you can achieve on the standard Lump turbo 2000 UK 2.0 Turbo, lets say if i done the above an upgraded the turbo, without changing internals?.. Thanks! sorry if it sounds like a thick question haha! :luxhello::p |
330-350ish
Depends on the parts used. |
hmmmm that will do me :)...
So thats the most you can get on the standard lump without changing internals and sacraficing reliability yadda yadda?? thanks btw! |
Sounds like about what you would need :)
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I will tell you what I have picked up over the years. But it comes with a disclaimer.. What I say is just my opinion, it's not fact. It's what I have picked up over the years from here and actually running and modifying my car. There are people that will probably disagree with me and many that will know better. :)
Anyway... On standard internals and standard gearbox the maximum you you want to push the car to would be 340/340 bhp/torque. To achieve this you will need the basics... Free flowing exhaust (3" diameter straight through) and air filter. Then you need to look at turbo's. Your stock turbo is a TD04 which is pretty much maxed out at 280bhp. What most people do is look to the STI range and especially the later STI's for a straight fit replacement. Many run VF35 or the rarer VF34 (do a search and you'll find plenty of info. Another option is the TD05. Also look into a fuel pump (Walbro 255 is most common) and spark plugs. A good quality oil is also always a plus. Your car will have the 440 yellow injectors which will be fine for that kind of power. Do your research and spend some money in the right places and you'll see some good results. Factor in the money for a decent remap by a reputable mapper, again the search function is your friend. ECUTEK will probably be the best and most cost effective option for your car. Check out Floyds thread in the Projects section. Make a cup of tea and read it from start to finish! Good luck! |
It very much depends on what parts you use and what the stock parts are.
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I don't know why I bothered typing all that out I should have just linked you to Andy F's website...
99-00 UK/EURO STD 218 bhp Level 1 260-280 bhp Full Decat or Sportscat exhaust from turbo back 2.5 or 3” bore Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump K&N panel filter and resonator delete Ecutek Custom remap of original ECU (similar to PPP) Level 2 290-310bhp Full Decat or Sportscat exhaust from turbo back 2.5 or 3” bore Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump K&N panel filter and resonator delete Ecutek Custom Ecu recalibration Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge AFP 04-H custom ported hybrid turbo Uprated turbo to intercooler 'Y' pipe NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs Level 2(a) 300-320 bhp Substitute VF34/35 or TD05-16G turbo in place of AFP 04-H for additional 10-20bhp but with slightly later turbo spool up. Level 3 360-390 bhp Full Decat turbo back 3” bore exhaust system Tubular exhaust headers and flow matched uppipe Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump Apexi Induction System NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge STI V7/8 TMIC & matching undertray 0r Front mount intercooler AFP 05-20G custom ported turbocharger Phase 2 550cc Injectors (std 440cc) Stand alone fully mappable SimTek ECU with twin maps, permitting use of different fuels or octane booster and elimating the MAF sensor Note The MAF (mass air flow sensor) on this model is particularly fragile, sensor failure can cause considerable engine damage on Level 3 and above. The Simtek ECU does not use the MAF, eliminating the requirement to change this sensor regularly. Note Level 3 Power may shorten the life of the transmission system this will depend on use and driving style. Level 4 390-410 bhp Full Decat turbo back 3” bore exhaust system Tubular exhaust headers and flow matched uppipe Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge STI V7/8 TMIC & matching undertray 0r Front mount intercooler AFP 321H custom turbocharger with fitting kit 740cc Phase 2 Fuel Injectors Custom Cold air induction system Stand alone fully mappable SimTek ECU with twin maps, permitting use of different fuels or octane booster and elimating the MAF sensor Note We do not recommended level 4-5 on standard internals, clutch or gearbox. As a mimium we recommend forged piston, steel rods, steel head gaskets and an uprated clutch. We also recommend either a PPG gear kit or 6 speed gearbox conversion ( from later STI) Level 5 420-450 bhp Full Decat turbo back 3” bore exhaust system Tubular exhaust headers and flow matched uppipe Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge STI V7/8 TMIC & matching undertray 0r Front mount intercooler AFP 321T custom turbocharger with fitting kit 740cc Phase 2 Fuel Injectors Custom Cold air induction system Stand alone fully mappable SimTek ECU with twin maps, permitting use of different fuels or octane booster and elimating the MAF sensor Map sensor upgrade to 3 BAR NGK racing 8 spark plugs PLEASE NOTE We have included the tuning section us a guide to what we consider to be the most cost effective steps during tuning. This has been compiled with the benefit of experiencing hundreds of upgrades. There are other parts/turbos that can be substituted but the listed parts we have found to give the most consistant results over many installations. Your own ideals may vary depending on the parts you may currently have fitted. Our suggested levels are compiled to mimise incompatible components, it is not ideal to fit a turbo that your fuel system cannot support for example, We do not do parts fitting here so I can't give you a full price, the components in the tuning stages are listed in order to allow you to select the most cost effective route to power and in turn allow us to achieve the best results from your car. Our core business is ECU Custom Mapping and Hybrid turbocharger design/building. We are not here to try and sell you the parts with the biggest profit margin, we can however supply (for local collection or mail order) all the tuning parts listed if required. Optionally you can source them yourself or arrange for the garage doing the fitting to supply them. The individual parts prices can be found on the website on their respective pages We can recommend specialist garages within a 100 mile radius that work with us on a regular basis to fit the parts if required. These garages have been specially selected as places that are very experienced specifically with Subarus and work on a daily basis with this type of car. We recommend them as we know they will look after your car and their attention to detail will ensure maximum reliability. It is perfectly safe to have the parts fitted and then drive to us off boost (this still allows cruising at 70mph) for final setup and custom mapping. We have had cars drive over 400 miles to have this done. Predicted BHP figures are approximations, our section on “rolling roads” explains in some detail why it is impossible to give exact figures. http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58730.html |
Great post!
thanks everyone really helped me loads! :) |
Can some explain 'resonator delete' please.
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Can get very expensive very quickly at mid 300s on your model.
Engine longevity will likely be affected and the gearbox won't be too happy. Been there and done that. Stripped 2nd gear clean on MY99 UK and a gearbox that can cope you are looking at almost more than the car is worth IMHO. Buy a Bug STi or newer and you will have a much stronger base to begin with. |
Originally Posted by Aztec Performance Ltd
(Post 10080554)
Buy a Bug STi or newer and you will have a much stronger base to begin with.
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And looks that only a mother could love ;)
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What power can the same year STi running gear take?
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no offensive but why would i go and buy a bug eye STi when ive just bought a turbo 2000 im really happy with? lol there seems to be lots of peple on here that have 350 bhp on standard and there cars are fine so maybe ill just go for 300-320 and be happy :).
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Originally Posted by 99jdee
(Post 10080803)
no offensive but why would i go and buy a bug eye STi when ive just bought a turbo 2000 im really happy with? lol there seems to be lots of peple on here that have 350 bhp on standard and there cars are fine so maybe ill just go for 300-320 and be happy :).
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Originally Posted by drewbie
(Post 10080430)
Can some explain 'resonator delete' please.
The resonator delete is simply removing the resonator and running a cold air feed straight to the air filter. |
Originally Posted by 99jdee
(Post 10080803)
no offensive but why would i go and buy a bug eye STi when ive just bought a turbo 2000 im really happy with? lol there seems to be lots of peple on here that have 350 bhp on standard and there cars are fine so maybe ill just go for 300-320 and be happy :).
320bhp is good figure to aim for. You'll have a quick car at that power. Also remember that all out power isn't the be all and end all. Look at suspension and braking upgrades as well. I'd swap a car that handles and brakes well over one with a big power graph to slap on teh windscreen any day. It's all about the enjoyment you get from driving the car not some bull**** numbers. |
Originally Posted by MovingShadow
(Post 10081010)
You'll probably find that there are in actual fact very few people running 350bhp on standard internals and standard gearbox. As Bob says its pushing things beyond their limit at at that and gets very expensive. Remember what people say they're running and the actual power their car puts out can often be very different. Be careful of pub bragging figures.
320bhp is good figure to aim for. You'll have a quick car at that power. Also remember that all out power isn't the be all and end all. Look at suspension and braking upgrades as well. I'd swap a car that handles and brakes well over one with a big power graph to slap on teh windscreen any day. It's all about the enjoyment you get from driving the car not some bull**** numbers. |
Originally Posted by MovingShadow
(Post 10081010)
You'll probably find that there are in actual fact very few people running 350bhp on standard internals and standard gearbox. As Bob says its pushing things beyond their limit at at that and gets very expensive. Remember what people say they're running and the actual power their car puts out can often be very different. Be careful of pub bragging figures.
320bhp is good figure to aim for. You'll have a quick car at that power. Also remember that all out power isn't the be all and end all. Look at suspension and braking upgrades as well. I'd swap a car that handles and brakes well over one with a big power graph to slap on teh windscreen any day. It's all about the enjoyment you get from driving the car not some bull**** numbers. |
What model year car is it as UK turbo 2000 is the generic name and different model years have different issues when it comes to tuning.
Everyone is assuming you have a 2000 model year car but what you have put down isn't clear. For example if you have an my97/98 year car, these have 2 pot front brakes, not very good at stopping the car, also the ecu cannot be mapped so you have to go aftermarket which is additional cost, the gearbox isn't very strong and over 300lbs of torque will break it and the clutch. In reallity when someone said sell and buy a bug sti, you should as they are far better starting points for tuning. Tony:) |
Originally Posted by TonyBurns
(Post 10082301)
What model year car is it as UK turbo 2000 is the generic name and different model years have different issues when it comes to tuning.
Everyone is assuming you have a 2000 model year car but what you have put down isn't clear. For example if you have an my97/98 year car, these have 2 pot front brakes, not very good at stopping the car, also the ecu cannot be mapped so you have to go aftermarket which is additional cost, the gearbox isn't very strong and over 300lbs of torque will break it and the clutch. In reallity when someone said sell and buy a bug sti, you should as they are far better starting points for tuning. Tony:) |
the car is a late 98 on an S reg.. august i believe. thanks.
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Touch and go there then - could by an MY98 or MY99. Get some pics up. Front brakes and engine will give the answer :thumb:
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my brakes are poo :( think it only has the 2 pots.. it really struggles to cope with the harsh braking i give her, thinks i need to uprate brakes too :( more money!
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Well 4 pots aint that expencive and give much better performance but for that bhp i would go brembos/alcons/APs.....and dont forget suspention (coils, bushings,ABRs)
Expencive but it will draw nice smile to your face:) |
If you do have the 2 pots then you have an MY98 in which case a remap is out of the question :(
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