Jap Auction Grades
 

I've found a potentially nice looking fresh import MY00 classic which was auction grade 3...

I've asked the seller (Car Planet) about the grading and was told they used to buy grade 4's min, but with the exchange rate being poor these are now too expensive so they now buy grade 3's. He said these cars are likely to need minor bodywork tidying. This of course will be carried out before selling. Car has a full 12 months parts & labor warranty

Question I have is what are the real world differences between 3 and 4's, is service history a factor in deciding the grade level, are grade 3's even worth bothering with at all?

Thanks

Here's some web info:

Auction Gradings

Most auctions (and some stock dealers) have a grading system which uses numbers and letters to tell the buyer what condition the vehicle is in. Often on inspection sheets, this includes an overall, interior, and sometimes, exterior ratings. This system is a useful way to categorize in general the quality of the vehicle while quickly searching car listings.
Overall Grade:

In most cases, you will see either numbers or a letter or two:

* 6 or above - New and never been driven.
* 5 - Near new. Everything is in top condition.
* 4.5 - Excellent condition. May have some minor issues (small scratches/dents).
* 4 - Good condition. Normal wear and tear at max.
* 3.5 - Average condition. All areas are at an acceptable standard.
* 3 - Various scratches or dents. Some paint missing.
* 2 - In bad condition
* 1 - Very bad condition OR has been modified and in good condition.
* 0, A, A1-A5 - Involved in Accident. If there is a number, higher is worse.
* RA or R - Had accident and repaired.
* R1 - Repaired modified car. For example, adding after-market parts for performance or appeal.
*

* B or C - Had large accident and repaired.
* *** - Good for parts only.

Other Special Overall Grades:

* S - Perfectly new.
* T - Special Purpose vehicle.

Interior Grade:

Most auctions will also provide you will a grading of the interior's condition.

* A - Good condition
* B - Normal wear condition
* C - Needs cleaning/repair
* D - Needs much cleaning/repair

The Car Diagram:

All inspection sheets have a diagram of the car's body. There will be a lot of different marks inspectors will place over this diagram to describe what they see. The following is the most common marking scheme:

* A - Scratch mark
o A1 - About a thumb's width
o A2 - About a palm's width
o A3 - Larger than A2
* B - Section that needs repair work
* C - Corrosion exists
* M - Repaired mark
* W - Repaired wave. Very common to see 1-2 on older cars.
* R - Rust exists
* P - Repainting needed
* X - Body panel needs replacing
* XX or XXX - Panel is replaced
* - A line is generally to show where a scratch is.
* U - Dent
o U1 - Thumb's width
o U2 - Palm's width
o U3 - Larger than U2

Check each Auto Auction's Inspection Sheet for more info on each grading system.

For a car of that age a 3 is okish ,but it will most likely be a dog in all honesty.

Immy

come look at mine mate you will regret it if you dont, a nice p1 with nice rebuild

grade 3 will be tatty mate , iv seen grade 4s that are a mess

also most 3/4s have had paint, panal damage and been ragged at the docks

stu

So, its still in with a chance...?

If I view I'll be seeing the car before anythings done so I suppose that's something. They're sending some high res pics too