classic morette headlights rhd/ lhd
 

hi all I bought some of these a couple of weeks ago for my classic are now painted ready to fit but noticed there was a sticker on with a few numbers and the word France and have looked about and found they come in lhd and rhd so basically what I need to know is if they turn out to be left hand drive how do I convert to rhd have looked on the net and can't find a definate answer but then I'm not the best on computer thanks in advance people

i believe all morettes were made in france and used cibie units for the lights. would have thought if u bought in the Uk the units would be right handed.

hace a read of this doc...

http://www.acesales.co.uk/documents/Veh_Headlights.pdf

if you bought them in the UK chances are they are for the UK, get them fit and take it to an MOT station to check them, if they are wrong then you can go from there, it only takes a few mins to fit them and try it.

probably won't get them in till Friday as flat out but will see how I get on and let you know thanks. are these fairly straight forward to wire up as second hand and no diagram etc

OK, to answer the RHD/LHD question first:

The outer, larger light units are dip/main, using an H4 bulb. Looking at the front glass of the units, you can see vertical bars on the inside of the glass, which act like a lens, to focus the light where it should be.

If the lights are RHD, (ie: made for UK use) there wil be an area to the LEFT of the light's centre, and slightly below centre, which is different fron the rest. It is roughly like a triangle on it's side, with one edge along the horizontal diameter of the light, the triangles WIDER edge at the OUTER left hand edge of the light.

If the lights are for LHD, ie: to use on the continent, those "triangle shapes" wil be to the RIGHT of the centre of the light units.

Incidentally, if you ever do take the car abroad, simply black tape over those traingles, you have altered the assymetric dip to a flat line, no cutoff.

Now the wiring:

You need a simple on/off relay, 4, or 5 terminal type.
The terminals should be labelled 85, 96, 87 and 30. The five terminal type will have TWO 87's, or 87a and 87b.

You also need an inline blade fuse and carrier, or use a fused relay.

You need to have a circuit tester: mine is brass bodied with a sharp point on the end. When you pierce the insulation of a live wire, or touch a live wire, a bulb in the handle lights up. Costs £3 or so from carshops.

Start by finding out which wire behind one of the H4 connectors is live ONLY when main beam is selected. The H4 connector needs to be on the bulb to do this.

Scotchlok, or similar, a wire from that cable to relay terminal 85.
Take another wire from relay terminal 86 to earth.

Test by having someone select main, then dip, then main. You should be able to hear, or feel the relay clicking.

Now take a wire via the fuse if used from battery +ve to relay terminal 30.
Finally run wires from relay terminal 87 to each inner light and from each inner light second wire to earth.

Fuse needs to be 20A. Use decent crimp terminals with separate covers, NOT those horrid ones with colored rings on them. I solder mine for extra security.

Most of my stuff, wire, relays, terminals etc etc comes from www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

Job should be a good 'un.