whats the story mornin glory

I've e-mailed him, see if we can get a response.

All the classics are turning to dust while we are waiting:D

Sorry guys been busy removing rear sub frame and aux. Car will be going down next few days for pattern. Will keep u posted.

Cheers sean, as I said, I have two other places interested as well as me;)

I'd probably buy a couple as well for future-proofing if they're good.

Drivers side has been repaired recently and passenger side is original and fine, but will go eventually.

Why are people not going for the fibreglass ones? Surely it is better to replace with something that won't rot again?

I need mine doing, and am stuck between fibreglass and steel.

I don't like fibreglass for various reasons:
1. There is a bracket under there that holds the bumper at the front edge. Will THAT be strong enough in f/g?
2. It eventually glazes and cracks.
3. It can bubble and be difficult to paint.
4. It expands at a different rate to steel, making the area where it is bonded difficult to avoid cracks and therefore prone to water ingress and rot on the steel above it.

I would imagine no one has made them yet due to the development costs
Someone will make a fortune of it as we all will need them someday

good news thanks guys

Any update on this???

Get them made and display them at the NBO

You will sell 50+

Mine (osr) has started to bubble on my type r and seriously considering going wide arch and just cutting away the rust.

Would that be a good move?

Worked for me :lol1:

i need a pair of these asap.......... aI have the garage to do the job, just need the parts. Any news on a fixed price yet? £100 a side does sound a bit steep IMO.

any more info

Doesn't look like they are a go-er:(

I for one would think nothing of paying £100 for a rear quarter panel if it was the difference between that and scrapping the car.

Subaru were charging what? £1000 a pair?

The scoobynet regular or supplier that can get these manufactured will make a fortune

Why has no one done it yet ?

Develpment costs ?

I'm going to buy the fibreglass repair panel from scoobyclinic. Anything is better than how it is at the moment.

I can vouch for cutting out and metal replacment as Ive had mine done twice, first time it was supposed to have been all cut out and new metal fitted and both sides painted but within a couple of months the rust was back at the cost of £600 to say I was pissed was an understatment and the guy who did the job had vanished into thin air.

I ended up paying close to £1500 to have the arches done properly and the whole car blown over and the original guy had the car 2 days and when I had it done "properly" the car was awy for the best part of nearly 2 weeks and pretty much every day I went down to the garage and took photos of what was being done to make sure they knew I was serious about have it done properly and that I was going to put up with another botch job and this was done about 6 months ago and I can say the arches still look like the first day I picked it up. The guy did a cracking job and obviously had to make up the fresh panels as he went along as there was no way I could have afforded Subaru prices and didnt want fibreglass due to the bumper fixings and the bonding and cracking issues that can be inherant with fibreglass.

You will normally find that if the outter arch is rotten then this will have gone all the way through to the inner arch as well so you end up cutting a lot of metal away.

Hi Seanscob

Did you manage to repair your wheel arches. I am desperate to repair mine???

Jillykins55

There is a similar thread from KingTiger, no further posts from the OP on THAT one either.

Looks like it's a GREAT idea, but not doable?

It will be doable just not cost effective
Be honest how much work are you prepared to do for £100 quid
Your never gunna get a full body panel for that unless mass production

Just thought I'd show you some pics of the last rear arch repair I carried out, quite interesting, and worrying I'm sure y'all agree...

The car was a 1 owner from new, UK 2000.

I never had any pics before I started work, but assure me the rust spots were no more than a coulple of 5pence peices along the passenger rear arch..



Once I started to cut out, initially not looking too bad, but upon further inspection it was a lot worse..

Attachment 55210

Attachment 55211


Inside rear arch..

Attachment 55212

Attachment 55213


Behind the rear bumper..

Attachment 55214


Be careful what lurks under your side skirts..

Attachment 55215


After removal of rear quarter panel..

Attachment 55216


And the inside of the lower rear quarter panel, note the corrosion on the seams, impossible to ever get rid of unless you remove/discard them..

Attachment 55217


Hmmm, looks like there's some more lurking on the suspension turret panel.

Attachment 55218


Oh Ohh...

Attachment 55219


Complete lack of underseal from factory, and the metal work was riddled with rust..

Attachment 55220


The extent of metalwork removed to eliminate any future corrosion issues, and ready for replacement OEM panels.

Attachment 55221



Be careful with your classics chaps.. :)

hi load of work there then lol what would this cost to a customer?

Thanks

I think that would cost more than the whole car is worth?! That is massive amount of work plus the panels alone will cost i fortune i bet.

I can also add one of the reasons why the rear arches start to rust, inside the trunk between the inner wheelarch and outer arch panel they put seamsealer after the car is dipped in primerpaint, i have scraped the seamsealer off a "mint" 60000km car that was soaked in rust protective rust when it was new and behind the seamsealer there was no paint at all, and if there is no rust-protective wax between the panels they will start to rust much quicker and the seamsealer does close in moisture, so when you see some small bubbles in the paint that is probably a sign of moisture that has peneltrated the metal from the inside and made the paint bubble.

Best thing to do is to soak the inside of the arches with good rustwax when the car is new, or if you want to try to save the metal on a old car the best thing to do is to remove all the crappy seamsealer and sand all the rust away as best you can do, and then paint with good epoxy primer and then soak with rustwax. Ive done this to a Legacy, pictures in this thread: https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...on-1993-a.html

Ofcorse you still got the problem with rust between the arch lip all the way down to the sill, the best thing to do there is to remove the rubber moulding that keeps moisture in, and then clean the inside of the wheelarch and use good rust protective products there to.

I hope someone will find my tips helpfull! Remember, even if you think your car is 100% rust free in most cases its not, it just has not shown yet.

The cost was more than the car was worth, but the customer had the car from new, and reasoned that it was cheaper to repair and keep the car, rather than:

a) Buy another classic which he wouldn't know the history of, and which would also have the same problems.
b) Replace the car with a brand new car.

Neil. :)

That's the position I'm in.

Mine needs done, I wish these guys who keep on getting our hopes up would come through for us....

Mine will be going to get sorted next spring so it will last for another ten years