classic turbo 2000 uk injectors
 

anybody know about standard injectors for classic turbo 2000 uk? what are they called and are they the same on 97 & 98?

the later uk's had 440.s

so on the earlier classics 92 -98 are they grey 380cc injectors and all the same? as ive got a 4th injector code up and got someone offering me a standard set from his 98 turbo 2000 uk so must be the same as 97 turbo 2000 uk surely...?

You're correct, yes.

UK cars:-

MY94-98, grey 380s
MY99/00, yellow 440s

But 1998 was the crossover year for MY98 and MY99, so late 1998 - i.e. Sep-Dec - IS MY99, and therefore yellow 440s...

Basically, ask him if they are yellow? If not, stay away.

ok mate cheers yeah i think the 1's ive been offered are the grey 380cc's. do you know if when you get a code up for an injector like mine ie: 17 4thinjector if it means its blocked or damaged or something else so should i just replace them? just put in a new genuine subaru lambda sensor and got replacement maf coming as got codes 23 and 17 up also after i had a mobile diagnostic the guy said he got no reading from the lambda thats why i replaced that. its running ver rough ldles so low it stalls seems like its misfiring and stutters under throttle and exhaust pops, do you think this is mainly the injector causing this or the maf to?

I would think if the code is showing for an injector, then there is a problem with it, yeah.

Have you properly reset the ECU with the wires under the steering column, since changing those items? When you do this it goes through a full diagnostics check before it will reset. If nothing comes up and it resets, try driving it again...

yeah i did the ecu reset and system check with the 2 black plugs and 2 green plugs after new lambda sensor but havent got the replacement maf yet, it should come in a few days but i will do it again after putting in the maf. but as it is its undrivable it doesnt hold revs properly idles low and hesitates and stutters bad under throttle.

i just re-read what you said earlier about the injectors, its not yellow 440's i need mines a 97 turbo 2000 uk i need grey 380's i think like what he has.

i just spoke to the guy im getting them off and he said yeah they are the grey 380cc's so right for mine.

Apologies, for some reason I assumed you had a MY99 or 00. I think I'm going mad.

Yes a 1997 UK car will DEFO be 380s.

lol ok no worries i just wanted to be sure... so do you think its the main cause of my running problems because it must be like only firing on 3 cylinders when an injector fails or could the maf be causing it to? or is it hard to say, i know when things go wrong on impreza turbo's it can turn into a never ending expensive hunt and replacement of parts.

Yeah, an erratic functioning or non working inj. would defo cause rough running, As said, 3 cylinders only possibly. Does it feel/sound like 3 cylinders running?

yeah it does feel like that, stuttering and hesitating under throttle very low idle then stalls after a minute if you rev it up it tries to die or come down unless you keep reving it hard to top end of revs but you can tell its not right and cant drive it like that it wont accelerate properly so would be dangerous for other drivers.

Yeah, and prob wouldn't do the engine much good either.

Plus don't risk crashing your own car!

Patience - just reset after the MAF change and go from there....

yeah just keeping it on the drive for now and yeah will do reset once maf is on and see what codes come up.

Have you ruled out the wiring before you swap injectors? For example try swapping the injector harnesses between inj 2 and 4 and see if the problem shifts (if the problem is the injector, you should get a code for cylinder no 2, if the problem is the harness, the code will remain as cyl. no 4 - do a reset first so that you're not misled by stored codes).

Many times codes are caused by open and short circuits. The service manual only suggests changing the injector after ruling out wiring issues.

oh ok, which injectors are 2 and 4 and what do i do just swap the plugs round also is it ok to do that dont the cylinders fire in a sequence?

ok back again, the replacement maf and injectors came today. i put the maf in straight away and now it runs fine again, left it running for a while and took it for a quick drive and seems fine no idle problems and no hesitation and no popping from the exhaust at the moment, but i want to wait and see, also guna get the injectors put in on saturday. i did a system diagnostic black & green plugs then after i did a ecu reset where you put the pedal down then lift up half way and hold for 2 seconds then checked the codes but still got 23 maf and 17 4th injector maybe ill try disconnecting the battery to clear the code but the main thing is its running right and i can drive it now.

Have you reset the ecu using the black and green plugs while actually driving the car?

i connected them both first and turned on the ignition and put the accelerator down to the floor then back up to half way for a few seconds then started it up and with both blacks and green still connected then revved it up simulating driving for a few minutes keeping it under 3000 rpm but didnt actually take it out for a drive, i thought what i was doing was the same just without changing gear. after that i checked and both codes still show, but i expect 17 to show as injectors arent being done till saturday but thought 23 would go specially now the its running right again which means the maf must be good.

no you need to drive the car on the road. the way the reset works is during normal driving it tests each sensor one at a time. once the check engine light flashes constantly, stop the car, turn it off and unplug it. the reset is now complete.

oh ok didnt realise you had to drive it till the engine light stops then stop and unplug them, so i should do it again but like that and see what it says, it should just say 17 hopefully or nothing would be even better.

just plugs in the black & green plugs and took it for a quick drive, by the end of my street the engine light started flashing so i pulled over turned it off disconnected the green then did a black plug test and it just constantly flashes now so that means no faults doesnt it?

yes all clear mate

perhaps the injector code was just logged. now you have reset is properly all codes have gone. happy days!

ok cheers yeah i hope so... ill see how it feels for a few weeks then ill know if it goes back like that then itll be the injector but hopefully thats it now, i was getting pissed off not being able to drive it seeing it just on the driveway, i wasnt sure the maf would cure the problem but glad it has, because you see some people on blogs replacing everything and still not solved their problems.