Need Help PLEASE
 

Hi all and thanks for taking your time to read this, Ive just recently fitted my 2002 wrx with a fmic, all was fine for 2 days after the car drove fine, i went out to drive it over the weekend and it started up but wouldnt let me rev past 4k/rpm and sounded dog rough, a bit spluttery. on idle seemed fine, i let it warm up as usual but when i went to drive it kangaroo'd and spluttered and wouldnt rev properly. Ive checked all the intercooler pipes and the air filter pipes etc and all seems fine. If anyone has any ideas i'm all ears.

are all the silicone hoses ok ? what intercooler kit is it ?

I'm presuming you had it mapped for the front mount?

Has it been remapped to allow for the change,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=360339099696

i used this hard pipe kit.... ^
ive not had it mapped after i had the kit fitted, i was under the impression i wouldnt need mapping unless i fit bigger injectors/turbo. The car was running fine i covered over 100 miles in 2 days after getting the fmic fitted
oh and all the hoses look fine ive checked and double checked them.

Doh!!!! :brickwall

As said you need a remap after changing the intercooler location tbh mate, although it could be something else that is causing the issues. Have you fitted a Cold Air Intake with the FMIC? If so send us some pics of the Intercooler / and pipes, plus the CAI... It could be your MAF.. or practically anything else.

Rob

PS the ebay advert has a little disclaimer - "As always we recommend professional fitting and set-up".

PPS - nothing to be gained by fitting a FMIC unless you are running other modifications to make it efficient.

from wot ive heard fm ic are a bit hit and miss in terms of needing mapping sum do , sum dont !:wonder: unless it isnt even the cooler that is causing the problem of coarse

PPS - nothing to be gained by fitting a FMIC unless you are running other modifications


in performance maybe , but i dont blame people for fitting them , they look awesome :luvlove: starting to wish i got one instead of sti tm , need air splitter ,new mounts (that dont even fit ) new pipe work !! nightmare :razz:

Hi there don't drive on boost until car is mapped,you can drive on boost,but be prepare to pay big bill later of time..



Jura

Hi guys and thanks alot for your input, I have got CAI i had that fitted last year (without remap) its K&N although i changed the air filter for a smaller one as i couldnt get my bonnet closed properly with the bigger k&n (see pics) i did have the fmic fitted by proffessionals at injectors in stockport. they will be taking the car back in tomorrow at what cost to me i dont know but i just spent the last of my money getting two oil leaks fixed and my fmic bought n fitted at the same time :'( and ive tried swapping the air filters over and putting the kn back on but still the same.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/IMG_8041.jpg
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/IMG_8042.jpg
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how long hav u had induction kit on the car ? as the oils in the filter can damage the maf sensor !

Ive had the induction kit on over a year :brickwall think this could be the problem... or maybe a new MAF. Can the maf be clean to check if i need new one? would the maf show an engine management light if need new 1 or if it was dirty?

... ive had a look in it and to the eye it looks clean and undamaged.

Right so you have got a CAI, so without boring you too much (baring in mind Im no expert), your CAI will change the way that your car understands the airflow and temps. Therefore you could potentially Lean your engine, thus a possibility it could go BANG.

The MAF plays a very important role, and a dodgey one can easily expire your engine.

Going by what you have said, ie FMIC and CAI with no remap, I would think myself lucky if I havent caused serious damage.

I would certainly look into getting a MAF even if you are just borrowing a like for like MAF from another car for testing (Off boost where possible) to try and elliminate this.

THEN more importantly save for a remap.

As said there is nothing to be gained for a FMIC at your power (ok bar syling), and you should always seek proffesional help when making alterations to anything under the bonnet that affects the way the car will performs.

Modified Air intake - remap
Modified Intercooler location - remap
Modified Turbo - Remap
Modified Exhaust - Remap
Modified Injectors - Remap

you get the idea ;)

I made a list for my last car, bought them all, and installed them all at once and payed for one map....

HTH
Rob

As above,don't cut corners.Everything you are putting new/uprated part on car you will need tweak/remap...
Due this i would recommend get remap soonest as possible.



Jura

nice remap to add a few pony's ............lovely :D

Thanks again for your input, ive been workin like mad last couple of days and not had chance to get back on... I put my car back in injectors yesterday, i phoned this morning and they said its and electrical fault has shut down the car.... thats all they have said to me atm as the mechanic who working on my car wasnt in till later on. could this of been caused by a panner falling ontop of the battery and making it spark????

Any ideas how i can solve his problem. I had a car once that shut its self down into like emergency mode to save the cars engine is this a similar thing?

Ive just heard back from the garage where my car is and they are saying it needs to go to subaru to get a subaru electrician on it as they cannot find the asnwer.... all they know its some electrical fault that has shut the car down.... does anyone have any ideas? or know anywhere i can take my car in the manchester area?

Shut the car down ie not running, or the ecu has put the car into limp mode? I would take it somewhere they are experienced with Subaru's. So off the top of my head I would call Brian at CAMS (Lower Darwen) which isnt to far from you, and in the same unit is Andrew Carr, so between these two they will have it diagnosed very quickly for you.

Has the garage that has the car now plugged the car up to some daignostic device? Actually come to think of it, have you got the engine checl light on?

Rob

PS - CAMS have a low loader, dont drive it anywhere, you could make matters worse ;)

Hi Yes the car is in "Limp mode" starts but wont rev, the place i took it have got a diagnostics but are unable to find the problem :s

No engine warning lights come up at all, i think this whole problem was caused by a metal battery cover, the battery was a bit loose and the cover when i was taking it off it sparked on both battery terminals... could this of shorted something out causing it to go into "limp mode"

have you got a number for brian at CAMS??

thanks for your time

Hi

I can personally recommend Prosport in Heaton Mersey, Stockport. 0161 432 9999. They are authorised Subaru specialists and have full diagnostic facilities, rolling road, mapping etc. with years of experience. Nothing in it for me, I just think they could help you sort your car out.

Ken

Hi thanks for this, my car is currently 3 miles away from heaton mersey, i tried to phone them but they only open untill 12pm on saturday. i will be on the phone to them irst thing monday morning. Thanks again

i wouldnt of thought it was the battery cover ? hope not cos ive just got one :D

Is there not some way of resetting ecu to get out of limp mode????

As said previously better off getting mapped to be on the safeside.

Wow only 3 miles away from Prosport, how lucky is that!!

If your car is in limp mode and the engine check light hasnt come on, this sounds a little odd to me. For your car to be in limp mode, the ECU must have detected there is something amiss with the way the engine or its components are running or there could just be a simple sensor fault/failure., thus you would normally get a fault code (Engine check light).

Has the garaged tried resetting the ECU? If they havent then why not? However if they havent now and your taking the car elsewhere then ensure its not reset as this might help Prosport identifying the problem(s).

Rob

UPDATE
after a debate

I bought a tactrix cable (copy) from usa(took 1 month to come) and downloaded the ECU software and it came up wth 7 different codes , i tried to reset the ECU but it wouldn't it just came up with the same codes every time. I then had the car trailored to PROSPORT in stockport explain i had the tactrix cable and software and i had found 7 faults but i dont think any of the faults are real faults and i could not reset my ecu, and could they diagnose the problem and if possible reset my ecu. They phone me back 2 hours later to confirm what i had told them and said i needed to collect the car as they couldnt store it, i asked what they had done and they said they had run a diognostics and it came up with 7 fault codes (whitch is what i told them in the first place) i asked them why they couldnt reset my ECU and they told me they would have to look into it more but they couldn't do it that day and my car would have top be collected as they couldn't store it so i asked the original garage to collect the car, when they got there prosport said they wanted £70 for doing nothing they hadn't found the problem yet wanted paying for it. I told them in a no nonsence tone that no money would be exchanging hands if they had not done what i asked of them top start with. I then had the car taken to a garage in buxton called Autotecnica they deal with mainlyhigh performance cars they guy there called ADAM was especially helpfull and diagnosed the problem within the hour that my ecu had blown, that was the only reason it could not be reset and that was the reason for the 7 fault codes so, next day i got the car back with a fresh ECU and its been good ever sinse. The cause of the ecu to blow was when it shorted oout due to the steel subaru emblem battery cover touching both live and negatives on the battery. so todays lesson don't put anything un-nessesary ontop of your battery just to make it look good or you could pay a big price for it.

At least you got there in the end mate ;) You'll be looking for a remap next?

Yes need a remap now as the ECU bac to standrd and the cars running very lean, ive got all the gear but no idea how to remap, was going to have play with it and self teach myself but have been warned off from doing that by a few people and warned i could blow my engine, which i can't afford to replace. Any ideas where i could get a remap in manchester for a decent price?? doesn't have to be manchester but within like 25 miles i will travel to the right place if it will save me a few quid, ive also been warned not to drive it too much while its running lean as that could also do damage. any idea welcome i'm always open to suggestion :) thanks for taking your time to read this and all the best hope to hear back from anyone soon .

Andrew Carr in Preston, will travel too.

Keep off boost os the general rule of thumb mate..