Up-pipe fitting and filter question
 

Hi peeps,just a quickie.I looked through the archive but didnt find exactly what i was after.

Do you have to remove the exhaust manifold when fitting a de-cat up-pipe as i want to get parts needed ready for this weekend as im doing a up and downpipe removal.Some say you do,some say you dont!!!!



Also,sounds silly but logic tells me that if you fit a filter (cone or suchlike) that is too small it will strangle the engine of power BUT can you have a filter that is too big????just a question a mate raised at work today!

Thanks guys. 2001 uk bugeye wrx.

you don't need to remove the headers you just need to undo the engine mountings to subframe bolts an jack the engine up, the up-pipe should then come out.

Remap as well with a larger filter and de-cat up-pipe! No need to go induction kit just a panel will flow up to 450BHP - you are more likely to cause issues with induction kits

Yeh ive a map session booked end of the week so thats sorted.im gonna soak the bolts overnight too,just in case.Thanks guys.

Try and get the uppipe off without jacking the engine/loosening engine mounts. Sometimes it is possible.
You have to drop the downpipe off the back of the turbo.

+1 Harvey i got that little beauty of your's in without jacking the engine.:thumb:

I didn't jack the engine, but instead whipped the turbo off:D

I just couldn't squeeze the wider cat part through the gap:wonder:

Evening Jon,i would not have been able to go up either due to the 3 bolt flange being to big to fit past head so down was the only option for me,if you have a cat uppipe then that can make it alot more tricky:freak3:

Evening mate, once I fitted the decat up-pipe I then started to refit the turbo, only for the pipe to drop out of the bottom:brickwall, no cat makes life easy:thumb:

LOL,to right decat is a walk in the park in comparison:thumb:

The filter cannot be too big.
The ECU must be mapped for the filter in use.
Best results are obtained when the airflow from the filter to the turbo is smooth. For instance by using a spun aluminium trumpet.

Fitting uppipe.

Drop the D/P.
Undo the bolts, headers to uppipe.
Loosen but do not remove three nuts on each header to cylinder head.
Now undo the nuts holding the uppipe. 5# in total if they are all there.
Remove U/P.
If it will not come loosen the two bolts, collector to the rest of headers/cross pipe and it will fly out.
Alternative : Least preferred option.
If it will not come out with lots of twisting, slack engine mountings. Do not totally undo. Jack engine and pipe drops out.
Try to get pipe out first before undoing mountings for engine.

Thanks harvey,work now in progress and i must say all the bolts to downpipe and up-pipe have come off very easily so far so good.only buggers were the 10mm heatshield bolts.blooming things.!!!

aaarrrgggghhhhh heatshield bolts lol

My heat shield bolts were fine - at least the ones that had been fitted were:(

If you live close to the sea you will actually find that the heat shield bolts corrode quite quickly.
This is due to sacrificial corrosion.
Unfortunately lino city, Kings Lynn and such places are close to a maritime atmosphere where there is a lot of salt in the air.
Removing heat shields should not be necessary until you actually have the offending article off the car.

When working on your own car, what is worthwhile is a good spray of WD-40 or similar preparatory products the night before and the morning after while you have a cup of coffee before starting the task. Approach each fastener as a one off opportunity so ensure the socket or spanner, preferably not open ender is located on the nut or bolt on a one off opportunity before you start.