engine break in
whats the best way i thought it would be country roads but ive been told to take it down motor way few times :Suspiciou
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After some basic systems checks to ensure everything is working and nothing is leaking, I generally follow a procedure very similar to the one suggested here.
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so country rds short burst in 2nd 3rd 4th cahnge oil after 20 miles on the remap it will be a run in map i will have no boost lol
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Yes, I've seen that before and it was the subject of some controversy on here.
I can see the logic in it, in fact, back in the late '60's I used to sprint and hill climb a Mini and remember talking to a guy who did the same with an un-modified MGB who said he took it "easy" for the first 500 miles then after changing the oil and filter "ragged it" His B was noticably faster than similar (and some modified) cars. The same with a couple of guys I knew who bought similar Jap bikes. One used it hard right from the start and his finished up easily the quickest of the two. JohnD |
Originally Posted by JohnD
(Post 9720069)
Yes, I've seen that before and it was the subject of some controversy on here.
When you analyse it objectively, it is far more logical, especially for a modern, close toleranced engine, than the "old way".
Originally Posted by stef28-2008
(Post 9720021)
so country rds short burst in 2nd 3rd 4th cahnge oil after 20 miles on the remap it will be a run in map i will have no boost lol
Doing it on actuator boost is far from ideal too. Have you thought about getting your mapper to come with you, so you can start on a "safe performance" map, run it in, change the oil, and then have him put the proper one on? Incidentally, I see from elsewhere that you've got a new Enginetuner-built engine. As such they are probably the best people to advise you on running-in processes, especially if there are relevant warranty terms etc. |
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