Another blown gearbox and some questions!
 

Hi all

Was driving at 70mph on the motorway sunday night and 5th let go big style :razz:. Obviously wasn't the motorway to blame, more likely years of abuse its had :p i did find it strange how it went under basically no stress though:cuckoo:

Its an MY95 WRX RA, with the short ratio ty752 box on (correct me if iv got any of that wrong)

My main reason for posting is i want to upgrade, but not via a six speed or ppg (dont think thats even an option on the 752's)as thats just overkill on what im gonna running the car at.

So what are my options? I was hoping to maybe find a TY754 box and diff somewhere (not a UK as i suspect the ratios are very long??) Do these bolt straight on to my year WRX (1995) What happens with the speedo as mine is mechanical as appose to the later electronic ones??

Thanks in advance, ive tried a few searches but nothing specific enough came up, but links to threads would be great too :thumb:

Dan

If you go TY754 type you will need at least the box and rear diff and possibly one or both rear axle shafts. ther original front axles should be OK to transfer.

The 5th on the original box has blown because they have a very small woodruff key locating the gear to the shaft it runs on. and after a while the key wears away and the gear jumps over it shattering at the same time.

We do a mod that changes the size of the keyway and then we can fit a later 5th gear.

That won't be the low ratio 5th you have now in the RA box but will give a better cruising speed and better economy. That partricular 5th gear is hard to come by these days and it may still be available from Japan but never was in the UK.

Good Luck, call if I can help, David APi

01926 614333

Thankyou David always a massive help :thumb:

The gearbox has been playing up for a while now, with syncro problems coming and going, mainly in 3rd and 4th hence my shock at 5th going. But i suppose it would have been one or the other if 5th and the woodruff key hadnt have gone. I dont really fancy having it stripped down/rebuilt only to find out that everything has seen its best.

So i think its time to uprate (a little) mainly to have a box worth upgrading to a ppg if big power ever comes. Iv sourced a TY754 BAAA (i think thats near enough the code without looking it up) from a V5 STi with matching diff, its pricey but i think its the best way "forward" so to speak.

Just to pick your brain, and if you know.

Will i need the axle shafts for the gearbox i mentioned?

Also what would i have to do to get around the speedo problem? Or is it just like it or lump it no speedo :p

Many thanks again

Dan

david how much is that 5th gear modification, could do with a new syncro aswell

cheers steve

We tend to incorporate it into a rebuild as on its own it is quite expensive. We need to fit a TY754 secondary shaft that takes the larger keyway and then provide the modded gears and so on. Those parts are £200.00 + VAT for the conversion. Then £240.00 labour to strip and build the box PLUS whatever parts it needs to recon it anyway. Gaskets and seal kit is £36.00

Repair parts; synchros and bearings and so on, could be another £300.oo or so

ALL VAT of course.

Not for the faint hearted but it is right once done.

David

Dan, you won't need the front axles shafts, but possibly one or both of the rears.

Just swap out the gizzmo that creates the speedo signal or drive on the side of the box. They are universal and no need to worry on that score, as it is gear driven inside the box no matter whether mechanical or electronic.

David

David fitted a 754 in to replace my 752, and what those guys dont know about gearboxes isnt worth knowing.

I wouldnt do half a job- the labour alone makes it worth just getting a 754 in there.

thanks again David. Yeah i was talking about the rear axles shafts, I take it the shafts are pretty much all the same on all 754 boxes? As in, i wont need specific year/MY axle shafts to fit certain 754 gearboxes?


Thanks again guys, all a great help.

2005 onwards TY754 have one piece front drive shafts that fit right into the front diff. Where the earlier ones have a small stub shaft sticking out and the shaft fits onto it with a steel roll pin.

You can convert the later type by buying a set of stubs and some different diameter oil seals for the drive shafts.

It is the rear shafts that are a nuisance. There are equal length ones and odd length ones. We try to match the insides of the diff to the customer original shafts so that he doesn't need to buy a shaft. Not always easy, but we have succeeded so far [ and will do until we run out of rear shafts ]

lt is also complicated by the fact that some driveshafts have the circlip to locate them on the shaft and some have it in the diff. If you get a shaft with a clip it won't fit into a diff with a clip already in it.

Confused ?

David.