220 000 and going strong
 

My 'W' reg classic that does 100 miles a day to work and competes in navigation rallies is beginning to feel a bit tired. She still goes well but there is less urgency that there used to be. I either go for a Scooby Clinic stage 1 package, and end up blowing the engine, or spend a lesser amount on a decent exhaust and and getting all of the hoses, sensors and boost solenoid, so that she runs the best she can. What do people think.

I have a nice exhaust for sale if you are intrested mate

There are a few flaws in the internal logic there. For starters if the engine is losing some power, you don't know whether that's due to a tired turbo, tired engine (worn piston rings, poor valve sealing, tired injectors/fuel pump/etc) or something else.

The second point is that if you have a custom remap - whether at Scoobyclinic or elsewhere, it should be done within the safe limits of your engine, and so, you would be unlucky to blow it up. Or, looking at it the other way, if it blows up after a competently performed remap, it would probably have died at about the same point if left standard.

Not sure I fully understand the logic there either. Getting a decat exhaust will get you a little bit of a power increase. However, there is little to no point spending money on "hoses, sensors and boost solenoid" if what you have is working, because, taking items like the cam and crank position sensors and boost solenoid as a case in point, if your engine's working on what you've got, it ain't going to work significantly better on brand new bits.

About the only component under the bonnet that may benefit from elective replacement is the mass airflow sensor, especially if yours is the old, non-green stripe type.

The best thing you can do with the car at this juncture is probably to get it checked over by a good Subaru specialist or tuner. Once you have a good informed idea what sort of nick the engine is in, you can make informed decisions about whether to change anything and, if so, what.

Oh - and the one thing I would do before anything else is to touch some wood. Thread titles like this one have an unfortunate habit of being famous last words! :eek: :D

Thanks for the advice. I shall get it checked in with my local dealer for a full diagnostic check, and then decide from there.

surely that's a record :)

Would be interesting to know what has been replaced and at what intervals, over the years?
Talking to a relation of mine, he said that he had a cambelt let go on his Volvo estate just short of its replacement service of 80,000 - this would have been its 3rd! His garage sourced a "new" engine for him with a mere 120,000 on it!

JohnD

UK car, owned and enjoyed from 45000 miles. Up to 90000 it was fully serviced with new cambelt; when I bought her at 45000, and every 45k since. From 90k it has been dealer serviced, every 30k upto 180k when it had cambelt, and 60k service (this was in Jan 2010) and nothing since then. The only replacement part has been a radiator. Even the clutch is original. Considering I compete in road navigation rallys and have won some, and drive 100 miles per day for work, (30 miles of which is on side roads), I can think of no better car.
My previous scooby, 97 Reg, did 160k and I then bent a valve stem losing compression in one cylinder, playing with a TVR and a Caterham. It then did a further 15k on 3 cylinders until it failed a pre MOT emissions test and I was given £2000 from my local dealer (Bell and Colville) in PX against my current one.

Nowhere near. There was a thread about one a while ago with over 300,000 on it.:D

300,000. Wow. There's still some years left in my beast. Just over 90,000 on my bugeye. Whats The most mileage for a bugeye?

90,001.
I think I have helped mine by always carefully warming up (2500 rpm until the heater is blowing warm air) and cooling down (sit for a minute before turning off)

I always do this aswell

Obviously i cannot say it hasn't helped, as you do look after you motor.
The coolent temp on mine is up well before the oil temp (perhaps 5-10 mins before), and it is the oil temp that is the important factor (not the coolant temp) in deciding when to give the beans.:)

With a bugeye I think it's more a case of how long the owner can stand driving such an unpleasant looking car, rather than the longevity of the components. ;)

^^^^^^^:lol1:

If my diagnostic shows all is ok I may just put a better tail pipe on her for the sound and keep the rest as standard to keep her going.
Can anyone advise on a good sounding pipe, (or Cat back system), that has a nice burble, but is not to loud at low revs and cruising (my wife hates them and the amount of ear ache I would get is not worth it), but sounds good above 3000 rpm.

Perversly, it's ugliness is a major part of it's attraction!

JohnD

There's an obvious response to this that involves a reference to your wife/gf/sig other, but I'm far too much of a gentleman to go there. ;)

All three are far better looking than the car:norty:
I drive a blobeye which is only marginally better looking!

JohnD

My bug is over a 101k now when I posted it at 100k I think there was one at over 110k miles.

I have just been a complete arse and put my classic into a tree.
Damaged front bumper, grill, all lights and spots, off side wing, bonnet, broken front anti roll bar drop link, bent steering arm, bent lower wish bone.

Insurance say the car is a rightoff due to the high milage.

I intend to keep her going.

Does any body know a decent repairer in the Guldford area that can help

in the same way an English Bull Terrier is so ugly, it's beautiful, - kinda thing, eh? ;)

I sort of get the logic. :D