Bugeye Check Engine Light - erratic revs
 

Morning all.

So got back to the airport carpark after a week's holiday in the sun - picked the car up and drove it to the exit - all OK.

Pulled out onto the roundabout and the car was very juddery in first - almost like poor clutch control, this happened until I shifted to 2nd. Then looking down the engine check light had come on, and the revs felt very "bouncy"

Pulled over 200yrds down the road and in neutral, touching no pedals, the revs were hunting up and down between 1k and 2k. even when warmed up. :mad:

RAC chap duely comes out, revs it a bit and it settles down but a quick test drive felt really rough so stopped again.

He seemed to think that it could be a faulty sparkplug and/or coilpack or HT leads. but given it was silly-o-clock at night he didn't have the tools to check the boxer engine or get to the plugs!. Car got recovered and I'm waiting for it to be delivered in the next few days to the garage.

Any ideas what it could be? :wonder:

Also, when driving it onto the back of the pickup, there was some definate clutch smell - could just have been my technique getting it onto the big slope however...

car is a MY02 bugeye STI, standard apart from dump valve (I didn't put it on :eek:) and a Powerflow exhaust (with cat, and a bung)

Cheers

Ben

when was the plugs etc last changed

Ah yes, about 9k miles ago had a big 60k service, now on about 69k miles.

You need to check on the OBD II code stored on the ECU as the CEL light is on........and take it from there.

Shaun

Yep, I'll have to get the garage to do that for me, as I don't have OBD II kit.

Lamda sensor ?

Did you leave the handbrake on while parked up?

you have to connect the 2 wires under the dash and it will give you the fault code you read them like mores code dot/dash count the slow pulse for first number then the fast pulse and for the second number and you will have the code you need

Speedking: Yes it was - I think I've been having some handbrake sticking issues - but Paul at extremescoobies took it apart - looks Ok but very worn.

Playtime: I thought the morse-messages were only on classics not newage?

sorry mate my mistake is there anyone with a psi3 data monitor that can plug it into yours for you that lives close by

(can anyone help out for free )

Ah, no worries - it's being directly recovered to the garage tomorrow (C&D Motors in Cambridge if anyone know them, have done some good work on my other cars).

They should be able to take a look, but fingers crossed it's just plugs/leads/coilpack or some such. I've only had it for 8k miles so would be a bit of a downer if it were compression issues or such :(

id go with sticky idle control valve. Had this on mine when i went away this year and car was standing. A good clean of the valve cures it> if ecu cant control coz its stuck it it will keep try and send revs up and down

Where abouts are you mate? Location wise? If your local or a little bit more I'll pop over to you.

I'd got for MAF, dodgy DV or ICV myself.

Steve

Sticky iac valve, remove the valve from the throttle body (you will need a new gasket), take the valve apart and your probably find the shaft is not spinning freely, soak it in petrol to clean it right up, then lubricate the bearing and put it back together and on the car, fingers crossed it will be ok......just had this on my 2002 bug.

as above although i did without the new gasket i had to soak mine overnight to free it up

If it is the ICVS then I'd have a go at cleaning it.............the cost of a new one will make your nose bleed !! £280 plus VAt rings a bell :(

Shaun

double post

Agreed i was told i needed a new one three years ago which i refused. cleaned it and all was good for another 2.5 years til it stuck again. a good clean and all has been well since the summer

they do get pretty gunked up with carbon etc

I know this sounds really anal of me. But I just bought a new one. I think it was the motor itself that packed up on mine.

Wasn't cheap.

You think thats bad. Wait till you see how much a MAP sensor is!!!!

Steve

Thanks guys!

I'll see what the garage say tomorrow, but all good information at least I go into this informed.

I'll let you know what the outcome is!

Could be worth trying an ECU reset. Disconnect battery. Push brake pedal for 10 sec (just to drain any charge in the system). Reconnect battery.

Typically the car came off the back of the transporter and into the garage with no problems and no ECL on it :)

They've read the ECU logs and it indicates that the ICV was sticking - so they are going to pull it out, clean it up and let me know.

Here's hoping!

how hard is it to get the icv out and clean as this is like the pro im having mines going to ssc tomo to get checked

Providing the screws undo(which can be a problem the first time the removed) > the heads on the o/e screws are very soft, I replaced mine with stainless. Takes 10 mins ish to remove a good clean another 10 or 15 then 10 to replace

Best way to remove the screws is put a 8mm flat screw driver in the screw. Give it a few taps and then put a 8mm on the end of a small ratchet and give it a go.

You will need a new gasket.

Replacement screws and sizes are M5 x 20mm Hex Screw heads.

Job done.

Steve

Just got the car back from the garage. ICV all cleaned out and the ECU cleared and showing no codes after a test drive.

Charged me 1hr labour, which I thought was fair.

Good news mate.

Steve