STI V7 K&N Typhoon with Prova short inner duct
 

Hi, I am looking for a little advice...

Firstly I have a JDM '02 STI Wagon, running pretty much standard from an engine perspective. It has a decat back section and before I bought the car it was dyno'd as running about 320bhp.

I am looking to install a K&N Typoon:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...rod=69-8001TWR

And a Prova intake elbow:
http://www.japanparts.com/db/parts_detail.php?NUMBER=00013525&VOLUME=106-001-007&DEALER=1&CAR=115&MIDDLE=1&SMALL=3&MAKER=54&VOL KEY=&SEARCH_DEALER=1&SEARCH_CAR=115&SEARCH_MIDDLE= 1&SEARCH_SMALL=3&SEARCH_MAKER=&SEARCH_VOLKEY=&SEAR CH_page=&submit.x=27&submit.y=9

My thought behind this was to get more air into the engine, better sound and increased BHP. But... since reading other listings I am not so sure what I am doing is right.

• Will the removal of the Resonator/snorkel in the wing cause any issues?
• What is the purpose of the snorkel design, to smooth airflow??
• Should my car be running more power before I consider a move up to the K&N? Some reports are that this is only of benifit for cars of 350bhp+
• Can I run both these together and is this a sensible move?
• Will it be safe to do the above works without a remap (short term and no real hard driving)?

With the last point I was planning to do the above works and then take my car for a testing session at a garage with rolling road to see if I am getting any detonation and that the fuel/air mix is ok, then based on that I can look towards a remap if needed. At £75 for that it seems like a good idea for piece of mind.

Also ANY advice on good scooby garages for modding/mapping work in Herts/Beds would be appreciated.

Hope you can help and sorry as I know that there are soo many threads on the Typhoon kits on here but none seem conclusive.

Hope you can help.

Hi matey wait with induction kit until you are really going to remap or put induction kit and drive off the boost to remap.
Remap or mappers in your area is few: Slowboy racing (350£ for remap and very helpful),Duncan@Racedynamix(price is its same and is mobile and come to you),JGM(EcuTek remap 650£),Rich@fiestaboy(350£ for remap and very helpful)

Cheers for that!

Ok so humour me about remaps as I am pretty new to this...

If I get a remap (£350) that will set me car up for the induction kit and ensure that the engine is doing what it should and also enable me to increase power etc etc.

If I choose to perform more works after this point would I always have to front stump up the £350? Also I saw some threads about ensuring I own the map..

Also if I choose to flog the car and put it back to standard is putting the original map back on the car easy and would it be something I could do? So, can I somehow get off the current map prior to a remap and simply reapply it?

It kinda makes me think that if I am paying all that money I should go the whole hog and do any simple upgrades now like upgraded fuel pump/injectors?? Thoughts?

Also, looking at the 3 mappers you listed the only one which would work would be Racedynamix as I live on the Herts/Beds border so a bit trek to the other two, wierd that there isn't more around here.

Once again, thanks for the help.

i was looking at getting a resonator delete and have seen the prova item...but...it's nearly £200!!! removing the resonator and just cutting off the large area not required and sealing up with good quality duct tape might be the way to go...almost zero cost. i am looking to do this at some point...however, as you have asked, are there any consequences to changing the air flow dynamics when removing the resonator?

I managed to pick up a Prova delete this week off ebay for £50 shipped. Still feels like a heap of money for what it is but it's a lot cheaper than the price of a new one, and they are very hard to come by.

Defo going to go for the install of the K&N now with the remap. Going to try to get a before and after dyno print to see if this kit really makes a difference on a car running around 320bhp (I think). I will post the results

I saw that prova on ebay...i know very similar ones can be bought from the US for about $40...considering how much they were new, you got a good deal...still going the duct tape route ;-)

So would the Typhoon reduce the performance or are you saying that the gains are so little it isn't worth the money?

Hi induction kit is not worth the money at all(if you really want something which give you nice sound and good power,option for you is K&n panel filter,Green Cotton Panel filter for 30£)
Most people go for induction kit,if going for FMIC(front mount intercooler),as me.
From STI7 you will see easily 330-350 BHP and after this remap,for little money as decat downpipe(65£-165£),fuel pump(49£-69£) and after this you have great responsive car,i highly recommend Neil@Slowboy Racing,due all works on my car carried Neil:thumb:

Thanks for all the advice guys. Slowboy I'd love to use your services but you are simply too far away, therefore I will have to speak to Racedynamix.

I will keep you posted on progress.

Also, anyone know the purpose of the Snorkel design??

To echo what has already been said, there is no point you fitting an induction kit, let alone the elbow, at the level of power you are running. There will be next to no inherent gain, certainly nothing to justify the expense, and you may well see a net loss. Sure, if you fit the bits and then have the (pretty much mandatory) remap, you will gain power - but the power will come from the remap, not the induction parts. If anything, you are likely to experience a loss from the resonator delete. You may as well just pay Duncan for the mapping than pay for that + the other bits.

You will have to ask someone at Subaru what the original design intention was. In practice, however, aside from reducing induction noise, and helping prevent water/rain reaching the filter, the resonator reduces turbulence in the inlet air, enabling the mass airflow sensor to measure it more accurately and consistently, and in consequence allowing the ECU to calculate engine load (and hence look up fuel mixtures and ignition timing) more accurately.

Both Harvey and I have tested this in detail and independently found that removing it reduces power slightly. I think the figure Harvey came up with was a consistent 6bhp drop. I did my tests on the road and so didn't produce an exact power figure, but the figures I did get would correlate with a small loss. Without the resonator, the raw mass airflow sensor returns fluctuate markedly (and, from an engine management point of view, undesirably). This "spiky" input forces the error correction algorithm in the ECU to work harder, and also feeds through into the calculated load/mixture settings. From a mapping and engine management point of view, running with the resonator is the preferable option.