can you layer wax over a sealant??
I want to give the scoob some extra protection now that winter is on its way, I have some Werkstat Prime Acrylic left and wanted to use this and then bling it up with some carnauba wax would this be ok to do :wonder:
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yes... although layering a sealant over a wax is a no no, IIRC :thumb:
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Originally Posted by sparkytrix
(Post 9648582)
yes... although layering a sealant over a wax is a no no, IIRC :thumb:
Have people had good results this way. When I used the whole Werkstat Prime Acrylic kit I was after more of a wet look so my thinking is to use Dodo juice over the top rather than the Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger. |
I use a glaze over carlack sealent then wax on top of that with good results.
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Fine to wax over a sealant. There is a sealant out there that will go over a wax and it's a great product. Mother's Advanced Reflections Top coat. The great thing about this is you can alternate layers. Start off with the wax then the top coat, then back to the wax and so on. Build the layers up for a few weeks and you'll get great protection. I had this on my red type ra a few years back and went a whole 12 months without the need to top it up.
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Use sealant over wax meself a wk and a wash apart without problems :hjtwofing:D
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Originally Posted by 95turbowagon
(Post 9648644)
I use a glaze over carlack sealent then wax on top of that with good results.
:) |
Originally Posted by ukdave
(Post 9679046)
Use sealant over wax meself a wk and a wash apart without problems :hjtwofing:D
The sealant won't bond properly to the wax due to the molecular structure of the wax and the microscopically rough nature of the wax surface. Therefore the durability of the sealant on the wax is heavily compromised. The aesthetics won't be optimal either due to the way light penetrates the sealant layer then wax layer then paint pigment layer. It's also more likely to have smears when sealant is used ontop of a wax. |
Tried this today just on the bonnet.
First clayed to remove all the old wax. Washed and dried. Werkstat Prime applied with a dual action polisher. Dodo juice wax applied with a foam finger mitt. The results where fantastic, now the bad weather is coming in I think I will do the entire car sooner rather than later:) |
thought the werkstat prime wasnt ment to be put on by machine
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Done it both ways mate and the results are far better with the machine :thumb:
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damn cheers for that, i keep just doing it by hand as it says on the pb website not for machine use
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Originally Posted by stevey
(Post 9689302)
damn cheers for that, i keep just doing it by hand as it says on the pb website not for machine use
I find the difference between hand application and machine application is negligible and hand is faster as there's no need to tape up trims. http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...e-acrylic.html http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...me-strong.html Under 'specification' and 'How to Use'. |
Just out of interest John, how comes the prime shouldn't be applied by rotary? Is it likely to leave micro marring, trails etc? I didn't think it was that harsh?
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We always recommend use by hand - it's faster, easier, doesn't dry out as quickly and is far easier to buff off. Crucial point: always apply by microfibre pad: not a foam one.
By DA it's ok but by the time you mask off and with the more awkward buffing, it's faster by hand and the results are all but identical. You'll probably use more product by DA than by hand. By rotary, Prime (and Strong) will leave some buffer trails, the product will dry out VERY quickly (it contains no oils - it's all chemical cleaner and has no abrasive) and it'll dust like mad. You'd have to load the pad heavily too so would end up using more product. |
Thanks for that John :thumb:
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cheers for that john, it was this one that i was looking at http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...MasterZWSAK000 on the spec on the acrylic kit it shows as 'by hand only', so my appologies i wasnt looking at the spec on the prime itself
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