Orange label MAF repaired.
 

I thought I would share this tale...

My Maf failed before MoT last week so I sourced a new one via fleabay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT job done, or so I thought. The engine idled ok but was hesitant and bogged down under part throttle even after ECU reset it it gave error code 23- MAF:brickwall. A lesson learnt trying to do it on the cheap:cuckoo: Fortunately the seller seems reasonable & he will refund on return.

Now a new oem one of these is close to £400 and second hand ones, with life expectancy unknown around for £100 it got me thinking..... well googleling.... THEN I came across this on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1ap7MSk5lo you can imaging my movie excitement :sleep:

Anyway, the next day I decided to take the top of the old oem MAF:
Attachment 66252
Attachment 66253
Low and behold there was a dry solder joint exactly like in the youtube vid. Next I popped around a mate's place who is a wiz with a soldering iron, he reflowed all the solder joints we could get to & covered the circuit board in hot glue to isolate from the shield.

Popped it back in the car & it has never run so smoothy, touch wood.... Now done about 100 miles without missing a beat & no error codes:luxhello:

So if yours has failed it would be well worth trying to do a simple solder joint reflow..

top info. should help anyone out with MAF issues on a classic.

Spot on information, just saved me some money !!! Opened up the maf, and found the same problem :-)

Good call. I took the top off mine once as I thought it was suspect but it was ok. Turned out it was the loom connection. Use black silicon to seal it up again for the oem look.

Happy days, glad this helped someone else out:thumb:

Saved myself 300 boof and done it myself. Awsome info find!!!