Searching for Intercooler thread to get current thinking for a 2.5
 

I've just done a search on intercoolers and got 100s of hits.

Anyone know where I can find experienced opinions on quality FMICs to use with 2.5 STI engines running 400/450 (V-power) with an MD321T? There seem to be bits and pieces scattered all over. I'm having difficulty finding a consolidated thread!

Just PM Harvey Smith. He posts on here as harvey. He doesn't just sell them and have huge stocks, he also offers advice BASED ON HIS RESEARCH and has done loads of tests on this sort of stuff.

He will also fit it or offer advice and help for you to do it.
Job done;)

Another one for Harvey, top bloke, knows his stuff and fast delivery. Got my hybrid fmic off Harvey, nice bit of kit and easy to fit. :thumb:

Cracking, thanks

harveys your man , i would't use anyone else

Been checking his site From what I've read, his intercoolers appear to do the business. His prices appear almost too good to be true! the RCM intercoolers are nearly 3x the price of Harvey's which seems a little odd.

Don't be fooled by price: three times dearer doesn't necessarily mean three times better;)

I am a fellow enthusiast and my hobby has developed into a small business. Anything I have is probably something I have required for tuning and modifying my own Subarus (Four on the road at present). My two main products are intercoolers and headers, tubular and ported with associated uppipes and while I do have other products/components like ACT guages and turbos it is headers, uppipes and front mounts that I concentrate on (along with modification packages) As I am not greedy I am happy to send these out to fellow enthusiasts at very modest mark up.
For your interest the Hybrid GTs on two of my cars outperform the APS FMIC on my STi 6 Wagon and this has been commented on when the car has been on the rollers at Steve Simpson's and during mapping with Bob Rawle.

As you can tell...Harvey is your man when it comes to detailed advice on these things.

A useful thread with useful advice from Harvey

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...oler-test.html

Harvey is your man for this and no one knows their own products better than Harvey as already said he has tested equipment over and over again in different environments which gives you the buyer the benefit that what your buying is suitable/compatible and value for money.

I've got one of Harveys FMIC's on my 2.5 classic and cant fault it in anyway

Thanks guys. Steve. I had forgotten all about that thread. Takes some reading and we havn't had a bun fight like that for a long time. Let us see what Seddomyster comes back with.

Harvey,

Just been looking at the aforementioned thread of 'lively debate' and saw the following link to Andy F:

http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/27032.html

While your FMICs are superior performance, the link suggests that my STI TMIC will be more than adequate to cope with my power goals (idling/low speed heatsoak notwithstanding). I'd hate to remove a perfectly servicable part if it's capable of supporting the mods. What do you think, would it be impossible/illogical to retain my STI TMIC?

Don't forget that that's on AF's drag car, where it's on full chat for only a 1/4m at a time....

With a 321T you have 450 bhp.
What TMIC are you running at present and what TMIC do you intend to run?
At that point I will be able to give you an indication of what ACTs you might experience but rather than believe me, just invest in an air charge temperature guage £85 posted and you can have it tomorrow and you can see for yourself what ACTs you are achieving.
I can simply tell you that at 392 bhp on an STi 8 top mount I was experiencing temperatures up to 43 degrees C. and I then swapped to a Hybrid GT front mount. 401 bhp out the box and 410 bhp after mapping and ACTs down to 21-23 C. on full throttle runs during mapping on the rollers and it was on a slightly warmer Winter day.
That is an actual example that was carefully observed by others and there were no other changes to the car.
However, as I said you don't have to believe me just invest in an air charge temperature guage if you have any reservations as to the accuracy of this information and report your findings back here. A top mount may perform after a fashion at 450 bhp but it will not be efficient and high air charge temperatures are not what your engine wants and you are losing potential power.
By the laws of physics and nothing to do with my testing for every four degrees C ACT rise you lose 1% engine power. I don't really see how anyone can defend the use of a Subaru top mount as being the best way to go at big power applications other than for short sprints.

Blimey harvey, you have a lot of patience keep typing that (illuminating) info out time and again for members' benefit - very selfless.

Or do you copy and paste the main body of text each time? :D

Sounds like I can save £85 and just take your word for it, thank you. Looks like I'll have to give away my TMIC afterall :cry:

If you have the least doubt as to the veracity of what I am saying, don't take my word for it, fit an air charge temperature guage, find out for yourself and report the information back here. The information you gleen from an ACT guage, as many others can confirm, is very interesting so your £85 investment is not wasted.

No Joz, I answer each post individually.

I've recently fitted on of Harvey's act gauges, it was easy to do, (except for mounting the actual gauge, but that was my fault as I'd decided I wanted it in a particular position that necessitated cutting a hole in the clocks surround. It's the chewiest plastic I've EVER come across and NOT easy to cut. Anyway, I digress).

The act gauge is VERY interesting. I can watch inlet temperatures fall as I drive, often BELOW ambient temperature. On one occasion I drove a couple of miles to a local supermarket, noted the gauge at 21 degrees and when I came out, half an hour later, it was at 43 degrees! Obviously, the engine bay had heated the air already IN the inlet.

Within a mile or so it was back to 20 degrees.