Differences between Ver7 sti short engine and Ver 5-6 sti short engine....??
 

Hi, as listed above...
I searching a new short engine for a classic impreza turbo UK type without changing turbo or mapping of the car but still need a more strong block.
Well searching after the 2.0lt sti EJ207 engine and find out that there are two different version as listed in the Roger Clark online shop:
1. Version 7 short engine WRX-STI 2.0 EJ207 cost 2.100
2. Version 5-6 short engine WRX-STI 2.0 EJ207 cost 3.350 (As fitted P1)
What is the difference on these above blocks? Can these both fit a classic UK turbo model 1999?

Thanks

I am also interested in which engines are a direct swap (physically/mechanically) for a stock UK MY99 engine.

You can fit the short engine from any year car into a UK car, as long as you get the correct thickness headgasket.

In regards to a complete engine, that is a completely different ball game and frankly the simple answer would be a UK engine from a 99/00 car.

Banny

The ver 5/6 was an open deck block, internals are not as strong as the semi closed decked new age blocks.
Between the 2, the new age block is better.

Tony:)

V1 or 2 engine, fully closed.

What's the difference between short engines and i guess "tall" engines? What are the pros and cons?

Thanks,
Sam

Call me, l'll sort you out with MUCH better prices than those above.

David APi

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As I understand it, a short engine is just the block, crank, pistons, rods, sump and thats about it... a 'tall' engine includes the heads, ancillaries like water pump, air con, power steering, inlet manifold perhaps turbo, part of the exhaust maybe etc depends on the exact one, but generally short engines are without heads and tall or long engines (not sure myself which is the correct term - perhaps wide given the flat 4 layout :lol1:) also include the heads.

Short engines will as said above be compatible with most if not all existing setups if the right head gasket is selected - however if you change the displacement then it will need setting up again. Swapping a 2.0 short engine for a 2.5 short engine will run very lean until re-mapped to suit.

Short engines are generally easier to move between cars - its the heads that are the clever bit and they are model dependant for plumbing / wiring etc so its often easier to keep heads and just replace the short engine so you don't have to re-wire / re-plumb the whole car

Hope that helps a bit

Yes and most have holes in them due to the internals being crap :lol1:
Pistons on the early sti and version 2 sti are not as good as the later version 3 onwards, which are not as good as the new age, plus the rods are a big weak spot on the classics, they all share the same crappy ones which let go, hence most people say dont go over 350bhp, thats the main reason (they can and do let go lower than 350bhp but its rare so 350bhp is a nice limit), just dont go with the advice on someone who say's a classic engine is reliable with 400bhp going through it on standard internals :lol1:
I should also note that the best crank is the twin scroll (not version 9 as there was no version 9 car) crank which is crossed drilled and nitrided, hence why you see people using these on rebuilds and not the standard one ;) (jap only btw, not uk cars)

Tony:D

Brill! I'll be booking it in soon enough for those mods we discussed many months ago Dave lol - just waiting for that damn inheritance to get in my account (banks/solicitors being incompetent :rolleyes:). But it is imminent... ;)

Dave, do you employ Pat as your resident mapper?

Sorry OP, for the mini hijack. :(

Short engine; in Subaru terms is a built up block with crank, rods, pistons and rings, assembled. No sump, no oil pump, nowt else.

Tall engine; is a built up engine with heads on, cambelt fitted, but no accessories.

Tall engine, dressed; is complete ready to fit.

David

Pat is our resident mapper.