Fuel pump relay problem
 

rite about a week ago my car wouldnt start, i put the fault down to the fuel pump relay which i changed, plugged the relay in and the car started straight away no probs, then yesterday went for a drive all was well then stopped the car for a few minutes went to restart but wouldnt ! Couple minutes of trying and it burst into life couple yards later it stopped again ! this time i couldnt restart it. To get it home i put voltage to the rear plug under the rear seat to get the fuel pump running to get home. Today i received yet another fuel pump relay ! plugged it in and nothing car turns over fine just wont start. Ive checked the voltage at the rear plug under the seat but nothing there also checked the voltage in the cables that plug into the fuel pump relay but no voltage there either !! Has anyone got any ideas as to what it could be ? As its really bugging me now, also changed the brown square relay under the dash aswell but still nothing !!!

ideas greatfully received

cheers chris

check the wire's coming from the o2 sensor a mate's had burnt through on the up pipe and was causing the same fault

just checked matey all wires are in good condition !

HELP LOL

what year is bud

i would think its probably fused some where before the relay. Have a good look at the main fuses

all the main fuses in the engine bay are fine, went to start it about 30 mins ago and just by luck it started ! while revving the car the revs were dying down pretty quick as if something is loose somewhere ie my foot was still depressing the throttle when the revs died, but then on tick over the car died again, and wont start again :(
Any ideas which cables i need to look at ? ie which supply the voltage to the relay !!

99 t plate matey uk turbo

i got a very similar problem to this changed fuel pump, fuel pump connectors all good, now the garage getting a sparky to have a look tomorrow mine was intermittent ie. happened 2 weeks after i bought it then happened 2 weeks after that. should know tomorrow what caused it on mine after sparky has looked at it and will let you know

have u checked the ground for the ecu? earth thats bolted to the back of the manifold near the washer bottle???

Cheers matey :thumb:

no matey i havent will have a gander first thing in the morning :thumb:

have a look on www.jollygreenmonster.co.uk

the pin out for your 99my is connector b134 pins no: 1* or 21 (1* is if you have factory immoiliser)

with ignition on voltage should be 0 with ignition off it should read 10 -13

rite just been out to have a look ... Ive got voltage to the relay 11-12 volts ! but nothing to the connector block under the seat ! on closer inspection of the connector block it looks like on one connection its sorted or something as the 2 connectors where slightly melted together from memory its the thick black cable !

I had the same problem a while ago, thought it was the fuel pump,so bought a walbro. Prior to fit the new pump, I took the car to a friend of mine who's a mechanic, he then found out that it was to do with the immobiliser, then bypassed the wire from the pump to the immobiliser box under the dash, it was fine since.(mine is MY99 Uk turbo with Ecutek):cool:

that is another common problem while ur down there you may as well replace the connector block and check all wires are intact and not corroded. also check the ground for the ecu as if i can remember rightly when i tested that block for voltage i never got any at it but that still wasnt the fault!

Just a quick one,

Where is the fuel pump relay located and where did you get a new one from, as mine is doing the same, but sometimes cutting out while driving them 2sec later it comes back to life,

just ordered a new pump as well

if your sitting in the car as if ur going to drive its behind the airvent above ur right knee! ul need to get to it from under the dash i had to remove the fuse box to get access the isnt much from in there. once u have done that u will see up on the A pillar 3 relays the first white relay is(fuel pump relay) just undo the connector and pull the relay out its on a C clip

cheers for that, if it was faulty, would if affect the battery volts,

where can you get a new one from as i have phoned around and cant find any

help again lol

i have removed to lower dash but still dont know what am looking for, i tried to take some pics to help. pic 2 and 3 are looking up from the pedals

Attachment 54010

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...4042010127.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...4042010126.jpg

Attachment 54011

your looking for one of these matey http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...4042010221.jpg

I managed to get at it without removing the fuse board if you get your head far enough down in the foot well and look behind where the fuse board would be and up you should just see it.

As for getting a new relay, try your local automotive supplier like i did, i also bought some spare ones of ebay that came with a spare fuse board from a uk turbo.

Just to confuse myself even more was messing around with cables under the dash etc this morning to no avail ! Came back outside 20 mins later cranked it and hey presto it started and seems to be running fine took it for a quick spin etc.

cheers for that, shall have another look around, So which need changing?.

that looks like in the 1st pic on the right hand side, them 2 round things

as promised mate i thought i would post the outcome of the auto electrians outcome on mine so here goes :

possible crank shaft sensor wiring (possibly shorting)

however the garage are going to just replace this for me but as there was a problem with the windows not working and this is still the case they are arranging for another auto electrician to come and fix

i hope by changing the fuel pump relay yours get sorted as your head must be just as boxed as mine is at this stage

its frustrating but at the moment in my case i have no option but to continue letting the garage sort as only had the car around 5 or 6 weeks and they fixing it foc

getting lost now,

as you say its the bottom relay on here, and on another thread someone is saying its the middle one,

rang subaru and they was not much help lol

scrap that, its deffo the bottom one as the car wont prime without it plugged in,

just finding it bloody hard too find someone with stock, subaru want £23 for one which they need to order, and local spare shops wont touch it, even tried Honda, Mazda, and mitish as they all us the same part,

there are 2 fuel pump relays on a esrly classic they look like silver barrels one is to prime and the other is to run you can test these with a regulator tester or by holding them and turning the ignition on the first one will click when ig is on and then the second one will click after cranking and fire up

cracking,, even more testing, just need this up and running before end of may to sell the bloody thing,

starting to lose my rag now, its great when it works and crap when it dont, got to the point now where is really draining the battery, bloody loaded car up with crap to go to the skip and got there and it wouldnt bloody start when done lol, had to get a jump start, anyone one a cheap 300bhp scooby lol

Hi mate I had the same problem last year. I went through loads of web sites.

I had just filled up and gave it some down the duel carrage-way the went round the round about and it cut out. It started but then cut-out even when I pressed the acclarator. I ended up getting a tow from my mate home where it sat for a few weeks.

I found it was the relay on the immoblizer. I had some circuit diagrams (which didn't show the immoblizer) but when I traced the wires from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump (Black with yellow stripe I think) they went behind the dash instead of straght to the pump and also were cut and joint to a black wire (to the immoblizer I think).

What I ended up doing was put in a link wire between the two joints in the loom and hey presto I got my car runing. the temp fix is still working!

Hope that helps. Oh my is a classic wagon V reg turbo 2000.

Anty questions pm me.

MOrning all,

Well the relay died last weekend, and had to replace with new, got subaru deliver one to me, and had chance to fit it last night,

well took it for a 30min drive, and it only cut fuel like twice, then drove great afterwards, and when left ticking over the car was sitting at 14v ish all the time where normaly it was dropping down to 12 and below,

Not had time this morning to see if the car would start again, but will see tonight when i get home, but i did notice that there is to much bloody oil in it, so will drain some out tomorrow morning, dont know how that has happend as ive not but any more in it, but cant say if the bloke who did my gearbox has.

Time will tell

as for chasing wire to immoblizer, am really crap at that and fault finding lol

well after doing all that it was still playing up, got told its the alternator not charging right, as there is no charge going into the battery when idle or slowing down, thats why its jumping around and cutting out as the battery doesnt have enough power to do everything,

well i forked out and got a brand new allternator

and its still bloody playing up,

really getting pissed off now, volts keep droping and some times the fuel cuts out, i cant even go and fill the car with fuel as everytime i have it wont start again on the for court

Havin the same problem on the forecourt, no turn over, just dead, but if I re-arm the alarm itting in the car, sit for 5-10 minutes and disa-arm. it will fire up...