AMAL VALVE (Turbo stutter)
 

Hello they’re :)

What symptoms are there when an amal valve goes wrong?

My car is running fine and pulling hard up until about 3000rpm depending what gear im in, then all of a sudden I hit my head on the string wheel lol and it sound like my turbo is stuttering.

When I put my foot down it runs fine then stutter cough and loses all power, it’s a really wired thing to explain. If I only put the throat slightly down it runs and drives fine and will rev to the limit, but as soon as I put my foot down that’s when it happen?:mad:

My m8 said it my ecu it needs a remap coz it’s a Subaru fault, and another m8 said that its my amal valve?

Any ideas will be most helpful and thanks for looking:thumb:

Lol, would you be of a Fordish persuasion by any chance? We call them boost control solenoids round here. ;)

What you're reporting sounds exactly like emergency fuel cut secondary to overboost. Without you telling us what model (and year) of car you have and at what sort of boost pressures you are experiencing this phenomenon, it's impossible for us to give you solid advice - or indeed to tell you which, if either of your mates is talking sense.

If you have a standard car running standard ECU code, without any manual boost controllers, piggybacks, boost clamps or other devices, the likelihood is that your boost control pipework, or the solenoid, is gummed up with vented oil - although it's certainly possible, especially with an older car, that the solenoid itself is starting to get sticky.

There's loads written on the topic of solenoid cleaning, so hit Search and see if there's anything there useful to you.

thanks for ur post m8:thumb:

lol ya my m8 is a ford fanatic lol


I have a 2000 turbo my99 and its blue lol :) . i got the car over 2 years ago with a broke enine.
I have only just got the car running again. the car was standard apart from yellow injectors.

when i put the car back together i put a front mount on a k&n and decat down pipe. it got over sized pistions .50 and 1.6mm head gaskets.
thats why my m8 said i needed a remap!

Yes you probably do need a remap given that spec. The front mount intercooler is, on balance, a waste of money assuming the car is otherwise standard. Aside from the fact that you simply don't need it at this power level (the top mount is more than adequate), it's presence causes issues that ideally need to be mapped around, but, worse, it has forced you to fit the cone filter, which is doubly undesirable on a 99-00 car.

You're likely to find that the cone has knocked the mass airflow calibration out, which is bad (sometimes dangerous) for mixture accuracy, and may also be leading to vibration damage to the sensor.

Why does it have 1.6mm head gaskets, have the heads/block been skimmed, or have you used non-standard pistons(etc)? Correct gasket thickness for an EJ205 is 0.6mm or thereabouts - so if the pistons and deck/head heights are otherwise standard, you've got the wrong HG's and will have dropped the CR a bit as a result.

From what you've said it'd certainly be worth putting it in front of a specialist, if not a full-blown mapper in order to find out where it's at and work out the best way forward.

Oh i c!!!!

I have got 1.6mm head gaskets because that's what API said and supplied me with. My pistons are oversized but that’s it. So if I got big head gaskets that means im down on power, so do I wind the boost up a little bit 2 compensate?

So the best thing I can do is put it back 2 standard, put my air boxes and top mount back on and c how it runs?

deleted boost pill pic

sorry disregard that im gettin mixed up lol that would be low boost , check to see that u have the actuator pipe pushed in correctly and i agree that its the fuel cut u are hitting due to the bosst getting to high , think the fuel cut kicks in at about 1.2 bar roughly but varies , i wouldnt UP the boost if u are hitting the fuel cut , either get a fuel cut defender ( have one if u need one £60 posted brand new ) but honestly speaking i would check out that everythings plumbed in correctly etc before u go doing things like that and as for the head gaskets i doubt api would put 1.6 in if they were not needed , ur cylinder heads have probably been skimmed before or they did it themselves hence the larger gasket to make up for the skimmed material .
splitpin normally makes sense on his posts , not always the info u like to hear ( cost wise ) but otherwise good info nonetheless

how much is a remap and where is the nearest 1 to portsmouth and what does it involve?

the thing is tho i dont want to get all the way to where ever it is and they start doing their witchcraft and they cant sort it out coz theres something wrong, it dont just need a remap....

so if i put the top mount and air box on it should be stardard and therefore run right, and if it dont i no there something wrong.

will putting the fuse in the fuse box flash a code for the fault i getting???????

Get it up to a local subaru specialist and get them to check it out - be much easier in the long run rather than diagnosis via internet forum which is notoriously sh**e.

Subaru4U are local to you I believe and Len there will be able to say whether there is an underlying issue.

Remaps for your model year range are about £550 from ecutek dealers or an aftermarket specialist ecu such as Simtek which is around £1000 fitted and mapped.

Sounds like boost cut, get a boost gauge on it and see how much boost your running.

just put a autometer boost gauge on and its fine until about 4psi then the boost starts to flutter and when reaching about 3000rpm the boost is fluttering from about 9 psi to 13 psi roughly,
does tht help on curing it?

thanks for help
alan

also the boost gauge doesnt show any vaccum it's installed in the pipe to the compression side of the turbo???
or where is the best place to install the boost gauge pipe on the engine?

thanks
alan

Did you establish why the previous engine failed?
You maybe building it again if not careful.
Maf is a weak point on 99 and would be worth getting that checked along with a remap.
Standard injectors are yellow by the way.
Simon

the previous engine broke because of bad maintenance and it spun a shell.
to morrow im going to put it all back to standard.

oh and thanks for info on the yellow injectors :)

I'd be inclined to run your boost gauge directly from the manifold if there's a spare nipple? If not then T it into the vac line for the fuel pressure reg - much safer.

With it currently T'd into the vac line from the compressor to the w/g, then that's just another potential area for any one of the 3 hoses to that T to pop loose, and you don't want that! Esp. as you already have another! T-piece in that section of pipe! (for the the 2-port BCS). So, as it stands, you have 6! possible connection joins that could fail (rather than the OEM 3).

...and you think adding a potential leak to the fuel pressure vac line is better :) :D ;)

use the dumpvalve line for the boost gauge, if there is not a spare.

Simon

Damn! you're right. I knew there was a third vac line - but had a brain block! Couldn't recall for the life of me what it was lol. :brickwall That's why I said fuel reg one lol - but knowing full well it wasn't ideal :( (indeed, it's prob just as bad an option as BCS hoses, as you say! :D :Whatever_).

Dump valve, of course! :cuckoo: :Whatever_

My only defence is the time of day! :lol1:

lmfao

99/00 should have a spare vac takeoff at the front of the inlet manifold, just along from the DV line, sealed by a rubber cap.

Teeing it into the boost control pipework is a majorly bad idea, as aside from being on the wrong side of the throttle plate, the extra pipework volume caused by the presence of the gauge will itself muck about with the boost control.

thank chaps
I aint got round to putting it back to standard.... but it that the reason why its fluttering because i got it in the wrong place?

lol i have put the vacuum pipe in the right place now thank to a little help:thumb:
when it boosts it gets to 8psi and stays there, the engine is jerking and struggling and don't want to go any faster........ but if i ease of the power to about 4psi the car will gradually go faster and will rev to the limiter ??????

does that make any scene to any1 :wonder:
alan

saw something very similar today - fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator perhaps.....?

It could be that you're only getting raw wastegate pressure (as if the BCS solenoid was not working).

For starters, is the restrictor pill still in place? It should be in the section of vac hose, going immediately from the comp nipple, to the T-piece for the 2-port BCS...


http://www.scribd.com/doc/104227/How...m-Works-v11-01


http://www.cobbtuning.com/images_pro...stSystem_2.jpg

I would bet this isnt a boost control issue

True, I agree - a BCS fault doesn't really fit in with this does it:-

Just trying to exhaust possibilities (however improbable)...

i put a boost gauage on the BSC line on the turbo side and thats when the gauage flutters... so that says to me that the BCS is not lettin the air flow properly its like its sticking, not letting the turbo do it whichcraft???????

no that's the BCS bleeding air off and not to adjust the actuator / wastegate and therefore keep the boost level where the ecu asks it to

the issue with the car is not boost control related.. the issue is spark or fuel related, most likely maf sensor and probably why the previous engine failed.

Simon

just came up with the best idea in the world lol
just got some duck tape and tapped up my k&n filter and left half of it untapped...
and it ran so much better.

so stopped for a quick pit stop at the side of the road and put some more around!
the is only quarter of the k&n untapped and it runs even better, i no its a a bad way to do it but it saved time and me braking something putting it to standard.

so thanks "Splitpin, johngoulding, dynamix, 172sport, joz8968 and Jolly Green Monster for all your help.:luxhello::notworthy

so the next step i think is to buy a new MAF and put my air box back on. what do you think? but will a remap sort that out??? have you ever had that "Jolly Green Monster" the full time mapper :thumb:

So either the k&n is allowing too much air in.. or the maf has failed or is failing and by restricting the air filter you are causing the maf to read high with the restricted flow and it is therefore then fuelling better.

Simon :)