Car Cuts Out At When Stopped... :(
 

Hi Guys,

Here is the problem which has happened a few times now: When i'm on a bit of a run, say around 10-15 minutes without stopping, when I slow the car to come to stop at a set of traffic lights, the revs drop and the car cuts out? I can keep the car running by keep pressing the accelerator but as I let off, the revs drop to 0.

I'll then restart the car and it will tickover fine :confused:

Any ideas what could be causing the problem?

Thanks in advance for any help :thumb:

im having that problem too. ticks over. then when driving it wont idle. anyone got any ideas????

have you had any mods

Only thing connected to the engine which isn't standard is a titanium exhaust (it is only from the cat back though).

It never used to do it, only started over the past month or 2.

It's a 98 Type R if this will help :)

does ur speedo still work?

Yes, works fine :)

have u done a engine fault code check?

Coolant Temp. Sensor?

As above, check the ECU for any fault codes. Even if you get no codes, the CTS is only about £27-30...

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...odeDefinitions

CTS code is: 21 (i.e. 2 long flashes; 1 short one)

Faulty cam sensor?

Yes, and that too ^^^

Thanks for the help guys :)

I haven't done an engine fault code check yet, so i'll take it down to the garage to get 1 done.

You can do it yourself...

how

Yeah I just read the scoobypedia links you provided... There were no faults present!

On one hand that's good news... on the other it don't help you much.

Do you have a specialist near you that would be happy to take a look at the problem...

Not sure what model vehicle you have but I had a similar problem about a week ago and this is how I sorted it on my96 classic WRX.
On top of the engine inlet headers (passenger side) is the "Idle control valve" http://store.ncrally.com/catalog/images/22650AA034.JPG
....it's a creamy grey plastic colour with a grey plug going into it and with two Phillip's head screws fixing it in place (for adjustment). This is what your going to be looking at;
1. Disconnect the negative battery connection first.
2. Remove the plug from the "Idle control valve".
3. Unscrew the two Phillip's head screws and then lift off the valve(it's magnetic so you will feel it resist slightly)...underneath is a metal pole type thing.
4. Spray the pole thing with brake cleaner and brush lightly with a wire or preferably brass bristle brush. Then dry off & wipe.
5. Spray brake cleaner into the magnetic part of the valve that you have taken off and wipe clean. Even if it look's clean!
6. Positon the valve back in place and move it ever so slightly (mm's) anti-clockwise from it's original position. Then screw back up tightly.
7. After the battery has been disconnected for atleast half an hour re-join the valve's plug making sure the contact's look good first....then re-attach the battery terminal.
8. Turn on the car and after letting it warm up take it for a longish drive starting slowly at first.

Hopefully this will sort your problem...it took me a few attempts moving the Idle control valve around a little at a time before the idle reached what I was happy with. First time my idle was too high, but not stalling coming to a stop so I moved it back towards it's original position and this lead to it stalling again:brickwall. You only have to move it small amount's for a noticable difference. Hope that this has helped some of you out. Worked for me...it's free to do...so let me know how you get on.:thumb:

Thanks for that mate, i'll give it a go & see how I get on :)