What Fails First?
 

94,500 miles now and not a problem.

Classic MY00 and 1 owner since new.

Alarm is bleeping at me - so, battery needs replacing.

Service items get replaced as and when, even they last forever.

So, what would the sensible money be on failing?

The MAF maybe? Lambda? Turbo?

It will shock me if, and when, something goes bang.

So, as a bit of fun ..... what's your best guess?

in my case its been the bigends on both my scoobs

So far the gearbox, twice. :(

On a 2000 wagon, not abused or modded? Rear and front shocks, possibly clutch, maf sensor, lambda sensor.

MAF or Lambda, or, maybe, fuel pump.

The tricky thing with the MAF is that it may be subtly (or otherwise) degraded now - if you don't monitor the output on an ongoing basis you don't see them going in the early stages, and neither will the ECU.

Same applies to the lambda sensor, although with less potentially destructive consequences.

Wheel bearing(s)?

I second clutch or shocks. In my experience the engines are good for as many miles as you want to put on them, if you look after the car and dont rag it everywhere.

rear diff

knocklink ;)

KockLink :lol1:

My car is driven by someone who doesn't need such Random Light Generators ;)

Interesting replies .... I hadn't thought about the shocks.

The Clutch is still going strong, then again I do drive like I own it - not like I stole it!

The hips or the kneees

cant count the bladder cos that went years ago :lol:

Pete, for you its probably the wiper blades :lol1:

Tony:D

Header tanks going brittle.

Header Tanks??

WTF are those!

The tank on the coolant system were you top up the water.

I see ..... understand now.

So, that may leak due to brittleness?

Mines had been into have a samco coolant set and various other hoses fitted. A couple of days later the fitting to the rear of the tank broke off. Now this could have been the fault of the garage overtightening the new hose but they said they kept spare tanks as this was a regular thing in the older cars. ( mines is 1995 )

I suspect that the garage is telling porkies ..... they were too rough and broke it, saying, "They all do that Sir on this model" made you buy one of their new ones!

Not only would they have supplied me a new one, they would have fitted it free AND given me some compensation! But then, that's me - I take no prisoners :D

2nd that and mines only done 32k

explore:-

Have you owned since new?

If that MAF is original I can guarantee you the only place that will run reasonably well is on a standard MY00 classic with an AE802 ecu. Possibly due to MAF crapness the map on the 2000 cars was set up richer than on the 1999 cars with AE801 ecu (and therefore a leaning off of the mixture is less noticable/dangerous).
Put a new one on, reset the ecu, and.....maybe the mpg will go down in your case with no other appreciable benefits.
Kevin

Not sure if I am alone in being confused by that post? :wonder:

The MAF is original - and running fine and dandy .... they only seem to fail when someone messes about with the Induction side of the engine, left well alone they run forever - as can be seen by mine.

So, if I put a new MAF on and RESET - I will get worse mpg figures and not notice any benefits at all?

I guess you are saying keep my working MAF - as there is no point replacing a good MAF with a new MAF? Which is pretty much what I thought myself. :wonder:

SSU's car will have the sturdier metal header tank, which you should also invest in when the plastic one splits next.

I had a 95' classic WRX - Fuel pump went at about 60k miles, sold it and one of the pistons went with the new owner:cry::thumb: